DAPNET Forums Archive › Forums › Draft Animal Power › Oxen › Techniques for limiting feed to mature oxen
- This topic has 23 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 12 years, 4 months ago by Peace of Earth Farm.
- AuthorPosts
- October 5, 2011 at 5:58 pm #43090Andy CarsonModerator
I have been reading more about feeding mature oxen and it seems that keeping them from getting fat can be a challenge. Winter seems easier b/c you can monitor the hay consumption, but in seasons where the oxen are on pasture it might be substantially mroe difficult to limit feed in a convient way. I was hoping that they could be turned out onto pasture overnight (as I do with my horses) but I wonder if when the pasture is green and lush (IE spring and fall) if this is a good management technique. I suppose I can just turn them out for a few hours and put them back in a sacrifice area without feed, but I wonder if it is good for cattle to only eat for a short period of time once a day. I could make very small rotational pastures, or possible tether them (is this a good idea?) but I think they would likely overgraze a small area if kept there a long time. It defeats the purpose of having them if they can’t graze, and I don’t want to have to get into some sort of ruitine where I am constantly leading them around to make sure they don’t eat too much, but don’t overgraze the grass either… I am curious what practices others use, please share. I am just trying to envision how this will work for me and make sure it’s practical. Additionally, I would like to use some half acre plots that I will eventually be tilling and planting as sacrifice areas for the oxen in convient times throughout the year. The idea is that they will eat, trample, muddy, and manure whatever vegetation is there. I have seen alot of vegetation free (and torn up) feedlots, and am curious if a couple oxen (and some rainfall) can substitute for a plow and also act as a biological grass elimination system just milling around. I think I would still probably follow with some tillage before planting, but I think this could be helpful. I worry about erosion though (even though it’s fairy flat) and the potential for soil compaction. Comments, thoughts, and suggestions are always appreciated.
October 6, 2011 at 12:35 am #69410Crabapple FarmParticipantTurning the oxen out overnight is certainly feasible. As is small paddock sizes. If you are worried about turning them out on lush pasture in the spring, just give them a small paddock at a time, after feeding hay. If they are only on it for a day (or night) there isn’t much danger of them damaging the pasture from overgrazing (though if it’s wet they can plug it up quickly). In the fall, they are used to grass, so the lushness isn’t really an issue (in my opinion).
It is definately something to consider when buying a team, as some breeds are much more likely to “put on condition” than others.
One trick about limiting feed during the summer months is that it is going to make them really want to sneak some grass anytime you are trying to work them in the field. Muzzles can help, but it can be a real pain getting them to stand in a lush field if they are on short rations. A bit over a week ago I was trying to cart some wheat straw out of the field by myself, and I had to stop loading the cart every couple minutes to tell them to back up – I had undersown the wheat with clover, which at this point has well overgrown the stubble, is really lush and way too tempting. Eventually I quit and decided that I needed to leave that task for a time when I could have an assistant so someone could stand at their heads and keep their minds on the job. And they’re pastured with the milk cows and have more condition than they ought, so they certainly aren’t starving.
The best way to keep them from getting fat is to work them. It will really only be an issue if you are going to use them only occasionally, but want them to work hard on those occasions. If they get overweight, it just means that you will need to work up to difficult tasks, as they will be out of shape. If they are skinny but haven’t worked much, they aren’t necessarily going to be any more able to do serious work. Unless you’re going to be in pulling competitions at the fair (trying to be in a certain weight class), I wouldn’t worry about them putting on a few extra pounds during the summer in their old age.On the cattle as tillage question, compaction is certainly a serious concern. It depends a bit on your soil type how big of an issue this is. Last fall and into the winter I fed our beef herd hay in a field section that I was planning on plowing this spring. We had some thaws turning it to mud, so there was some pretty serious compaction. I used a chisel plow on that section, as deep as I could with the tractor. With that loosening, we had a real nice crop of winter squash. I don’t think the squash would have done nearly as well if I hadn’t been able to loosen the soil up after the cows plugged it.
Cow plugged soil doesn’t seem to erode much here – with all the little holes to puddle in I think the water can’t work up much velocity. But we’ve got a heavy soil, which in the cattle yard is a pretty sticky muck – in a lighter soil erosion might be more of an issue than the compaction that I worry about.
