Having trust issues

I had a lot of luck working my horses in a round pen when I first got them. There is a lot of material out there on roundpenning (Doc Hammill, Clinton Anderson, etc.) The round pen really helps establish you as leader and sets up an effective mode of communication between you and the horse.

George

I use a liverpool or other levered bit on my animals all the time. Used properly this is as mild of a bit as you could want, but also gives you the options of different settings that help the individual animal pay attention when needed.

Please don’t take this the wrong way, but the word coaxing in your first post made me a little nervous. I am not that familiar with CA but I doubt there is much coaxing. When you enter the barn stop wishing they would all like you and come right over. Start to wish they would stay out of your way. Now when you need a horse to catch or tie up; act decisively, “this is what we are doing now, if you walk away from me that will be a choice that you made, but not the right one”. Good luck.

I worked with a ten year old gelding a few years ago that had been ridden, but never driven. It was much harder than I expected. He was very smart and made it appear that each lesson went very quickly, But when he challenged the whole idea of working, he put everything into it. Every horse is different though. Don’t with hold too much feed!

I use both bits – the liverpool on two of my more “willing” boys and a snaffle on one who wont get out of low gear –
as for horses not coming to halter it is a bad choice on their part and they are asked to leave – horses are creatures of habit and will develop a relation ship with you based on trust and routine – you had a routine going and took time off, loosing your place as leader and will have to re establish your role-
John

Just had a horse here with many of the same issues. A 9 year old mare not broke who had dominance problems as well as kicking. I started her by lunging on a lung line in 20m circle ( because I don’t have a round pen) to establish my role an leader and voice commands. She took some time but did eventualy sart to come to me and connect by wanting to smell my breath and follow when I moved away. At this point it was time to hook her because of the pretraining and relationship building when she tried to runaway my whoa stoped her not the snaffle bit. After some praising she walked off as if nothing happened. Hooked her a few more times at home on a tire and took her to the woods.

It takes in my expierience more time and understanding to get a older horse sarted in harness than a 4year old. I like to do a little bit with obsenant horses several times a day putting the horse back in the barn to think about the lesson. Never starting a fight if there is a way around it and ending on a positive note. Almost any horse can have thier behavoir improved. 🙂

Tristan

Start with low energy an use more energy after the animal has clearly rejected an invitation from you. I try never to approach from the butt. It is rude on their part, but I don’t try to send them all over the paddock if I don’t have to. If a horse will stay I will approach from the front quarter and halter the horse.

Some people have different standards about what they expect from horses that are loose on pasture. My horses get no grain ever, getting brought in usually means a harness and work. I don’t expect them to come running to see me with joy. I expect them to understand my rules, and know what I will and won’t except. Stand to be haltered, wait until all four or six are haltered, lead together as a group. Sometimes I walk to were they are.

Allow your self time to become comfortable with these exercises, they will become natural with time.