DAPNET Forums Archive › Forums › Equipment Category › Equipment › IH #9 High Gear
- This topic has 20 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 14 years, 4 months ago by
colttrainer.
- AuthorPosts
- June 28, 2010 at 4:16 pm #41792
colttrainer
ParticipantHi All
Just obtained a IH #9 high gear mower, the casting was broken where the tongue bolts on. It is repairable. What I need is a close up photo of how all the lift linkages are attached. It seems to me that I may be missing a a part.
Thanks AlJune 28, 2010 at 7:14 pm #61019jac
ParticipantHi Al.. Cant help you with the linkage thing except to check out Lynn Millers mower book but im sure some of the lucky guys who own one of these beauties might post a foto.. The casting can be welded with varying success. I welded a bit on the gearing housing on my hay turner with my mig.. Full power and shove the wire in !! totaly cleaned it with the gas axe 1st to get rid of all the oil.. its just finished this seasons hay.. your weld will have to put up with a lot more force tho, so prob best to use a stick welder with a cast rod.. good luck, by what I’ve heard of these mowers they seem to be the dogs doodahs…
JohnJune 28, 2010 at 8:02 pm #61023Participant@jac 19349 wrote:
Hi Al.. Cant help you with the linkage thing except to check out Lynn Millers mower book but im sure some of the lucky guys who own one of these beauties might post a foto.. The casting can be welded with varying success. I welded a bit on the gearing housing on my hay turner with my mig.. Full power and shove the wire in !! totaly cleaned it with the gas axe 1st to get rid of all the oil.. its just finished this seasons hay.. your weld will have to put up with a lot more force tho, so prob best to use a stick welder with a cast rod.. good luck, by what I’ve heard of these mowers they seem to be the dogs doodahs…
JohnWelder by trade, best repair on cast is to use 309 stainless rod.
June 28, 2010 at 8:33 pm #61020ParticipantSorry Al .. mis read your post.. thot you asked “if it was repairable” not ” it is repairable” need to read twice from now on …
JohnJune 28, 2010 at 9:47 pm #61013mitchmaine
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hi al, if there is a photo of your mower here, look and see if it makes sense. the 1/2 ” rod that connects the mower heel to the bracket on the pole is 28″ long and should be straight. the bracket itself that houses the evener measures 29.5″ from the front of the cast housing over the pole. hope that is helpful.
mitch
June 29, 2010 at 9:59 am #61024Participant@mitchmaine 19356 wrote:
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hi al, if there is a photo of your mower here, look and see if it makes sense. the 1/2 ” rod that connects the mower heel to the bracket on the pole is 28″ long and should be straight. the bracket itself that houses the evener measures 29.5″ from the front of the cast housing over the pole. hope that is helpful.
mitch
Mitch
The photo I need is of the cam system where the spring & lift lever & foot lift attach. The photo you posted does help some as it appears the rod to the heal bar lines up center of the pole.
AlJune 29, 2010 at 10:50 pm #61014Participant[ATTACH]1319.jpg” />
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hope these pictures help.
mitch
June 29, 2010 at 11:39 pm #61025Participant@mitchmaine 19381 wrote:
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hope these pictures help.
mitch
Just what the doc ordered. Thanks a million.
July 1, 2010 at 11:22 am #61015ParticipantHey, been waiting for today for a month. Haying weather. Hooked the horses, put in my knife and pitman, topped off the oil…..oil leak. Pitman shaft seal. Darn, oh well, later…three laps around the field and snapped off the mower toungue. Darn. Busted it up so bad I couldn’t use it for a pattern. Darn. The good news? Two nights ago al asked for the measurements on the pole and I went out , taped them, and posted the measurements. Logged in, read my own post and fixed my pole. Without that I’d have been stuck. This website rules! Cut a piece of green red (??????) oak and replaced the pole and have the seal out. The replacement seal is about half the thickness. Darn. Anyway, good luck haying, thanks al, and carry on…..
mitch
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July 2, 2010 at 11:18 pm #61026ParticipantMitch
Did you find a seal to work on the pitman? If so what is the number? Waiting for parts stores to get their haying supplies in (not sure why they are so far behind this year) need more sections. Anyway filled the gear box, Guess what, you are right pitman seal leaking!!!
Al
If it wasn’t for bad luck I’d have none!!July 3, 2010 at 2:23 am #61016Participanthi al,
bummer. bad feelin’ ain’t it? try not to mention horse drawn mower at the auto parts store. things go down hill instantly. the seal is 1.125″ (shaft) x 1.825 (ish) or 1 13/16 strong on the housing. it was a car quest number A10145-476838. good luck.
mitch
July 3, 2010 at 7:48 pm #61010OldKat
Participant@mitchmaine 19431 wrote:
Hey, been waiting for today for a month. Haying weather. Hooked the horses, put in my knife and pitman, topped off the oil…..oil leak. Pitman shaft seal. Darn, oh well, later…three laps around the field and snapped off the mower toungue. Darn. Busted it up so bad I couldn’t use it for a pattern. Darn. The good news? Two nights ago al asked for the measurements on the pole and I went out , taped them, and posted the measurements. Logged in, read my own post and fixed my pole. Without that I’d have been stuck. This website rules! Cut a piece of green red (??????) oak and replaced the pole and have the seal out. The replacement seal is about half the thickness. Darn. Anyway, good luck haying, thanks al, and carry on…..
mitch
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Mitch,
Lynn Miller says to use TWO of the modern seals on each side, because he said they are exactly 1/2 as thick as the old style. Haven’t gotten into mine yet, but I just read that passage the other day. I had to read it twice, becuase I thought it sounded goofy … but that is what he said works best.
Good idea about measuring out the tongue in case the old one breaks.
BTW: I have never heard the difference between a “#9” and a “HighGear #9”
Thought maybe this was covered in the Miller book, but couldn’t find it. Anyone got an answer?July 4, 2010 at 12:35 am #61027Participant@OldKat 19492 wrote:
Mitch,
Lynn Miller says to use TWO of the modern seals on each side, because he said they are exactly 1/2 as thick as the old style. Haven’t gotten into mine yet, but I just read that passage the other day. I had to read it twice, becuase I thought it sounded goofy … but that is what he said works best.
Good idea about measuring out the tongue in case the old one breaks.
BTW: I have never heard the difference between a “#9” and a “HighGear #9”
Thought maybe this was covered in the Miller book, but couldn’t find it. Anyone got an answer?The high gear are geared to drive the knife faster than the regular 9’s. Very little difference in the ratio but enough, the high gear pulls a little heavier also.
July 4, 2010 at 1:51 am #61017Participanthey guys, it’s a hard job digging a seal out of that mower, i can’t imagine digging two out one behind the other, but it sure would seal wouldn’t it.
i counted pitman speed once and a high gear mower pitman turns 28 rev. per one turn of the wheel. the regular gear and the number 7 both turn 26. like al says, not a lot of difference. mitchJuly 4, 2010 at 7:37 am #61021ParticipantCan these cutter bars be driven too fast ? I ask because the old Albion mower I have works great at a steady pace.. if its going to plug it will do it when either the horses slow down or oddly if they break into a jog ?? I just wondered if there is an optimum speed for these knives… or am I just going to have to buy a no.9…
John - AuthorPosts
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