Logging Questions

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  • #41129
    Does’ Leap
    Participant

    I am currently thinning our sugar woods and selling hemlock to a local mill and have some questions for you professional loggers out there.

    Question 1: I have been through level 3 of Game of Logging and have a questions about there 6 point limbing system. They recommend the second cut as a push cut where the saw is resting on top of the tree. Unless the tree is waist height or higher, I find this awkward. Any insights on this?

    Question 2: My general approach after felling a tree is to attach my loggers tape to the but and go about limbing. When I reach a diameter of 8″ toward the top of the tree I check my tape to see the amount of marketable footage. I then go about marking out the logs based on curvature, defects, etc. I’ll then cut of sections of the tree that my horses can pull based on the conditions and go about skidding. How do others approach this task?

    Question 3: I am clueless about cutting hardwood saw logs so as to maximize the value of the tree. Any books, websites, or references that deal with this topic (preferably with pictures and examples)?

    Thanks.

    George

    #55763
    Carl Russell
    Moderator

    Question 1: I have been through level 3 of Game of Logging and have a questions about there 6 point limbing system. They recommend the second cut as a push cut where the saw is resting on top of the tree. Unless the tree is waist height or higher, I find this awkward. Any insights on this?

    I bend my knees. With hemlock it is pretty difficult to stick to the six cuts exactly because the limbs tend to be so large. If you make sure to take the step with the number one cut, you should be able to lower your body by bending your knees. Also try to fell the trees on benches (other trees cut across the path of the fall) to help keep the tree elevated while you work on it.

    Question 2: My general approach after felling a tree is to attach my loggers tape to the but and go about limbing. When I reach a diameter of 8″ toward the top of the tree I check my tape to see the amount of marketable footage. I then go about marking out the logs based on curvature, defects, etc. I’ll then cut of sections of the tree that my horses can pull based on the conditions and go about skidding. How do others approach this task?

    I do it just like this.

    Question 3: I am clueless about cutting hardwood saw logs so as to maximize the value of the tree. Any books, websites, or references that deal with this topic (preferably with pictures and examples)?

    I did have a government publication years ago called felling and bucking hardwoods, or something like that. You might be able to google such a book. Nothing will replace getting the log buyer to come to your woodlot, especially with logs on the landing. They should help you cut up a few trees so that you can understand the spec sheet by seeing it n action.

    Carl

    #55764
    Rick Alger
    Participant

    Hi George,

    1. I haven’t had the benefit of the Game of Logging, so I can answer only from my experience. Think of it as shearing a sheep. Keep the saw on the log running at full speed. Follow a pattern – far side, top side, near side -step – near side, top side, far side. Adjust your whole body to the angles instead of just your hands. Come back down the tree limbing the bottom side.

    2. That’s what I do. My only advice here is to make sure what lengths they are taking, and what ratio of short logs to 16’s they will accept.

    3. I don’t do much hardwood. There is some good stuff on the Forestry Forum that covers bucking hardwood. A lot of it comes down to local specs and market conditions. I am pulping white birch right now that would have brought in a small fortune as boltwood twenty years ago.

    #55766
    john plowden
    Participant

    George – I try to keep the saw supported when limbing and work from the butt while measuring – I also tend to chop the slash down as I go – As you limb look for defects – sweep, knots, seams – try to minimize while getting the best length – If the trails are straight enough I’ll mark two logs cut once then separate into two on the landing – just remember to add your trim into the measurement – Most of my mills don’t take 8″ pine and only a handful of10″ per load – Hardwood can be tricky especially learning to cut veneer – I’d recommend someone, perhaps your buyer to work with you the first few times – There are “consolidation yards” that will buy many different species as logs instead of pulp – they don’t pay as much as a mill because they broker the logs –
    When working hardwood I’ll cut the limbs not quite through so that they will fold and stay attached saving a trip back for marketable pulp/firewood – Softwood smaller than 8″ and hardwood smaller than 6″ stays in the woods for fertilzer –
    John

    #55767
    john plowden
    Participant

    I meant 8′ and 10′ pine per load –

    #55765
    Rick Alger
    Participant

    Hi Joel,
    There certainly are a few jokers at FF, but there are also some really knowledgeable guys and some excellent info.

    Rick

    #55771
    matt wny
    Participant

    on hard woods its usualy more important to keep you defects{nots and limbs} as close to the end of the log as possible to increase the grade of log for maximum value. at the same time different markets call for different lengths.i strongly recomend that anyone consult with a few different log buyers before cutting any trees up.or if you can skid tree length without doing to much damage to the woods this a good option.let the buyer determine where to cut the logs.it is also important the get hard woods sold soon after cutting ecspecialy hard maple it stains rather quickly.fall and winter is the best time to cut maple it will keep the longest.if cut in the spring when the sap is running logs will stain in a matter of a week or less

    #55769
    ArtieT
    Participant

    George – As has been mentioned here before, meeting with a log buyer on the landing is a very important first step. Have 4 – 6 logs out and have the buyer scale them in front of you. Have him / her explain to you what they are looking for and what they are seeing. Get a copy of their spec sheet and go through it thoroughly with them. Some critical points will be species, lengths, tip size, and trim. Then call a couple of other buyers and have them look at the same logs and then compare notes. You should know the break point between firewood vs. sawlog. For example – if white ash #2’s are paying $150/mbf delivered to the mill and tree length firewood is $75.00 per cord on the landing which is the better deal for you as the seller? A very simple and loose rule of thumb is 2 cords per 1 thousand feet of logs. So in this example firewood may be the best option for you the seller. This brings up another critical issue in selling logs – who is paying the trucking? Is the price being offered on the landing or delivered to the mill? Knowing this price and who is paying it before any logs leave the landing is absolutely necessary!

    Here is a website to check out – http://www.hardwoodvip.org . I was involved with this project a few years back. I am not sure if they are still functional. The website does have some bucking tips on it. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

    #55768
    Does’ Leap
    Participant

    Thanks for the responses and advice. Seems like having the buyer/s here looking at logs is a good idea. Artie, looks like a great website, however the “tips” links are all non-existent. Do you know how I can access them?

    Carl, you mention felling trees on “benches”. I have appreciated the usefulness of benches when I had inadvertently used them in the past and will try to plan accordingly in the future. What is your approach when there are no suitable benches and your limbed tree is partially embedded in the forest floor in need of bucking (a situation I continually find myself in) and the tree is too big to pull (or peavey) to a more suitable location for cutting into logs?

    George

    #55770
    ArtieT
    Participant

    Try the Forest Service or the Ohio Forestry Association links on the site. You could also try the Northeatern Loggers Association. They put on the “train the trainer program” that I was part of. Also check out the listing of trainers on the site – you may know someone or someone might be from your area.

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