DAPNET Forums Archive › Forums › The Front Porch › Member Diaries › seeding
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- September 16, 2010 at 12:22 am #41964Andy CarsonModerator
I spread and rolled cover crop seed today. 1 acre oats, 1 acre clover, and 1 acre oats/turnip mix. I was a bit delayed getting this in as I had to wait for seed to be delivered. Rookie mistake, I will always order and have seed on hand well ahead of when I need it in the future. I still need to plant the rye and rye/vetch mix. My roller worked pretty well, but it HAS to have better bearings. I broke it, haywired it, broke it, wired it, broke it again, an then called in quits for the day. Good day though, and I can fix the roller in time for the next couple cover crops. It’s supposed to rain hard tomorrow anyway so the area that didn’t get rolled might not suffer badly. This is the first real crop I have planted with draft animal power (if you don’t count seeding a little grass this spring), so it’s a big milestone for me. Now it’s time to see what works…
September 16, 2010 at 12:26 am #62136goodcompanionParticipantRight on! I like those shafts!
September 16, 2010 at 2:14 am #62148Tim HarriganParticipantLooks like the timing is good with the rain. Those oats and turnips will jump. How wide is the swath with that spreader?
September 16, 2010 at 2:17 am #62176dlskidmoreParticipantWhat a nice little seeder! Was it originally designed to go with a lawn tractor? It looks light enough for Maggie to use. (Great Dane, theoretical working load up to 375 lbs, but I mostly work her with 200 or less.) How easy is it to pull? I assume there’s some resistance from the ground drive spreader action?
September 16, 2010 at 2:36 am #62160Andy CarsonModeratorYes, it was originally designed for a lawn tractor. The settings are supposedly in “pounds per 1000 square feet.” It not even close! I ended up spreading oats at the setting of “11 pounds per 1000 square feet.” It is an easy pull, I can move it around myself no problem. If I was going to pull it with a much smaller animal, I might rig up way to prevent the tongue from nosediving into the ground from time to time. That the only time it gets hard to pull by hand. The horse, of course, doesn’t notice this. She’s way overpowered for this job, but she’s reliable. The booklet on the spreader says the swath is 12 feet, but it looks pretty thin 6 feet away from the center, so I overlapped and made about 8-10 foot passes. I actually made alot more passes than this, because I was getting used to the seeding rate, which was so far off the booklet info it took a while to convince myself. I have concerns that the small seed (turnip seed) may have settled to the bottom of the seeder when mixed with the large seed (oats) and been broadcast at greater rates at the beginning of the run, but not much can be done about that now…
September 16, 2010 at 1:21 pm #62157blue80ParticipantGood idea with the overlapping.
I was taught when broadcasting seed always spread 1/2 rate, and run the second pass perpendicular…. We usually culitpacked our alfalfa to get it buried 1/4 inch, and the old timers (saying this respectfully) were emphatic that we cultipacked both directions. They said it was imperative for best seed contact. This also made a small grid pattern in the soil, and helped cup moisture for the seed to germinate. These guys said in many cases, better stands can be achieved with broadcasting over use of seed drills, but then “agribusiness” suffers….September 18, 2010 at 4:06 am #62143OldKatParticipant@Countymouse 20813 wrote:
Yes, it was originally designed for a lawn tractor. The settings are supposedly in “pounds per 1000 square feet.” It not even close! I ended up spreading oats at the setting of “11 pounds per 1000 square feet.” It is an easy pull, I can move it around myself no problem. If I was going to pull it with a much smaller animal, I might rig up way to prevent the tongue from nosediving into the ground from time to time. That the only time it gets hard to pull by hand. The horse, of course, doesn’t notice this. She’s way overpowered for this job, but she’s reliable. The booklet on the spreader says the swath is 12 feet, but it looks pretty thin 6 feet away from the center, so I overlapped and made about 8-10 foot passes. I actually made alot more passes than this, because I was getting used to the seeding rate, which was so far off the booklet info it took a while to convince myself. I have concerns that the small seed (turnip seed) may have settled to the bottom of the seeder when mixed with the large seed (oats) and been broadcast at greater rates at the beginning of the run, but not much can be done about that now…
Nope, what is done is done.
