Methods to protect the chain from rubbing

DAPNET Forums Archive Forums Draft Animal Power Oxen Methods to protect the chain from rubbing

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  • #43685
    Andy Carson
    Moderator

    Erika shared a photo of her team (link below), which got me to thinking about methods teamsters use to protect the chain from rubbing on the legs of thier oxen. I have seen a piece of hose and a fabric cover of some sort. I use a piece of 2 inch plastic pipe that I threaded the chain through. I am curious what other teamsters use and what they see as positives and negatives of different types of chaff/rub prevention for things you pull with a chain. Fabric over the chain seems nice, but the contact area still seems pretty small and you would likely have to be careful about the type of fabric you use. Not sure is you have to keep this really clean too, but I tend to not wash things as much as I should. A large diameter pipe seems to work well, but you can’t coil it up like a chain, so I end up dargging it round which is sometimes awkward, esp when backing. A fabric strap seems almost ideal, but I wonder if one would have to be careful about the type of fabric used or have to be careful to keep it clean… What can you say about your strap, Erika?

    http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150771589189042&set=a.274346979041.179721.679389041&type=3&theater

    #73227
    dominiquer60
    Moderator

    A good team (generally a show team) will not touch a pole or chain, but in the real world I don’t have a good show team and they rub the chain from time to time. I slip my chain through a length of fire hose. If you have friends in the local volunteer station, they generally have a hose or two that fails the annual pressure test, if you can get your hands on the right diameter you will be good to go for a long time. As far a cleaning, I don’t but you can take a brush or hose to it if you wanted to.

    #73233
    Andy Carson
    Moderator

    Ha, funny how much a firehose can look like a strap with a ring on the end! I had to double check… Mine rub the chain too, so I guess I don’t aheva good show team either.:D

    #73240
    Baystatetom
    Participant

    You can teach them to keep stepping out and avoid the chain. Some learn it on their own. I can’t recall ever seeing a chain rub enough to cause a problem. My guess is if it starts getting sore they will learn to step out a little on their own.

    #73241
    Kevin Cunningham
    Participant

    @Countymouse 33834 wrote:

    Ha, funny how much a firehose can look like a strap with a ring on the end! I had to double check…

    When I first saw that picture I thought it was some sort of tow strap as well. I thought maybe it was to put a little give in the pull, but then that doesn’t really make sense with oxen. With the new scar on Joe my team will only be showing in the misfit class, so I don’t think I have to worry about the rub either.

    #73234
    Andy Carson
    Moderator

    It is interesting that this topic brings up the point of if the team should touch the chain at all, and what the consequences for this ought to be. The first few times out, my nigh ox rubbed hard enough to remove hair and cause some bleeding. Not alot of bleeding, and the wound was not deep, but I didn’t like it and put the piece of plastic pipe on to prevent this in the future. The plastic pipe is large diameter, self cleans in the rain, is relatively slick, and is free to rotate around the chain, all of which probably add to comfort. Perhaps this makes being against the chain too comfortable? My team doesn’t let the chain ride on them, but still rubs on the chain/pipe enough during turns that if I didn’t have protection of some sort they (esp my nigh) would be sored. I had been overlooking this in general because I felt like there were more important things to focus on and figured that the team would figure out that thier legs need to get out of the way or they will get bothered by the obnoxious rattly thing that the chain with the pipe becomes when it’s rubbed. Obnoxious, but not painful. Maybe some teamsters use a less “comfortable” type of attachment to keep them off the chain? A little rubbing during turns becomes a big deal when I do field work, as there are so many turns.

    #73242
    Kevin Cunningham
    Participant

    This is interesting. I never even thought to try and not have them touch the chain at all. Of course I try and not make them turn too tightly, but I found that they rub the chain a little bit all the time. Now my boys are still young and not pulling tons so I wonder if I need to work on this with them now. I have never had the chain draw blood, yet, but if they get in the habit now maybe it will get worse when they are older. For me it is the off ox that contacts the chain more often on a gee turns. The nigh one stays pretty much out of the way on a haw turn. I can see this being a difficult habit to break once they are larger and set in their ways. I do like the pipe on the chain idea as it would have some slip as opposed to the fire hose that would still rub, but not pinch.