-TevisOctober 6, 2011 at 12:57 pm #69415Andy CarsonModeratorThanks Tevis,
It seems I was making this more complicated than it needed to be. I will have to do a little more thinking about a rotating sacrifice area concept as it’s not neccessary that this be part of my management ruitine. You mention that some oxen breeds put on weight easier than others. The breeds I am most interested in right now are Devons and Ayrshires as I think these are likely to be faster walkers. Is it easier to keep these more active types from getting fat too? These breeds might not be the best choice for a beginner, but I tend to like more forward animals…October 6, 2011 at 11:33 pm #69425BaystatetomParticipantNot sure what putting them out overnight would accomplish. I put bells on my daughters team and the neighbors asked me to take them off because they evidently walked around all night long, I would assume grazing.
In my opinion even the most nervous cattle breeds are still more even keeled then the average horse. If you are used to working with horses you should have a easy transition. I have always wanted ayrshires myself mostly because I like the way they look. When I had 4H oxen as a kid somebody had a mature pair they brought around to all the fairs and I always loved them. I just thought with my little kids always running around I shouldn’t get a breed known for being jumpy, maybe the next ones though.October 7, 2011 at 12:25 am #69416Andy CarsonModeratorSo you don’t limit their grazing at all? I have to limit my horses grazing to half a day or they get too fat. I had just assumed that the oxen would need limited even more. Maybe not. Even if they had to be out only the day it’s not that hard. It sound like this isnt so much of an issue that I need to fret about it.
Is limiting feed to mature oxen a challange for anyone out there?
October 7, 2011 at 1:32 pm #69426BaystatetomParticipantI did keep a pair of herford/holsiens until they were 6, other then that I never had a pair above age 4. The smaller younger teams were better for the 4H stuff. I can say however that my teams are always well fed. Like you I want to do real work with them as soon as possible so I am hoping good pasture and high protein grain will make them bigger faster. My pasture is a mile from my barn so once they are out, they are out for the summer. Guys who are into pulling definitely limit feed to try and stay in the lowest weight class possible. Those oxen look like professional athletes with a very low fat percentage (then again they are athletes). I only grain mine in the winter, when the pasture looks good that’s all they get. Just work them hard and they will stay in shape. I know a guy that bought a 4000 pound team of shorthorns and got them done to 3200 in two months just by dragging a tractor tire around his field everyday. Not sure but he might have lost a couple pounds too.
I know very little about horses but if you hand me the reins I can drive better then somebody who has never had draft animals for sure. The demeanor of the teamster and the sound of your voice are the most important things if you ask me, and that should be the same.October 7, 2011 at 3:06 pm #69422mitchmaineParticipanthey tom, those guys in the pulling ring don’t spare the feed. sweepstake horses often eat a BAG of grain, yes, fifty pounds, per day, and exercise on a light drag for four or six hours with a few heavy pulls. everybody does it a little different, but the key is water. just before you weigh in, you hold their water and throw on a blanket and they will sweat a hundred fifty pounds of water. after they come off the scales and a horse with a 29 inch collar is in the 3300 class, they start drinking and turn back into dinosaurs on steroids. oh, did i mention the steroids?
October 7, 2011 at 7:28 pm #69427BaystatetomParticipantI weighed in fifty pounds high one time and just brought my steers for a mile long jog, when I hit the scales a half hour later they were 100 pounds lighter. I hate buying a bag a week! Never mind a bag a day.
October 7, 2011 at 7:55 pm #69423mitchmaineParticipanti remember thirty five years ago, one fella driving clear to michigan to buy a horse, gave $16,000. to match another horse so he could win a blue ribbon and the forty dollar premium that went with it. never made sense to me, but entertainment comes at a cost up here in the winter.
October 9, 2011 at 5:57 pm #69428BaystatetomParticipant@mitchmaine 29378 wrote:
i remember thirty five years ago, one fella driving clear to michigan to buy a horse, gave $16,000. to match another horse so he could win a blue ribbon and the forty dollar premium that went with it. never made sense to me, but entertainment comes at a cost up here in the winter.
We all have our vices, some drink, some smoke or gamble, and some of us have draft animals.
