DAPNET Forums Archive › Forums › Equipment Category › Equipment › Interesting Tree cutting technique (video)
- This topic has 12 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 13 years, 10 months ago by vthorselogger.
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- January 12, 2011 at 4:01 am #42300Simple LivingParticipant
I found this video while looking at some other video someone had posted. This looks to be very similar to what most of you use now with the hinge and wedge method.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zQ3kDa0JUWo&feature=rec-LGOUT-real_rev-rn-2r-4-HM
Gordon
PS.
I think you tube is Latin for “how to waste a couple hours” !!January 12, 2011 at 2:35 pm #64748vthorseloggerParticipantNice video. I wonder if they took the game of logging. The guy running the saw never kept his thumb wrapped under the handle. That is a big no no. If kick back occurs you don’t have enough control of the saw to stop it and a serious injury can happen. good video to watch though.
January 12, 2011 at 2:38 pm #64744mitchmaineParticipantThat was painful. He sure made a project out of hacking away at that tree. A beaver might have done a better job. Don’t seem like he had to cut the center out of so small a tree? And either his rakers were down too low or he tried sawing a rock, but his saw was dull as a hoe. And the guy comin’ in to sweep up that mess is gonna shoot him cause he dropped trees to every point on the compass. Maybe they cut wood different in Sweden, or its just snowin out and I have to plow and want to be in the woods that’s makin me grumpy and pickin on this poor fella.
January 12, 2011 at 3:03 pm #64737Carl RussellModeratorI have to agree Mitch….. what was this supposed to demonstrate??? There wasn’t two cuts that lined up. There was no reason to take that much time making all the different felling cuts. The face cut didn’t even line up so the hinge broke so the tree didn’t even go where he wanted.
Carl
January 12, 2011 at 3:15 pm #64740Scott GParticipantPersonally, I prefer this method (sic) ….:cool:
January 12, 2011 at 4:28 pm #64742Simple LivingParticipantOk, You have all confirmed my thoughts as to “what the heck is he doing that for?” I don’t personally do any logging but have taken down a few trees and have found the latch and hinge to work very well. I do have to agree with Scott, that might be the most entertaining way to take down a tree!!
Gordon
January 12, 2011 at 5:36 pm #64745mitchmaineParticipantouch! scott, what was that all about???????????????
January 12, 2011 at 6:16 pm #64746mitchmaineParticipantcarl, scott. correct me. if i started my backcut with a bore cut and came straight back parallel with the hinge til the tip popped out the other side, pulled the saw and set it back in that hole and finshed the backcut leaving that livewood to hold the tree wouldn’t you atleast have a backcut with one plane? isthat the proper method of making that cut?
and more importantly, if you looked up and saw (knew) your tree was going over where you wanted it, would you bother to go through all the motions or just cut it?mitch
January 12, 2011 at 10:56 pm #64738Carl RussellModeratorNice Scott.
Mitch, I always bore in to set the hinge, and cut backwards out of the tree. I also always leave trigger wood. It really shouldn’t take all that much time. There are some trees that I do take pretty lightly, but I have learned to use the bore-cut-trigger method nearly 100% of the time.
Ok, You have all confirmed my thoughts as to “what the heck is he doing that for?” I don’t personally do any logging but have taken down a few trees and have found the latch and hinge to work very well. I do have to agree with Scott, that might be the most entertaining way to take down a tree!! Gordon
Gordon, the technique was basically appropriate, it was mostly his execution that was seriously lacking.
January 13, 2011 at 12:16 am #64743Tim HarriganParticipant@Carl Russell 23722 wrote:
I have learned to use the bore-cut-trigger method nearly 100% of the time.
But I don’t think you typically make a plunge cut through the face?
January 13, 2011 at 12:48 am #64739Carl RussellModeratorTim Harrigan;23723 wrote:But I don’t think you typically make a plunge cut through the face?Right…. rarely….. sometimes on very big tree so that I can get an even hinge and cut out the center.
Carl
January 13, 2011 at 1:44 am #64741Scott GParticipantMy take is pretty much what has already been said.
The man made felling that tree way to complicated and his myriad of cuts weren’t that well done. I like Mitch’s analogy of a beaver, the two cut face resembled that… But as others have said, I don’t want to beat up on the guy.
The face bore is handy for significantly oversize material when you are working with a very short bar, and that is the only reason IMHO.
Removing the center of your hinge is no better/different than reducing your hinge thichness across its width to accomplish the same goal. I would argue that there is more stability/control with a hinge that spans the diameter of the butt vs two short lateral “mini-hinges”
Mitch’s question of the backcut/pre-setting the hinge & then backing until you reach your latch on diameters greater than bar length; yes, I will move over to the other side, continue from the visible bore back towards the hinge. You end up with a nice level cut that way. The sloping cut on the face in big timber you start with “rolling” your saw on the off side towards you in order to span the distance. The same goes for the horizontal cut on the face. Turns out nice & clean and you don’t end up with a “beaver” face as shown on the video. Keep the sloping cut on the face steep to maintain control all the way down without snapping off the hinge prematurely and getting fiber pull that may degrade your butt log.
Mitch, as far as just wacking it if the tree is already leaning in the direction you want it to go, depends. I’ll often do traditional backcuts in pole-sized timber when the strip layout is going with the direction of the predominant wind direction for the site. They will fall just like dominoes and it is more time efficient than pre-setting hinges on each stick. What causes major issues is one of the most dangerous situations an inexperienced feller (chopper) faces in the woods, heavy leaners. Trees that have a radical lean have a tremendous amount of tension opposite of the lean. When backcut in a traditional fashion from the backside (no hinge preset) the tension often reaches a critical point and rips apart well before the feller has reduced the hinge. This can/will create a “barber chair”. I have seen butts almost explode on people when this happens. The situation can clean your clock for the last time, bad juju. It is critical to always pre-set your hinge in this situation and leave an adequate trigger. Besides, it makes a really cool loud “pop’ when you cut the trigger 😉
Speaking of explosions on a lighter note 🙂 Explosives have really caught on with the wildland firefighter crowd. Removal of hazard trees, creating fireline, etc.. As in most things with fire suppression I think they have went overboard on some/most situations.
I was pulled off the line on a fire a couple of years ago by our FMO so I could help/witness explosives being used to take down this 5′ d.b.h. cottonwood “hazard” tree. The FMO, local bomb squad guy (aka wack job), and myself put about 50# explosives wrapped around the trunk with duck tape, primed it, and went to hide in a ditch about 100 yards away. Popped it off and I swear 10′ of the bottom log just went missing. In that blink of the eye it looked like this 60′ tree was standing upright in mid-air all by itself. Then, of course, the only large piece of wood blown any distance came gunning right for us, a 6′ long piece did an end-over-end towards our little piece of paradise in the ditch. Lucky it landed about 15′ from us… All in all, seconds of fun and a helluva mess to clean up afterwards.
January 13, 2011 at 3:09 am #64747AnonymousInactiveBack when I was cutting for a mill we would always center bore a possible veneer log. The idea was that you wouldn’t get fiber pull, which usually happens towards the center off the log.
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