    #73222
    Carl Russell
    Moderator

    I also used fire hose over the chain, as it is better than bare chain…. pulls less hair, and is not are rough.

    The truth is that they will learn to try to avoid it….. which can be a good thing, but it also can be a bad thing if they haven’t been shown how to actually step over while turning under load.

    Draft animals need to be taught to move forward while turning under load. To accomplish this the inside animal must step ahead, and by so doing maintains a parallel orientation to the chain. If they are allowed to turn evenly, like might be accomplished by a wheeled vehicle, it will cause the inside animal’s hind legs to be forced back inward toward the angling chain.

    I know there is a tendency to ask for a turn by placing the whip in front of the inside steer, but turning under load should be accomplished not by slowing them down, but by encouraging that animal to step up and to the side at the same time.

    I usually use the pain from the chain to my advantage coinciding a command to step out, or up, at the same time the animal comes in contact with it. I would compliment a turn command with encouragement to put out.

    Another option is what Tristan had mentioned in another thread about the Go Devil. In Nova Scotia they tend to use a long pole instead of a chain. The pole, or tug, attaches to the yoke. In NS with a head yoke there is a pin through it, but with a neck yoke a short piece of chain can be bolted on, or a hook, depending on how you hook up. The other end has a swivel and hook. The pole is 2-3″ diameter. This method will protect the legs because the wood gets polished and smooth, but it also is more incentive for the animal to step out.

    I am pretty sure that Howie Van Ord has mentioned that he used this method sometimes. The pole just drags between the steers when not hitched, but I never used it because I always like to coil up the chain and hang it in the yoke to get it out from under feet when not working, or preparing to hitch.

    Carl

    #73223
    Carl Russell
    Moderator

    @Kevin Cunningham 33856 wrote:

    Th….. For me it is the off ox that contacts the chain more often on a gee turns. The nigh one stays pretty much out of the way on a haw turn. …..

    This is because you can step up and out on the nigh side encouraging this animal to follow you, while the off ox has to be encouraged in another manner, usually a snap on the tail-head, while the nigh ox needs to be held back, usually accomplished with body language (not stepping toward the animal, almost holding back so the steer wants to stay with you and not push on the off ox, stepping behind the shoulder and reaching over to the off ox instead of reaching out in front of the nigh one to reach the off one).

    Carl

    #73235
    Andy Carson
    Moderator

    @Carl Russell 33859 wrote:

    …If they are allowed to turn evenly, like might be accomplished by a wheeled vehicle, it will cause the inside animal’s hind legs to be forced back inward toward the angling chain.

    I know there is a tendency to ask for a turn by placing the whip in front of the inside steer, but turning under load should be accomplished not by slowing them down, but by encouraging that animal to step up and to the side at the same time.

    I usually use the pain from the chain to my advantage coinciding a command to step out, or up, at the same time the animal comes in contact with it. I would compliment a turn command with encouragement to put out…

    Ha! You are exactly right. I am pretty sure this is what was going on with my team as they were used to pulling a two wheeled thing before. I also tend to slow my nigh ox in haw turns. I will try your tip, and I bet it works. Thanks!

    PS. The NS pole system sounds interesting to me. I might try it sometime when I am feeling adventurous. It would also have the added benefit of preventing backchaining (or at least making it harder). My team hasn’t done this in a while, but it would be nice if it was impossible…

    #73229
    Tim Harrigan
    Participant

    I have never had a problem with this, probably because from the start when they were young I used a pole and taught them to hold the load and sidestep to square the load up and then pull. I would do it in increments with a tight turn when pulling a log or stoneboat…. swing, pull until the chain started to crowd the leg, hold the load and swing, etc. Of course, with a wagon you can just pivot right around that way. A pole helps emphasize the need to swing when they are young, and it helps the teamster because it is more visible and it does not bend so it is easier to see when they are being crowded by it. So typically with a chain I either make wider, gradual turns or I will stop and swing as needed. Losing a little hair is one thing, but if one ox starts walking into the turn and the chain angles around the leg of the other on a heavy load, you are going to put tremendous lateral loads on the leg and joints. Bad deal. Good discussion, this is a huge oversight and bad practice for anyone allowing this to happen. Put this at the top of your list of things to correct, right now! A training video might be needed here.

