In Search of Green Hay

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  • #41934
    Does’ Leap
    Participant

    We put 300 bales of nice second cut during this stretch of warm weather. We switched our halflinger in out with our team of bays to rake and the horses did well in the heat.

    We cut a couple of different meadows, but essentially we followed this routine:
    Day 1: mow; Day 2: ted once; Day 3 Rake; Day 4-5 (and even day 6) rake! I tried to preserve some color in the blasting sun by raking before it was totally dry. Once in the windrow, it didn’t really dry much. We must have flipped that hay with the rake a half dozen times or more before we could bale. I ran the edge of the rake along the windrow in attempt to invert it. One patch, we baled on day 6!

    My conclusion: don’t rake until it is dry. Does anyone in the Northeast disagree? Any tips to dispense to a novice hay maker?

    George

    #61988
    Tim Harrigan
    Participant

    Do you have a bar rake?

    #61996
    mitchmaine
    Participant

    hey george, my hay may not have been as thick as yours. we had to triple them up. my thought was to rake first, then ted because it was so thinnly spread around. in the end we never tedded it. just reraked it three times and baled it. we have a rotary rake and it sweeps the grass till its standing. dries very nicely that way and keeps its color. if you had a neighbor with that rake and had him do a field for you, you could experiment a little, maybe. best o’ luck, mitch

    #61987
    Theloggerswife
    Participant

    We have found what works for us best is to run the tedder right after mowing the hay. It causes less leaf damage and the hay is spread out, right from the beginning to expedite drying. We rake it over once, let it dry and then bale it up.

    I do have to say that even though we have had plenty of heat lately, it has taken us an extra day of drying due to the humidity. But, we don’t take any extras steps. We just leave it tedded out for an extra day. The last 15 acre piece we mowed/tedded it out on Thursday and did not bale it up until Monday.

    #61989
    Tim Harrigan
    Participant

    This post by George and an earlier hay drying discussion make me think of some earlier work that I did with Dr. Alan Rotz on comparing hay drying strategies. He was previously at MSU but is now at State College PA with the USDA pasture group. He is probably the #1 authority in North America on hay drying technologies so it was great having the opportunity to work with him. I am attaching a pdf file of a presentation on rapid hay drying that I gave at a meeting put on by the Michigan Hay and Grazing Council in 2008. It includes some general discussion of hay drying but the part that is most interesting is the graphs near the end that directly compare hay drying rates.

    The graphs track the drying rate of the hay in two drying trials that we did during one of our farm shows. The crop was a second cut alfalfa yielding 2.25 ton/acre dry matter, a pretty good second cutting. We compared (1)hay cut and layed in a wide swath (haybine) and then raked before baling at about 30% moisture, (2) hay cut and layed in a narrow swath and left alone until ready for baling, (3) hay cut and layed in a wide swath, tedded and they raked for baling, and (4) hay cut and layed in a narrow swath, then inverted with a windrow turner (30% moisture) for baling. In trial 1 there was 4/10 inch of rain during the night after the first day. Trial 2 started on the second day and did not receive any rain. In this trial all the hay was mechanically conditioned, raking was with a rotary rake and tedding was with a rotary tedder. We collected and dried hay samples from the windrow immediately after cutting and then every 2 hours during the day until the hay was dry enough for baling.

    Before I explain the results of that work I want to say a few things about page 10 of the pdf which compares expected, average drying rates for cuts 1-3 of alfalfa with different drying strategies. These are averages that include a wide range of conditions including years that have rain so the results are relative to each other. Central Michigan conditions, second cutting is usually mid-July, we are influenced by the Great Lakes so clouds and high humidity are common, 105 day corn is pretty typical. Probably the most relavant for animal draft haying is the first method on the far left of the horizontal axis, Sickle bar, Full Swath, Rake and the third method from the left, Mechancal condition, Wide Swath, Rake. This indicates that the relative advantage of mechanical conditioning alfalfa hay is big in cut one (<5 days vs 8 days), less advantage in cut 2 (<4 days vs 5.5 days) and no advantage in cut 3.

    On page 12 is the graph of Trial 1. The blue vertical bar indicates rain during the night. The horizontal line at 68% moisture indicates when each method was dry enough for haylage harvest, the horizontal line at 18% indicates when each was dry enough for baling. There are thick, vertical, colored lines that indicate when certain operations were done. For instance, the hay was cut at 9 am on day one and tedding was done about 11:30 am. On day 2 after the rain the crop was tedded again at 9 am, the raking and inverting were done a little later at 1 pm after the top of the swath had dried.

    The narrow, colored, vertical lines indicate when each method was at a moisture suitable for harvest. For baleage harvest at 68% moisture the tedded hay was ready for baleage harvest by 1 pm on day 1, the wide swath raked about 2:45, narrow swath inverted about 3:15 and the untouched narrow swath at 4:45.

    There was considerable re-wetting over night from the rain. By 5 pm the tedded hay was <30%, the inverted narrow swath about 38%, wide swath raked about 45% and the untouched wide swath about 55%.

