DAPNET Forums Archive › Forums › Draft Animal Power › Horses › took harness apart need some help now.
- This topic has 15 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 12 years, 8 months ago by PeytonM.
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- March 26, 2012 at 7:11 pm #43666PeytonMParticipant
ok so I always was a round single hitches and when I got my team I worked with the single hitch on them just to get use to them and how they would act and I took the reins off the team harness and took the part that splits off ( cant think of the name, it has a buckle on it) so I would just have strait reins. now I want to hook them as a team and I cant for the death of me get it figured out, I thought that buckle should face out and I did that and the team pulls away from each other and started to get grumpy so I went back to the single hitching them.
the main rein goes to the out side of each horse correct? then the part that I can think of with the buckle goes on the in side and through the rings on the hames
thanks for the help. Still green with my team.
March 26, 2012 at 8:06 pm #73122Lanny CollinsParticipantPeytonM, if you are riding a horse you refer to them as “reins” but if you are working with a single or team of horse in harness they are referred to as “lines”. Yes for a team the long single piece/line goes to the outside of each horse in a team. The short piece/line is called a “check line”. It has a buckle on one end and maybe a snap on the other end or some don’t like to use snaps so they hook them permanent. The “check line is usually 6 to 8” longer than the main line. Normally there are 2 or 3 holes in the main line so the check line can be moved to suit your need.
March 26, 2012 at 8:47 pm #73114greyParticipantYep, main line goes to the outside of each horse. Right hand main line goes to the right side of the right horse. Left hand main line goes to the left side of the left horse.
When you are re-attaching the check line to your main line, feed the check line through the hame ring of the same horse that the main line belongs to. THEN go to the bit of the other horse. For example: right main line goes through the right hame ring and then to the right side of the right horse. Then the check line of the right line goes through the RIGHT horse’s LEFT hame ring… then to the LEFT horse’s bit. Hope that makes sense.
If your horses are trying to walk too close together, adjust your check line length by moving the buckle forward toward the horses. If the horses are trying to walk too far apart, move the check line buckle back toward your hands.
Leather stretches over time, so you might want to do a “sanity check” with your lines. Attach your lines to the barn wall, pay them out and make sure that the holes for the check line buckles are in more-or-less the same place on each line. I’ve bought a pair of lines at auction without inspecting them too closely and come to find out they aren’t from the same set. Check line holes punched in different places. If they’ve ever been mended or spliced, same thing can happen. Just something to check if things don’t seem to be going the way they oughta.
March 26, 2012 at 10:55 pm #73124PeytonMParticipantOk now this is where I also am confused. Right hand horse is 18h left is 17.2 and on the main lines there are two differnent wear marks on the main lines from the check line buckles, what side should have more slack on the check line meaning buckles closer to the front of the line? I would assume its the one that has the main line on the taller horse
Is there any way to make the team walk close with out a pole cause that’s the only way they were hooked the day the guy dropped them off.. like I said really new with the team side of things.
March 27, 2012 at 12:07 am #73115greyParticipantNo, adjust your lines symmetrically. A 2″ height difference is nothing that requires compensation for.
If they are walking too far apart, bring your check buckles back toward your hands to bring the horses in toward each other. You can hook the neck yoke to the horses but it would probably be bonking them in the upper forelegs and furthermore it wouldn’t do much to keep them together. It’s really the lines that keep them together and not the pole or the neck yoke or any of that. Might want to use a butt rope, though, to keep them from turning inside-out on you.
March 27, 2012 at 3:08 am #73125PeytonMParticipantAlright im not gonna be able to team them up till weds. If I have enough day light after school thanks for the help
March 27, 2012 at 4:20 am #73121karl t pfisterParticipantGreat suggestion from Grey on the butt rope, to keep them from turning inside toward you .You lose all control in a hurry.
If a team has not been driven much without a pole and your inexperience all 3 of you can loose confidence quickly ,get someone with experience to help . sometimes it’s hard to see the whole picture when all you can see are 2 big butts in your face .