However, for next year try premixing your small seed with coarse sand then mixing that with your larger seed. I’ve done that before and it worked pretty well for me.
September 18, 2010 at 1:09 pm #62149Tim HarriganParticipantOne of the reasons oat/turnip are a nice mix is that the oats carry the turnip through the drill. Turnip alone is really hard to meter because it is so small. I used a drill and there was some separation on a small ledge in the grain box, but the stand looks great. I did not run it through a broadcast spreader. I think is is more likely that the seeds will throw at a different distance. So the suggestion to seed at right angles is good. It will probably turn out better than you think. You can always spread between a couple of tarps and see what hits and where.
September 18, 2010 at 11:42 pm #62144OldKatParticipant@Tim Harrigan 20854 wrote:
One of the reasons oat/turnip are a nice mix is that the oats carry the turnip through the drill. Turnip alone is really hard to meter because it is so small. I used a drill and there was some separation on a small ledge in the grain box, but the stand looks great. I did not run it through a broadcast spreader. I think is is more likely that the seeds will throw at a different distance. So the suggestion to seed at right angles is good. It will probably turn out better than you think. You can always spread between a couple of tarps and see what hits and where.
That is how I was talking about planting it, with a broadcast seeder.
September 24, 2010 at 10:25 pm #62161Andy CarsonModeratorIn case anyone is curious, I have been checking on the field periodically and have a report to share. The oats are growing well, and seem to be unaffected by rolling (remember I seeded right before a soaking rain but my roller broke before I could roll everything). Turnips likewise seem unaffected by rolling. The clover seems pretty affected, however, with the rolled areas having maybe 1.5-2 times to number of sprouts. I still plan on rolling everything in the future, but found this interesting anyway.
Fun notes… I have lots of volunteer clover in my “clover” field (the large leaves differentiate it from what I planted). Freshly sprouted turnips taste just like full grown turnips from the garden. An area were I spilt a little oat seed is embarrassingly obvious.
September 25, 2010 at 3:17 am #62140dominiquer60ModeratorI seeded some oats and peas on September first as a cover crop in 2 different fields. Field A was bare fallowed with discs and /or a perfecta harrow for the month of July and August to knock off some hot weather seeds in the bank. It is also on good slope next to the road and has a wet spot in the middle of it during a normal year. We have not had over a half inch of rain at one time in the last 9 weeks, total we have not had more than 2.5 inches in that time.
Field B was our first seeding of sweet corn on the flat, after harvest it was slowly chopped for the beef cows a little at a time and then plowed under and disced once. It was moist when plowed, but was a little dry when I disced it just before seeding. Both fields were broadcast seeded, incorporated with a light harrowing and cultipacked with a double gang brillon.So far we have received a tenth of an inch here and a three tenths there with above average temps. Field A actually has some oat and peas growing, thinner than I wanted but fairly uniform except for a shallow corner by the only bordering tree. Field B on the flat (with water table usually just inches below) has a couple little strips of oats and some random peas here and there.
Here is what I would like to have done different if I had it to do again. I would have liked to have chisel plowed Field B, with the corn chopped off there was not a lot of debris to deal with but the plot was very weedy. I would have liked to have disced it at least once more and given it a little more fallow time before seeding into a hopefully smoother finer bed than the one that I had, I don’t think I had good soil/seed contact. Perhaps this is not the best thing to do but I wish is was a possibility, but we actually cannot use a chisel on the flat because we are afraid of ripping up the 100 year old shallow clay tiles that drain our only flat ground. Any ideas of what I did wrong or rather do you have a different approach that I could try in the future to conserve moisture in a less than ideal cover crop seeding season?
Thanks in advance,
Erika
PS We are talking tractor farming here, cattle are slowly getting worked into the mix as they grow, change is slow sometimes.