    If you are attentive to this you will begin to see how tight you can turn with specific loads. For instance, if you have a stoneboat that is front loaded, and you want to turn tight, it tends to pivot around on it’s nose in a tight circle and the chain does not move laterally very much. With a back-loaded stoneboat or something like a log with a center of gravity set back from hitch point, the load will want to pivot around the center of gravity or maybe the center of resistance and there will be a lot of lateral movement and tendency to swing the chain into the legs. It will take multiple swing/pull increments to get the load straightened out so it does not lay into the leg when starting out.

    [A few hours later…] Droverone and I posted at about the same time so look at the next post, I think he describes the same process for turning that I am describing, but I am unfamiliar with hemmick chains. I think the Canadian head yokes will differ from American neck yokes here in that the head yoke will tend to keep the cattle together, both front to back and side-to-side, at least their fronts. Neck yoke cattle are held together at the front as well, but one can get out in front of the other in a turn so it takes some effort to keep them where they should be. For instance, if the off ox gets too far ahead on a haw turn it puts the nigh ox at a disadvantage for staying off the chain because it pushes the chain to him and he has to almost walk sideways to stay off it. That is very hard to do when pulling a load. Not only that, it shortens the lever arm of the nigh ox so it increases his load while simultaneously forcing him to pull in a very awkward position.

    I believe this differs also from a horse hitch because horses are pretty well bucked into the harness and square to the evener as they turn. So they are always pulling square to the evener. The dynamics are quite a bit different with a neck yoke and single chain. If you can not picture this process or figure out how to implement it, we need to continue this discussion. This is an animal comfort and health issue.

    #73238
    Droverone
    Participant

    The boom pole has advantages but it needs to be fashioned in a way to make the angle of the head in the head yoke level with the ground with the adjustment of the hemmick chains, the angle and the backing bolt along with the hemmick chains remove all the slack, but many head yoke teamsters do not make turns with a boom pole like the americans would use it with a neck yoke. Many of them stop, take the pressure off the short chain at the base of the boom pole and angle the team, before resuming a pull in a straight direction.

    #73236
    Andy Carson
    Moderator

    @Tim Harrigan 33867 wrote:

    If you can not picture this process or figure out how to implement it, we need to continue this discussion. This is an animal comfort and health issue.

    I think I understand, but let me check. I think in a perfect situation, the team would swing with the chain and the yoke at a perfect 90 degree angle the whole time. To stay at a perfect 90 degree angle, the oxen must both sidestep rather than angling one way or the other. Depending on loads, conditions, experience, and the degree of the turn, one might be able to turn while going forward, or one might need to alternate swings and pulls. If you are swinging while pulling, this would have to be a forward and sidestep maneuver, which might be hard esp if the turn is rather tight. If you swing and pull (rather than doing both together) you can make tighter turns, but be careful using this technique because the load is going to swing upon an axis that is somewhat unknown and will depend on how the weight/drag is distributed. The axis of rotation of the load will not be the point where the chain attaches to the load/implement, it will be some distance back from that point. If you swing around an axis that is not the true axis of rotation for the load, and swing very far, it is going to drive the chain into one of the oxs legs when you start. This would do much more than rub and chaff. To minimize the possibility of this happening, when you swing without moving forward at the same time, you should frequently pull the chain tight enough to rotate the thing you are pulling (you can make sure it is completely rotated by advancing a short distance). By frequently making small advances, even if your educated guess as to the true pivot point is wrong, there is probably still enough room between the chain and the oxs leg. Does this sound right?

    This leads to another sets of questions… If turns should always be sidesteps (rather than speeding one ox up and slowing the other ox down) than signalling a turn by tapping at the rear of one ox and the front of the other ox is just wrong??? You don’t want either one to go faster and you don’t want either one to go slower, you want a sidestep and a pivot… Oh jeesh, have I been doing this wrong the whole time? Maybe the commands i know work for wheeled things or for wider turns and there is another set of commands for tight turns? I am kinda getting mixes messages here. There seems to be one school that says rubbing on the chain happens from time to time and here’s something you can do to make rubbing less damaging. There seems to be another school of thought that says rubbing should never happen and if the team touches the chain there is a fundament problem that needs fixed immediately before work can continue. Thoughts?

