Types of yokes for the D-Ring Harness

Hi jen. I have used both types of yokes. I think that the only real difference is purely simpliciity , less moving parts, and cost. I think if you measure vertically the single piece yoke and compare to the jokey yoke situation the pole will naturally carry itself lower on the jockey yokes vs. the single neck yoke as well. Were both poles the same length? Is the pin type, the type that stabs into the end of the pole? That yoke will be further out on the pole and thus the hitch, looser on that pole using the ring style yoke on the same pole by inches. Now this is just an observation from a novice, and I am sure you will get more replies to your question; but it looks like you could have raised the pole a little more by dropping a link or two more links on the tugs in the pic and been fine. Other than that I hope your parade went well. Looks like a good turn out. Oh yes, and a nice team to boot!

Larry

Hi Jenn, Dropping a link is another way of saying to shorten the tug by one link. You both said “raise the tongue by shortening the tug”. I thought it looked high enough. I struggle to get my my horses hooked tight enough some times. I find the D ring unforgiving for hooking to a cart that is already hooked to something else; IE. you can’t move the cart at all while hooking. My only concern with that one piece style of neck yoke is not allowing the jockey yoke to move with the shoulders as the animal walks. Since it is going directly to the D ring maybe that doesn’t matter. I have been planning to make my self some new yokes this fall, so I will be interested to hear other responses. Donn

With regard to “looseness” in hooking –
too loose = potential neck yoke sliding off end of pole (assuming you’re using that style) but
too tight = no room for horses to step back from tension when at rest w/o moving the load backwards.

So I guess I’ll ask – do you all want some slack in the “suspension” btwn neck yoke and singletree? Not drooping but visible lack of tension on the traces.

Carl, I hear you about hooking with a knee on the evener. I think the thing I am lacking so far is horses that instinctively lean back. This is still new for them. When you move them back with the lines it is tricky. Don’t want a lot of moving while hooking. I am getting better at it, but my interns are still struggling a little. I also have to make myself some new tongues. Most of my equipment is hooked on the third link. My gas powered cart is using one or two links. This doesn’t leave a lot of room for my big mares, and the pole really isn’t high enough. I would also like to make my front side straps two inches longer, but will have to wait for the new tongue. My brother cut a tongue for the PTO cart so I should be able to change that soon. Must do it before NEAPFD! Today will test the horses baling in 89 degree heat. My last day of first cutting.

“The straight yoke is made for people who think that horses should sweep, or step sideways, whenever they are turning.”

Carl,

Would the straight yoke be good for helping train a team to sweep? Mine have a tendency to always want to walk forward as they turn, sometimes I just want them to side step to get around somethuing i.e. stump or rock.

Fred

I echo George’s comment. Carl & I went around on this on a thread a year or so ago.
While I don’t doubt that leaving your near side front side strap(FSS) (from the D-ring to the jockey yoke) on your near horse (left & left) adjusted in its “hitched” position while hooking to an implement is doable, particularly for some one who is rugged, I believe that George’s method is easier (takes less strength) for a couple of reasons.
If the FSS is “tight”, in order to hook the last trace the chosen link must be brought back past the point of the hook on the wiffletree (or tug, depending on the style). This distance of a couple inches can be quite a challenge. When using the FSS tightening method this is not a factor.
Also, as Carl pointed out, as you tighten the last tug the resistance you are overcoming is the weight of the pole as it pivots at the implement end and the front rises. You are also lifting the neckyoke assembly. I find that when I tighten the FSS last, I stand in front of the horses facing the rear with the outside end of the near horse’s jockey yoke on my left upper thigh or hip. As I draw the strap end towards me I can directly lift the yoke (and pole end) with my body.
Also, it may be worth mentioning that even w the FSS loose the horses need to be standing not too far forward to hook the tugs. If your horses are not standing evenly when you hook the last one and assuming that you hook the near side of the near horse last, remember that if your off horse eases back the near side of your evener will pivot forward making it easier to hitch.
I hope this is helpful.
Mark

@Jen Judkins 28103 wrote:

I was more interested in the differences between the yoke styles.

Jen:

I am a big fan of the plug yoke – tight, neat, functional, and safe. Here’s the link:

http://www.draftanimalpower.com/showthread.php?2646-Barden-style-neck-yoke&highlight=plug+yoke

George