How old are the horses? how broke are they supposed to be ? Some horses can be driven fairly well with a pole and yoke with lines that are incorrectly adjusted ie ( when the fellow dropped them off ) Don’t be to convinced by the marks left by the buckle on the main reins that that’s where they should be buckled by for your team at this time . How about asking the fellow who dropped them off about the lines ? That’s great you saw them getting grumpy something’s causing that ,in fact it may not be the lines at all ??
Take it slow, The slow way is the fast way with horses. Unlearning something that happens in a fearful situation can be very slow.
good luck !March 27, 2012 at 5:52 am #73119near horseParticipantIf the horses are pulling away from each other (and assuming it’s related to a signal their receiving thru the lines) wouldn’t that be the cross check lines are too long, not too short? So all they would feel is a pull on the main line pulling them apart.
Definitely make sure you’re running the checklines through the correct hame ring as grey described above.
March 27, 2012 at 3:20 pm #73126PeytonMParticipantwell the shorter horse is 14 and the taller is 12. both are dead broke, I got them and went to skid a log with a single hitch with the shorter one got out there and for got to bring some stuff from the buildings, it was about a half mile walk out and I didnt want to walk back, He just stood there while I jumped on his back and I rode him down, didnt fuss once just used his normal driving commands.
They are a VERY mellow team, easy going, It was just alot to swallow at once when they dropped them off to learn cause the horses I drove before didnt use a collar set up they had a brest strap thing, so how the hames went and all that was new to me and have a harness stay all together and throwing it on all at once was also new, the harness I used before we took apart each time.
I think the reason they were turning away is cause I had the check lines going to the out side and the main lines to the inside.
I’m getting a wagon this sat. so I’ll be able to hook them up and try them out on a pole again I hope…
I ran them in single hitches after I kind of hand a blow out with them teamed up just so they wouldnt loose trust in me and I wouldnt loose confidence working with them.
where does that butt strap hook? around the britchen or what?
March 27, 2012 at 4:30 pm #73116greyParticipantIf the team is well-broke and you just need the butt strap to help prevent teamster error, then a strap connecting them at the inside britchen dees will work. However, you CAN tear harness that way if things go all pear-shaped. The safe way to do it – and the way you should do it with green horses – is to go from hame-to-hame. Start at the outside LOWER hame ring of one horse, run the rope around their butts, and come up to the outside LOWER hame ring of the other horse. The rope should be adjusted long enough that it is slack when they are the proper distance apart and only becomes snug when their butts fan out away from each other more than, oh, maybe 20 degrees off the imaginary pole between them.
To keep the rope from sagging down off their rumps, you can run it through the market strap (the strap that goes from the back pad down to the traces) and/or the outside hip straps (the “suspenders” that hold up the britchen) and/or the outside britchen rings. Don’t pass the rope under the INSIDE hip straps because that’s a good way to tear harness.
March 27, 2012 at 4:37 pm #73120near horseParticipantPeyton – great but make sure you and your horses are “comfortable” driving as a team on the ground before you hook up to a wagon. Wheeled vehicles don’t present much of a load so be absolutely sure you’ve got things adjusted right on the harness and you and your horses are on the same page.
Have fun, think one step ahead and be safe.
March 27, 2012 at 7:02 pm #73127PeytonMParticipantThanks for the help!
any small size rope will do I take it Greg?
Geoff, They’ve always tuned in real well I just had lines mixed up. I understand what your saying though.
March 27, 2012 at 9:31 pm #73117greyParticipantI use a nice, fat non-abrasive rope. Less chance of rope burn that way. Check and double-check everything. Attention to detail is key to safety when hitching and driving.
March 28, 2012 at 7:01 pm #73128PeytonMParticipantNylon rope work?
March 28, 2012 at 7:49 pm #73123Lanny CollinsParticipantCotton rope would be more soft less apt to burn.
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