September 25, 2010 at 12:07 pm #62162Andy CarsonModeratorErika,
You are kinda at the edge of my knowledge with this question, but I will speculate. In my field (which was all corn last year and was not cropped this year) a disk was all that was needed to reduce weeds and prepare a seedbed. Granted, the corn stalks (which were not chopped) have been a purpetual challenge. Also, the weeds looked like they might win out for a while, but eventually they gave up (this corresponded to the time when the rains stopped). In the end, much of the plant residue remained on the top of the soil and capable of retaining moisture. This is similar to your field A, which produced OK for you. Perhaps field B would have produced better if disced and/or springtooth harrowed rather than plowed? Perhaps even a chisel would be appropriate if the depth is set so it won’t rip out your tiles. Also, I think it was important that I waited until a strong rain was forcast before seeding. I did this partially because I wanted to have a “safety net,” but in a year like this it seemed to be lucky. I certainly didn’t have a fine seed bed in many areas and other areas didn’t even get rolled, but a soaking rain (I think) made these factors irrelevant (except for the clover). Waiting for rain could have easily been the wrong descision with a couple weeks of lost growth if rain had come. Perhaps a true grain drill would help in your situation as well. I think that’s all my thoughts, and I hope they help, remember I am not an expert.September 25, 2010 at 2:12 pm #62145OldKatParticipant@dominiquer60 20989 wrote:
…
So far we have received a tenth of an inch here and a three tenths there with above average temps.… Any ideas of what I did wrong or rather do you have a different approach that I could try in the future to conserve moisture in a less than ideal cover crop seeding season? …
Thanks in advance,
Erika
PS We are talking tractor farming here, cattle are slowly getting worked into the mix as they grow, change is slow sometimes.
Erika, welcome to my world.
I have had these exact same moisture issues nearly every year for the past 15 to 20 years. Minimal rainfall during the summer, especially late in the summer, coupled with very high temps turns the blackland into something that seems to be harder than asphalt, but not quite as hard as concrete!
The sandy land can be disked and a nice seed bed prepared, but unless we get rain early in the fall we see no germination on the fall wheat, oats or rye. Sometimes ryegrass will sprout, but unless we get enough moisture to keep it going it will burn up fairly quickly. Last year I didn’t get any rain to speak of until December. Got some minimal germination, by that time it was too cold to get any real growth. It was an ugly winter, at least by our standards. No winter grazing and hay was sky high because of the record breaking drought. That is why I am now down to less than 3 dozen cows.
Anyway, I don’t know that there is a good answer to this problem. Maybe move to somewhere that gets more timely rain? I am going next week to look at some property about 500 miles north of where I live & one of the main things I like about that area is that they seem to get more consistent rain in the summer and fall. That and the land up there sells for about 20% of what it does where I live. Not everybody has that option, up and move, but it was I am looking at for now.
Good luck, because what you are up against is tough.
September 25, 2010 at 3:49 pm #62150Tim HarriganParticipantdominiquer60;20989 wrote:… Any ideas of what I did wrong or rather do you have a different approach that I could try in the future to conserve moisture in a less than ideal cover crop seeding season?This is one of the drawbacks of using cover crops. If you do not get timely rain the work and cost of establishment are wasted or disappointing. This also shows the challenge of relying on tillage for weed control. Tillage dries and warms the soil. Fallow with intermittent tillage is a good way to reduce weed pressure if you have occasional rain to germinate the weed seeds followed by dry periods for tillage and dessication. But with no rain the soil is too dry for weed seed germination, and too dry to establish the cover crop.
You need moisture from either rain or capillary rise. You had little rain, and the tillage that you used (moldboard, disk) pretty much eliminated capillary rise. Your growth window for oats and peas is starting to close with frost coming in a month or so. So you plant and hope for rain that may come too late. You may need to reseed rye if you want a winter cover.
A brillion seeder is great for clovers, alfalfa, some grasses, etc. It is a shallow seeder that works well in a fine seedbed. Oats and peas will respond better when seeded deeper, maybe an inch or so. A harrow will mix the soil but leave the seed at variable depth. A disk might be better for covering such large seeds. A good timely rain will compensate for shallow or surface seeding, but no rain shows the weakness of that approach. A drill would be better because you could seed deeper where there may be enough moisture for germination and growth.
