DAPNET Forums Archive › Forums › Equipment Category › Equipment › Pole Length and Height on MD #9 Mower
- This topic has 9 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 15 years, 6 months ago by
Donn Hewes.
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- May 26, 2009 at 12:19 am #40585
Does’ Leap
ParticipantI use a D-Ring harness with plug yoke system conceived by Les Barden (see attachment). The plug yoke is great b/c it neat and tight. My problem is that I believe it raises the pole compared with a standard yoke. L Miller states that at a pole length of 9’6″ the pole should be 31″ off the ground. My pole is presently 9’4″ and I am hitched lose (see attachment) and I am 34″ off the ground. As I hitch tighter to remove weight off the collar, I will raise the pole further off the ground. I can cut the pole back and reduce the height down to 31″ but the pole will be shorter that the aforementioned 9’6″.
Anyone mowing with a D-Ring that can offer some insight here?
Thanks.
George
May 26, 2009 at 12:55 am #52566Rod
ParticipantCould part of the problem be the way your yoke is set up? I know that Les Bardon’s video shows that yoke method but how long is his pole. It looked pretty long to me in the video I saw.
Also my #6 mower has a lever to change the angle of the cutter head with respect to the ground which it seems to me might be an adjustment that could compensate for the higher tongue position.
Three or four inches in tongue height difference at the end of a 10′ pole does not change the blade angle back at the mower by very much. Are you sure about the pole length recommendation? The ones I have seen a look a lot longer than that to me and I know one old timer who saws them told me mower tongue’s are to be 14′
.May 26, 2009 at 3:14 am #52567ngcmcn
ParticipantGeorge, I mow with a D-ring but not with the Les barden type neck yoke. I have more of an old evener type if you will. From the pin on the evener to the the cap strap stop at the end of the pole, i usually make them 120″ or 10 feet. This works for my set up but the pole is a bit low and its not do the pole length, its because i need to reduce the depth of the neck yoke, like your Les barden model. I believe the overall length of the pole is about 14′, maybe a tad under? With my rig running a bit low the bar lift looses some of its lift height and the bar tilt needs to be set back(higher at the guard tips from the ground). Your rig looks like the single trees might be getting into their heels if the chains are snugged up. You might have trouble with the inner heel registry to the ground and lift spring tension running the pole that hight at the front.
Went out and mowed three acres with my trusty old #7 which runs beautifully the othr day low pole and all. The horses didn’t mind.
I’d say go try it the way it is. Mowers are great machines but take some phrigging with to get em to run sweet.
Goodluck
Neal
maineMay 26, 2009 at 9:32 am #52570ParticipantThanks for the replies. My biggest concern is oil distribution. I believe that angle has partly to do with oil lubricating the driveshaft. Can anyone confirm this? I could weld up a bracket that would accept the plug yoke and lower the pole, but would prefer not.
George
May 26, 2009 at 10:05 am #52574Donn Hewes
KeymasterYes, I think you are right the ideal angle has the drive shaft parrallel to the ground. But I agree with what Neal said, I have run these mowers a few inches high or low with out any problems. I think it is quite common to run them a little low. Neal really hit everything I would say, check to make sure you can adjust the knive angle parrallel to the ground plus a point or two up or down. I usually am parrallel but sometimes I tip it down a little for lodged grass or short windy conditions. I also thought that the evener might be a little close to the heel. Good horses will tolerate the occasional heel hitting the evener, but I always try to fix it as it is a hazard that isn’t needed. Once they try to kick it will you are going down hill it is a little late to wish they had a longer tongue.
If there is enough room for the team I would use it. If not, a longer tongue is actually correcting for the tongue too high. For the same reason that halflingers on a short pole can get the right angle also. Halflingers on a mower for a larger team will often carry the tongue too low; but I have never seen a problem by doing that. Donn
May 29, 2009 at 11:09 pm #52571ParticipantI welded up a bracket that would enable me to set my plug yoke at various heights to get the 31″ needed. We were able to hitch tight at the ideal height. We tested it out going up and down hills and the horses feet never touched the evener.
George
May 30, 2009 at 1:06 am #52568ParticipantGood Sus George. What are the dimensions of the stock on your neck yoke. ? Main bar and singles?.
Thanks
Neal
May 30, 2009 at 11:03 pm #52572ParticipantNeal:
The single is 1x2x42 and the doubles are 1x1x21 or whatever length matches your evener set up. Works great – high and tight and never line hang up on the pole. The pin that goes into the pole is 5/8 x 5″ grade 8 bolt welded to the inside of the bracket. Let me know if you need more details.
George
May 31, 2009 at 4:08 am #52569ParticipantGeorge,
Is it hollow stock? If so, what is the wall thickness? Thanks for the info…
Was pulling a loose hay loader today for a demo at MOFGA. All the grass was scythed by unsuspecting workshop attendees. We got to bring it home to feed calves still in the barn till weaning.
Happy mowing. Sounds like your set to go. I still ahve some repairs to do this week to be ready to cut hay. That’s OK, it’s still raining.
Neal
May 31, 2009 at 1:59 pm #52573ParticipantNeal:
It is hollow tubing 1/8″ thick. The receiver that the plug is welded to was made from 2x3x1/4″ channel (that is two 3″ walls with a 2″ floor). You need to cut one of the 3″ walls off and weld a piece of 2×3″ flat bar to accept the main part of your yoke and bolt it solid. Feel free to give me a call and I can explain it better over the phone if this doesn’t make sense (802.827.3046). Lastly, the tubing was cut a little longer than I mentioned before so that I could have enough room to drill and weld the eye bolts on the correct centers.
Good luck.
George
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