May 9, 2012 at 3:44 pm #69417Andy CarsonModeratorSo I am now up against this problem of too much grass. I have been grazing my oxen overnight, but on rotated fresh pasture, this is very rich and is making them fat. I have already removed the grain. I have decided to take one pasture completely out of the rotation for now, maybe stockpile grass for summer… I think I’m going to divide my big pasture into four, all with access to the gate and the water. That will give me 6 fairly small grazing areas. I have been using areas this size for about 2 grazing nights. Sometimes I rest the cattle in the sacrifice area with hay (which they largely ignore) and/or lawn clippings (they love these, I spread them thin to prevent mold). This plan would give each area a rest of about 2 weeks to regrow before it gets grazed again. This kind of rotation (at least in my hands) makes super lush pasture, probably too rich for these boys in truth. I am thinking maybe I ought to purposely let the grass grow longer than would be ideal for grazing, and graze it a little longer than migh be ideal. This would reduce the forage quality and intake (which is a good thing for me), and I think the grass would still grow back OK. I have been very happy with the lack of pasture destruction by cattle. I even have grass growing back in my sacrifice area (granted, the grass in only 1.2 inch tall). Maybe 3 nights per area rather than 2… This would mean it would take almost 3 weeks to get around to the first area. I could alternate between hay and graze too, but they tend to leave the hay alone when they just came off of lush pasture so I think I would essentially be alternating between graze and fasting. Maybe this is OK, I suppose I like the concept of low levels of intact over low periods rather than “feast and fast”. Perhaps this is a horse habit… There has got to be an art to rotating pastures properly so that the grass is productive, but also not too rich. Anyone have any tips to share??? I think I’m going to have a couple more steers next spring, which should help with this problem.
May 10, 2012 at 7:19 pm #69411Tim HarriganParticipantAndy, I use movable polywire and give them a small piece of new pasture each day. Right now the grass is just kicking in so they get about 60 ft x 60 ft per day for about 5000-6000 lbs of steers. Other than that they have some lanes and sacrifice pasture that they have access to, but they keep it grazed down and they have to work for it. The polywire is nice because you can adjust paddock size daily based on how the grass is growing, and with this lush grass they do not need to be full to meet their nutrient requirements. I generally do not leave them in a big area for a few days if I can help it. If I do that they will eat in one day what I would give them in 3-4 days with small paddocks. And you are right, they don’t care for dry hay when they have been on lush pasture.
As far as timing, I advance the polywire in a line 30-60 feet wide, and I like to get them off it at the end so they do not have more than 10 days on an area from the start of the first paddock to the end. Generally, I like to leave 5-6 weeks regrowth before re-pasturing, but that floats because the growth rate changes quite a bit. Fast now, slow in July on, slower in June that May, depends on rainfall as well. Also depends on the nitrogen and fertility status of the crop. Now is a good time to let some go to hay, then pasture the regrowth probably starting in July.
So basically, with steers the age of yours, I would recommend feeding with pasture to satisfy their nutrient requirement and dry lot or sacrifice lot them for the rest of the day. If you just let the grass get old and rank it will get unpalatable and pretty much stop growing. I don’t like doing that, it does not seem like the best way to improve the pasture. A lot of it is just try some things and observe your pasture and see how it responds.
May 10, 2012 at 10:28 pm #69424DroveroneParticipantAMEN!
And thank god we are talking about taking weight off when there are starving animals in his economic disaster!May 16, 2012 at 12:38 pm #69418Andy CarsonModeratorI have been using your mobile polywire tip, Tim, and it has been working great. In my situation, it was easier to rotate the polywire around a central point (IE where the gate and the water are), creating grazing areas that are kind like the spaces between spokes on a wheel. Same concept, though. I like how I can control how much new grass the get (as this gives me good control over the bulk of thier intake), but they also have access to some of the areas that were recently grazed. This means they have grass they can nibble on and although they don’t get much from it when I get them out of the field, they are not totally “grass crazy” like they have been fasting in a totally grassless area.
May 17, 2012 at 2:08 am #69412Tim HarriganParticipantI like that system. It gives them some new grass every day and a ration that is fairly constant in quality and quantity. I think it is best if you can bring that polywire up behind them and keep them off it after 5-7 days. I am usually a little longer than that because of the length of the pasture, but then I keep them off for 4-6 weeks as it recovers. I have seen the pastures really improve over the last several years with this type of management.
- AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.