Tillage is bit of a fight with nature. Think about how seeds are distributed and establish in nature. Seeds fall to the ground and move by wind or rain (or manure from birds or grazing animals) and become lodged beneath crop residue or a crack in the soil. These are protected micro-climates that are resistant to wide swings in soil temperature and moisture that inhibits germination. The percent of seeds that find suitable sites is low, but nature is patient. Your finely prepared seedbed is dry, no crop residue cover to conserve moisture or moderate temperature. Seeds at or near the surface suffer wide swings in temperature. No rain, no crop. Good seed to soil contact is not enough in these conditions, so an additional disking might not be the answer.
I have had good luck seeding in some very rough conditions. For example, after tilling with a rotary tiller set a couple inches deep, low tiller speed and fast ground speed to just chunk up the soil rather than pulverize it to a fine seedbed. Then broadcast the seed over the top and pack the soil with ATV wheels. The seeds were at variable depths, some deeper than they should have been, but because the soil was clumpy the seeds were able to germinate (from a protected micro-climate) and grow out from cracks and fissures in the soil because there was light and not a lot of resistance for the emerging seedling to push through. Moisture from capillary rise was possible because soil disturbance was neither deep nor intensive. When it did rain, the seed and soil were resistant to erosion because of the rough, residue covered surface.
Sometimes our idea of a good seedbed is not borne out in seed germination and growth. I have been doing quite a bit of puzzling over seed comfort related to work in integrating manure with cover crop establishment. I have been seeding in some rough seedbeds with little thought to seed/soil contact but using tillage to create protected micro-climates with more stable temperature and moisture. Check out this video on slurry seeding at the Blight Farm http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3st0qZ_3vH0 You can also access it from the Midwest Cover Crops Council web site http://www.mccc.msu.edu/SlurrySeeding.html
I posted some pics from the site somewhere on this site a week or so ago, and sometime this week I will tack a few more minutes on the Blight video to show cover crop growth. The soil surface you see right behind the aeration tillage tool is the final seedbed, the seed was added to the liquid slurry and seeded with the liquid manure. I also no-till drilled the covers in alternate strips and the same day went over the top of the drilled crop with aeration tillage and manure, knowing that the aeration tillage tool would undo the seed to soil contact from the drill. Great stands in both cases.
It is always interesting to challenge our perception of what a comfortable seed environment really is.
September 26, 2010 at 1:24 am #62141dominiquer60ModeratorThanks guys for the reply. It has been a challenging year in our droughty clay soil, it bakes like a brick. I did seed these oats and peas down before a forecasted rain, but like all the rain in the last 9 weeks, it never amounted to anything. A couple weeks ago we got 4/10 of an inch and it only moistened the top three inches of soil, just dust underneath. Of course the long range for the next two months is below average rainfall. Our trees are already turning and many are barren of leaves too.
Last night we tried watering this 1/3 acre oats and pea seeding on Field B, we used 2400 gallons of water which is two firetrucks worth of water, I wish I had a video for you all. It may not amount to much I fear.
You are right about the bare fallow Tim, without the rain it doesn’t work well, fortunately we had just enough to have a few flushes of weeds in field A.
Right now we are struggling wondering what to do with the 8+ acres of winter rye that we want to seed. We have many different scenarios to deal with. First field was silage corn on a normally dry hilltop, it has been chiseled and disced, it is nice and fluffy waiting for seed and rain. Second field was sweet corn that never had enough water to make a saleable crop and some fallow ground, still working on chopping corn to feed the beef. Third field was rye on normally wetter ground, a good amount of grass and clover volunteered after harvest and my two have been rotated over it the last 3 weeks, they have a couple days left before we would like to work it up a bit. Fourth area is on the flat near my original field B, different strips of vegetables that burnt out with the drought and heat, usually a high water table. I plowed it up a couple weeks back and have been waiting for enough rain to make discing somewhat effective, it is just hard clumps at the moment.
I would like to chisel where my cattle are, but the guys don’t want to hit the two old tile lines in that field. I know you can adjust a chisel plow to go shallow, but they are rather gun shy about trying it. We will see what happens with weather, moods and all.
Erika
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