log scoot

Ronnie, a scoot is actually made for use on dry ground. Being a sled it does obviously work well on snow too, but a pole is required. On dry ground there is no need for a pole, except for very steep slopes, which adds to the maneuverability. I don’t have detailed plans, but I saw some in SFJ just a few issues ago, from a logging museum in Maine. Others may have plans, but I will look into finding some.

I can tell you how to build one though, and I will if no one come up with plans. I will be rebuilding mine soon, and will be taking pictures at the very least.

Basics are 2- 2 1/2″ x 12″ x 12′ sides. 2- 4″ x 6″ x 4′ bunks with steel bands for stake pockets. Hardwood shoes are bolted on to the bottoms of the sides to take the where. 1″ trunnel pins go through the sides into the bunks so that the sides move independent of each other. The hitch is a spreader chain that hooks into the sides just under the front bunk, this way the horses pull the outside runner when making a turn.
Bunks are 7’6″ apart so an 8’er can fit.

The 1″ trunnel pins are turned at the end, so that when they are driven in the bottom of the side they hook and and can’t go through. They are countersunk so as not to protrude under the shoe.

The shoes are 4×4 hardwood held on by threaded rod bolted through the runner sides, and countersunk so the bolt doesn’t drag. The sink holes are usually 3″ deep so that the shoe can wear away and not expose the bolt head.

The shoes are fit by laying the long section on and cutting the angle to match the angle up the front of the runner. Then the front shoe is made by turning the remaining section over and overlapping the back shoe so that the front shoe takes most of the wear.

Carl