    #73230
    Tim Harrigan
    Participant

    @Countymouse 33872 wrote:

    This leads to another sets of questions… If turns should always be sidesteps (rather than speeding one ox up and slowing the other ox down) than signalling a turn by tapping at the rear of one ox and the front of the other ox is just wrong??? You don’t want either one to go faster and you don’t want either one to go slower, you want a sidestep and a pivot… Oh jeesh, have I been doing this wrong the whole time? Maybe the commands i know work for wheeled things or for wider turns and there is another set of commands for tight turns? I am kinda getting mixes messages here. There seems to be one school that says rubbing on the chain happens from time to time and here’s something you can do to make rubbing less damaging. There seems to be another school of thought that says rubbing should never happen and if the team touches the chain there is a fundament problem that needs fixed immediately before work can continue. Thoughts?

    I think there is some middle ground. If you are not moving a load and do not have to be concerned about the chain or pole, and you want to make a tight turn, a good way to do it is to signal the ox on the inside of the turn to slow down and the one on the outside to speed up and come around. So for a haw turn I would typically touch Will on the knee, Abe on the butt and then on the off side shoulder to bring him to me. Under a load the chain or pole can be an obstacle for the team. If the turn is gradual you can use the slow down speed up technique, but only to the extent that the chain does not come into your team. If you want to make tighter turns and keep the chain or pole off the legs of your oxen, one good way to do it is to swing the team in the direction of the turn, take a step forward to start to swing the load, then being attentive to the lateral swing of the chain, repeat the process before the chain hits the leg. I don’t necessarily ask to make a perfect arc, I will have the nigh ox step sideways and back a bit, then set out to give a little more clearance where the chain is going to swing. I will ask the off ox to step up, to me and set in to square them up. The off ox can be close to the chain because when they pull the chain will move away from the off ox and toward the nigh ox.

    Like I said earlier, some loads, like a front loaded boat might pivot on an 18 inch radius in front but a 7 ft radius in back. In that case you can almost turn it 1 80 degrees in one motion. If it is back loaded it might swing on the 7 ft radius and take 3 or 4 or 5 tugs to swing the load around and square up. It just depends on the situation and the load. You just have to be aware of the chain or pole and keep them off the team. So I guess the chain will touch the team from time to time, but yes it is a fundamental error and your goal should be to never let it happen. Particularly with a heavy load.

    Andy, you enjoy statics. Do the calculations for a chain under 200 to 300 lbs tension (500 to 700 lb stoneboat load), maybe a 10 ft chain with a 5 degree or 10 degree angle break in chain at the leg, maybe 3 ft or so from the load. What kind of lateral loads do you see on the leg?

    #73226
    Vicki
    Participant

    Andy, it’s important that you are thinking about safely turning with heavy loads, but I’d say don’t overly sweat it. The way I think about the turning issue is that what you have been doing is building a bond and a language with your oxen. Don’t underestimate the value of that in future fine-tuning and application of driving. Now you will work on “teaching” one ox to step away from the chain or pole under a load. I am pleasantly surprised at how “smart” most steers are at getting this concept after a short time of practicing . For me, the practice was a slow controlled series of small moves to redirection their fronts, then setting one out, then taking up the slack with a step or two, repeat… My oxen don’t do much heavy like yours and Tim’s do, but now they “know” how to do this and I don’t have to give all the interim commands whenever we drag a stoneboat. My observation has been that in general, younger teams want to hurry to “get it done” and will be sloppy and risk getting hurt with the chain or pole, so you have to teach them to go slow and subtle and include their back end movements. They figure it out and I find I do not always have to micro-manage their movements when they are experienced. Using a pole or slipping PVC over the chain makes it easier at first because it prevents backchaining.

    Maybe you could watch video of distance pulls to see how they turn the loads at the ends. Often there they will readjust chain length to give more chain on the pivots.

    The 4 year olds I’m working with seem to have not learned to step away. I have to work on that with them. Since I can’t reliably get then to set out all the time, it will be challenging.

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