mcd#9 gut adjustment?

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  • #40426
    ngcmcn
    Participant

    Been going through my trusty old freebie #9 that has dropped alot of grass over the years and has always run sweet as pie. I’m loathe to mess with it but things do wear over time and need repair. So my question to folks is: has any one ever done any adjustment on the transmission gears (shimming) between the pinion and ring gears or on the wheels to get some of the slop out, It seems to me they all kind’ve work together? Every thing else has been gone through. Bushings, wrist pin etc. would be curious to know what folks have done. Going for the haybine knife set up, new yoke pins(machined) oh and yes the 8 coats of spar varnish on the pole. 320 grit scuff. Maybe i’ll varnish the rust too.

    thanks

    Neal McNaughten
    unity, maine.

    #51512
    Does’ Leap
    Participant

    Neal:

    No answers for you – sorry, just questions reading your post. I just bought a #9 that seems to be in pretty good shape. I have to replace the oil seal on the drive shaft, sharpen knives and adjust the cutter bar, etc. Can you elaborate on the haybine knife set up? The mower came with two sets of knives, one serrated and one not serrated. What are the advantages with the haybine knife set up? Do you use standard guards?

    Thanks.

    George

    #51515
    near horse
    Participant

    Hey George and Neal,

    old freebie #9

    Neal – That’s just not right! Seriously, I haven’t done any shimming either but just how sloppy is the mesh btwn gears? Just curious.

    Some others on this site have mentioned that you can replace (and some Amish do this as well) the original single guards and their ledger plates with the double guards from a NH haybine – I don’t have the haybine model number but somewhere I have the part number. I too was going to refurbish my bar w/ these guards but they want about $22 a pop at my NH dealership- it ends up being about $220 to redo my cutter so I’m rethinking it. I’m just not that excited about trying to get the ledger plates off my original old guards and replacing them. They are riveted in and I can’t see an easy way to get them out (or in for that matter).

    The haybines usually run a top-serrated knife sections as opposed to smooth. The smooth sections are meant to work with the ledger plates (they are sort of “serrated”).

    So – if you’re a traditionalist and want everything original, then you need to go with the smooth sections (still available) and single guards and ledger plates. If you are more interested in functionality, then changing guards and going to serrated sections might be the way to go. Serrated sections are not usually resharpened like smooth ones althought you can knock off some burrs if they occur.

    Just recently I picked up a nice #9 from the plowing bee I went to and the former owner said everything on the cutter bar can be replaced with parts from a IH Cub belly mount mower – I have to get the model # to double check but I’d never heard that before.

    Also, the same guy has a real nice rubber tired #9 w/ a 5′ bar he’s selling. I would have bought both but I couldn’t swing that. Tires look brand new – Michelins. I try and post a pic in the gallery.

    #51513
    Does’ Leap
    Participant

    Geoff:

    I would be curious about the model number for the NH sickle bar. We spend a small fortune on hay each year so I am willing to invest some money in my haying equipment if it will improve functionality (love those write-offs). If anyone else has any comments regarding the new sickle bar and any other improvements I should consider. Don (if you’re tuned in), I seem to remember you posting something about new sickle bars but can’t seem to find it in the archives. Also, don’t forget Neal’s question (first post) – I am muscling in on his thread.

    George

    #51516
    near horse
    Participant

    Hi George,

    The part number I have for a haybine guard is NH 219190B. My dealer doesn’t have them on hand so I couldn’t verify that the bolt holes line up w/o ordering one. I’ll see if I have anything on the thread about modernizing your cutter. Are you talking about those “roller type guards” (I think)?

    [We spend a small fortune on hay each year /QUOTE] Buying or putting up hay?

    Good luck,

    Geoff

    #51517
    near horse
    Participant

    Here’s a link to the high end stuff that I think could be used to upgrade your cutter assembly and may be what Donn had originally referred to.

    http://www.schumacherlc.com/Schumacher_LC/3/

    #51514
    Does’ Leap
    Participant

    Geoff:

    Thanks for the info. Looks like a pretty sweet system. It’s looking like $400 delivered. In talking to the salesman, I gather it’s main advantage is that it is relatively hassel-free. I would like to hear from anyone who might be using this system. I would be willing to make the investment if I heard so positive things from others who are using it.

    To answer your question, we buy all our hay and it has to be certified organic. Our prices went up 35% in one year and the market for organic hay is more limited than conventional.

    George

    #51510
    ngcmcn
    Participant

    Geoff and George

    I got the haybine double guards from an NH dealer, they were like $17 a piece and the salesman said he could do me even better like $14/ea on a set. They were Case guards but matched the new/old style IHC guards. I was told by Norm at MacKnairs in Pa. that a 5′ bar would cost about $139 for new haybine guards inc. shpping.

    Replacing ledgers is a chore the last ones i did were on a #7. I made a wooden jig to hold them and drilled out the rivets on a drill press. I also had to grind the new ledgers to fit. I’m not sure if the new ledgers fit perfectly because i had some new/old ones and they slipped right in. Not sure if the new /old ones are still available.

    I make a point not to buy things at tractor dealerships unless i have too. A wrist pin for a 9 is $50 compared to $12 from PA.. The wear plate under the head is $36……..$12 from PA. Haybine knives were a fair price from the NH dealership.

    No matter what mower your running they all take constant maintainence. Its good to have a spare mower or parts around. Like a pitman stick. easy to make out of ash.

    the gears in my 9 are not sloppybad but i was looking for maybe some one that new more then me about what they should be. Some mowere just sing and the gearing has a lot to do with it.

    Gotta wash some kids

    Neal

    #51511
    Barw
    Participant

    Hello Near Horse
    Whats the guy want for the rubber tired #9.
    I could be interested.
    Barw

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