    On day 3 the tedded and raked hay was ready at 11 am, the other method were ready at 1 pm.

    In trial 2 the drying conditions were better, lower humidity, drier air with a good breeze. Little difference between methods, every method was ready for chopping around 1 pm. On day 2 the inverted narrow swath was ready for baling at 1 pm, tedded hay about 2pm, wide swath raked about 2:45, untouched narrow swath at 5 pm.

    So I guess the bottom line is weather has a huge effect on drying, mechanical manipulation has some effect but not as great as is would seem. The tool does not dry the hay, but it can create conditions that make drying from sun, wind etc more efficient. The trade-off is in the human and animal energy cost of the operation and in the hay dry matter loss that occurs with every mechanical manipulation of the crop, particularly as the hay approaches baling moisture and is brittle. The leaves are what is lost, and that is the best part of the feed value. So the weather is pretty important. If there is not rain in the forcast the regret for leaving the hay in the field 6 days rather than 5 is pretty small. But if cutting 1/2 or 1 day off the drying time saves the hay from a rain event the value is pretty big.

    #61977
    Carl Russell
    Moderator

    George it’s been a few years since I made hay, but I remember that this time of year is really tough. The nights are long and there is a lot of moisture that comes out of the air and ground.

    I always had really good luck with this schedule.
    Day 1, mow late afternoon. Day 2 ted late am, and mid-late afternoon. Day 3 possibly ted or more likely rake late am. Often rake again late afternoon day 3, then mound the hay for pick up. I put it up loose, and found it much more fore giving if it wasn’t crispy dry. Unless it was rained on it was always rich and green in the middle of the winter.

    I think the secret to affective raking and tedding is doing it in hot direct sunshine. The hay dries fastest if it can get that hot dry air all around it.

    Once rowan is raked it will compress and mat down, reducing air flow. I would rather ted it one more time than rake and rake and rake. If it was still not dry in the windrow, I would ted it out instead of raking again.

    Carl

    #61990
    Tim Harrigan
    Participant
    Theloggerswife;20625 wrote:
    We have found what works for us best is to run the tedder right after mowing the hay. It causes less leaf damage and the hay is spread out, right from the beginning to expedite drying. We rake it over once, let it dry and then bale it up.

    I do have to say that even though we have had plenty of heat lately, it has taken us an extra day of drying due to the humidity. But, we don’t take any extras steps. We just leave it tedded out for an extra day. The last 15 acre piece we mowed/tedded it out on Thursday and did not bale it up until Monday.

    I think this is an excellent, practical approach. The weather dries the crop, not the machine. Once you ted the crop once, unless something happens to flatten it out so air movement in not effective, the added value from another tedding will usually be greatly diminished compared to the first tedding. And, if the humidity is high or the crop is shaded along a tree line the mechanical manipulation alone is not going to do much.

    I am a proponent of doing the least amount of manipulation possible to put up good quality hay. That will change from first to second and third cut and from one year to the next. The reward is better hay and less work. I am also a proponent of in-field comparisons that are not overly complicated and reveal valuable information about what is really going on. It is not too hard to ted some windrows and leave others wide and rake later, bale what is ready and get the other a little later. It is important to farm smart with draft animals. Maybe you are already, maybe there is room for improvement.

    I am a cautious proponent of the tedder. Right after mowing a heavy first cutting, shake the dew off a late first day cutting on the second day, wake up a matted down rained on crop. Lighter crops or late in the drying cycle the value not so clear cut because the tedding also damages the hay. I have heard some lofty claims of how fast the tedder will dry the hay, but in the work I described earlier and other work when the measurements are side-by-side the faster drying is usually a couple of hours to a half day, maybe a day in a heavy first cutting. I think it is important to avoid whole-field comparisons where the big difference might be the weather, not the tedder or rake. “Last year it took 6 days to dry down and this year I used a tedder and it only took 3 days…..” type of thing.

    #61997
    mitchmaine
    Participant

    that is exactly the reason i like this rotary rake so well. it sweeps it once to the side and thats it. a side delivery rake tumbles it over and over into a rope and out making it much tougher to dry and a spin tedder eats grass alive.

    #61984
    near horse
    Participant

    I think Tim might be getting at this point but I’ll mention it. The “current conditions” can change the drying time substantially so it’s hard to make an “X” number of days suggestion.

    Daytime temps, relative humidity and wind can all drastically affect drying as well as night time temps (which can really increase the RH if they get low enough). Finally, what are you all cutting? When you talk about leaf shatter, you’re usually referring to a legume rather than a grass crop. Is that true here?

    Wind is a good thing – as long is doesn’t blow your hay into the next county:) Works like a blow dryer.

    I would be more prone to give hay at least one or two days drying then tedd, let it dry and rake/bale. Once I’ve got hay into a windrow, I want to get it baled up ASAP – raking into a windrow slows drying IMHO.

