DAPNET Forums Archive › Forums › Sustainable Living and Land use › Sustainable Farming › Chicken Tractor
- This topic has 23 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 13 years, 6 months ago by jac.
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- April 22, 2011 at 6:54 pm #42652Jim GarvinParticipant
Here are a couple of pictures of the chicken tractor that Ed (Highway), my son and I just got through building. The one end appears to be open above the plywood sides, but it’s actually clear plexi-glass.
Our 60 meat bird chicks arrive on May 4th. Watch out, Colonel Sanders!!
April 22, 2011 at 9:54 pm #67011RodParticipantVery nice job.
April 23, 2011 at 12:35 am #67027minkParticipantif it rains do you need to tarp the whole thing or are the birds smart enough to go to the tarped end? from what i’ve read the cornish cross birds grow like crazy. guess all the do is eat , crap, and grow. supposedly only 8 weeks from start to finish.
April 23, 2011 at 1:02 am #67022Jim GarvinParticipantThe tarp is primarly used for shade purposes. It’s folded back about 4′ in its current configuration. This is really a “learn-as-we-go” kind of arrangement. Of all we’ve read, it should be a relatively simple process. We’ll keep you posted.
April 23, 2011 at 2:04 am #67018dominiquer60ModeratorThis looks great and rather fancy with the plexy. This is a great size for 60.
If you are dressing this flock in early July (8 weeks after May 4th), one thing to remember is that these birds cannot take the heat. I have had cornish crosses with ice water and all the shade that they want just up and die right before butchering because of extreme heat. Once they are big enough and if it gets hot out you may want to increase the ventilation on the shaded side. Two ways that come to mind is to remove the ply wood and or plexy and use wire to allow air to flow, and/or move the tarp so that it is ~18″ above ground level and situate the tractor to catch a good cross breeze. Sometimes we found tarps inadequate at providing enough shade and ended up using shade cloth as well, but yours looks to be of a high grade and should do just fine.
Your set up looks good as it is for your chicks when they are younger and will want a place to get out of a breeze, just be flexible and adjust your set up as needed.
Good Luck,
Erika
April 23, 2011 at 11:58 am #67012Does’ LeapParticipantJim, nice work! We used the same set-up for years, inspired by J Salatin. We now use the same shelter but have the birds enclosed in 1-2 electrified poultry net (purchased at Kencove). They forage in their paddock and loaf and sleep in their shelter. We move the fence when the grass in soiled (every 4 days or so). This new system has led to a lot less overheating b/c the birds aren’t so closely packed together and they tend to grow faster and forage more. J Salatin argues the opposite, but in my experience the open set-up works better and is easier on these precarious birds.
George
April 23, 2011 at 2:38 pm #67023Jim GarvinParticipantThanks for the replies and comments, Erika & George. We’re both new to this and will likely be “leaning” on more knowledgeable people along the way. The original thought was to keep them in the tractor for the eight weeks, moving them everyday once they start growing. But, I’m contemplating doing what you do, George, by making them a “paddock” area using electric fencing to cut down on the number of times they have to be moved. The fencing is a bit pricey, but it’ll probably pay for itself in the long haul.
April 23, 2011 at 7:46 pm #67013Does’ LeapParticipantJim, I should mention that we keep them in the house for the first 2-3 weeks after they are out of the brooder. Even if you decide to keep them in a house, it is advisable to have electric netting for predator control. Weasels and even coons and foxes can dig under those houses and feast. I built a slick chicken plucker based on some easy-to-follow plans http://whizbangbooks.blogspot.com/ It works pretty slick and is easy, if not time-consuming, to build. Plucking chickens by hand is the pits. Here’s a video (not me, but shows it’s effectiveness) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-pbRxIlpuw This fellow is only plucking one, I have done 4 at a time. Friends have used my plucker to turkeys and ducks as well.
Chickens are easy to raise and great eating. Have fun with it.
George
April 23, 2011 at 8:00 pm #67024Jim GarvinParticipantGeorge…we plan on keeping them in the tractor as you’ve suggested. I was curious about the chicken wire and if I needed to put hardware cloth over it for the first two feet up the sides. Your opinion? Also, which fence from Kencove do you use and also which charger?
As far as the plucking goes, a good friend of ours (who lives a couple farms down the road) has a commercial scalder and plucker that she’s offered us to use. Really nice of her, for sure!!
Thanks for your help!!
April 24, 2011 at 12:07 am #67021OldKatParticipantNice job on the CT, Jim Garvin.
Does Leep George; About 3 years ago I saw one of those home made chickem pluckers at an Amish community near Beeville, Tx. Looked nearly exactly like the one in the video, but I think it may have had an extra row or two of fingers further up the tub.
For the life of me I can’t remember how they got the electricity to run it. Must have had a generator there, but I don’t recall seeing it or hearing it. It worked though. Someone had brought in about a 24′ cattle trailer with a solid roof on it and the floor was completely covered with chickens. There were probably 3 Amish men and 20 Amish women cleaning chickens for them and they were getting after it. I was wondering where they got the design for that plucker. Guess I know now.
April 24, 2011 at 12:17 am #67014Does’ LeapParticipantJim:
I don’t think hardware cloth is necessary. If you keep them in the brooder for a week or 10 days, they will be big enough so the chicken wire will contain them. Here is the net I have from Kencove http://www.kencove.com/fence/Electric+Net+Fencing_detail_NSPCG.php
I don’t know what you have for an energizer for your horses, but it might power the poultry net without a problem. Aim for 3500 volts minimum, 4000 to 5000 is ideal. On the link with the net fence, they mention .25 joules / net, I would go .5 joules minimum. I would call Kencove and see what they recommend. If you invest in an energizer, I suggest buying twice the output you think you need. I have a 48 joule engergizer and I max it out regularly.
George
April 24, 2011 at 1:29 am #67025Jim GarvinParticipantThe hardware cloth is being considered more for predator control versus the chickens getting out through it.
Thanks for the info on the fence you have. I’m sure my horse fense charger will handle the extra chicken fencing, but I’ll check with Kencove when I call them.
April 24, 2011 at 10:13 am #67015Does’ LeapParticipantThe problem with those predators, weasels especially, is they go under the house not through it. Even if you are on totally flat ground (a rarity on my farm), they can still burrow. I have also had rats eat started chicks. If you don’t have a lot of those critters around you, you should be fine, but you never know.
Good luck.
George
April 24, 2011 at 8:48 pm #67028minkParticipantgeorge are you saying that the cornish crosses only need heat for a week or 10 days or did i misunderstand?
April 25, 2011 at 1:03 am #67016Does’ LeapParticipantMink, that has been my experience. I usually give them a week of heat (more or less) and keep them in the brooder for a couple of more days. I try to wean them from the heat as quickly as possible, turning the lamp off during the day provided the temperature is not below 70 (this is after they are a couple of days old). They grow so fast that you are usually faced with enlarging your brooder or getting them outside. I usally opt for the latter.
George
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