    BTW- Your mileage may vary if you’re east of the Mississipi 🙁

    #61998
    mitchmaine
    Participant

    Its three o’clock in the afternoon, and supposed to rain tomorrow. Todays hay is still a tad green to bale. You could bale it up anyway and let it sit on the wagon a couple days in on the barn floor to cure before you throw it up overhead. You could always feed it out to the dry cows and heifers. Or you could see, it might not really rain tomorrow, and you could bale it then. If it rained on it , you could sell it for mulch and get a couple bucks for it. You do the best you can, I guess.
    Jump forward seven months, everything dead for a thousand miles in all directions and covered with snow. You grab the same bale of hay and toss it down off the scaffolding behind the neighbors waiting truck. He’s short of hay and needs a few bales. Nothing on earth looks as green to me as hay in march. “beats eatin’ snowballs.” My dad would say. You do the best you can.

    #61981
    Donn Hewes
    Keymaster

    I agree with a lot of what has already been said.

    Some of the ideas I have taken home as I continue to learn hay making.

    True with a tractor but doubly so for horses, I don’t want to do anything for little or no effect. I try to never rake until my hay is ready to bale ( I will rake early if I believe the hay is already dry and a little dew will reduce the shatter, but only if I am planning to bale it that day) . I might change that some day if I get a different rake.

    I think the haybine made the hay dry faster, but only certain plants (red clover) and certain stages of maturity. Sometimes the difference MIGHT have been a day, many other times it was only a few hours. To a horse farmer a few hours is not as helpful as it is to others; I won’t be going out to bale at any hour of the day or night. This year I have mowed all but six acres with the sickle bar mower and I think I am done with the haybine. I will do a better job of tedding to hopefully make up for the drying effect of the haybine.

    True testing is very difficult. The only experiment that would be of much value would be two rigs working in the same field at the same time. Even then you probably would get different results if you did the same tests the next year or even two months later.

    I some times bale a field of hay and 10% of the bales are heavier than the rest. I will except this as a way of getting good hay in the barn. I can be careful to set those bales on edge on top of the stack or else where if need be.

    Last week I made about 275 second cutting bales off 12 acres. A pretty light cutting. It was the last field mowed for first cutting, so it was only about six weeks regrowth. I mowed with sickle bar mowers one day (didn’t do the whole thing in one day), tedded the next morning, raked and baled the next day. There were a few heavy spots and one hedge row area that should have had an extra day to dry but it is all in the barn now. I was done by Monday before it got real hot.

    #61999
    mitchmaine
    Participant

    hey donn, just for the record, i had about the same yeild you did on 2nd cut. because the grass was so low, it had a tendancy to fall ahead of the horse mower leaving a couple inches of stubble uncut, and i thought it should be a cleaner cut. so i tried it with our mower conditioner and the horse mower did a better job. in the experiment, the feild was consistant, and i was a fair control seeing that i set up both mowers and was motivated to do the best job in each case. our neighbor, of course, mows with a discbine and his feilds look like golf courses. but i’m doing the best that i can.

    #61978
    Does’ Leap
    Participant

    Lots of food for thought here. Thanks to all for the information. Tim, I have a side delivery rake which, as Mitch noted, twists the hay together. I always knew that it twisted, but learned the hard way that it doesn’t dry hay.

    A question about your attachment: all the folks I’ve talked to locally always tedd only when the dew is off. Your powerpoint suggests the opposite. Can you expand on that?

    One big factor in drying hay for us is fertility. I estimate we cut around 5 acres and yielded 300 bales (40 lbs / per). Where the grass was light, it dried great. Where it wasn’t, it seemed to take forever to dry sitting twisted in my windrow. We also tedd with a ground driven barrel-type tedder. This is a far cry from a modern tedder as many of you know.

    Lots to learn, but we are chugging away. Last year (our first) we made 600 bales. This year we doubled that I have more to cut weather permitting.

    George

    #61982
    Donn Hewes
    Keymaster

    Hi Mitch and George, My mowers are set up high and I leave them that way for clipping. It cuts down on the yield some times but I figure I will get it all eventually, (grazing in November,etc.) Also these lush pastures are why you are having a harder time mowing. I wouldn’t change them, but they will take extra persistence to make hay on.

    300 bales from 6 acres is heavy second cutting. My field right in front of my house is probably yielding like that right now, but fortunately we are grazing it this year. Last year I fought a good fight with a beautiful second cutting only to watch it get soaked on the 5th day, UGH! Rained every day after that. A haybine would make fields like that dry faster, I do believe. I would just keep tedding it until you Think it is ready to rake and bale the same day.

    #61995
    mother katherine
    Participant

    Thanks so much for these discussions. I’m only in my 2nd year making hay and appreciate all your words of wisdom.
    I’m learning about leaving green hay to “cook in the wagon”/ stand it upright to breathe and throwing a little salt on it from the older timers around here.
    The covered round bales I fed out last December or so looked REALLY green in that arctic weather.
    I just learned about “better than eating snowballs last week”. I thought it was pretty funny.
    Thanks for putting your work down on paper for us.
    oxnun

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