Changing Oil Seals on an MD #9 Mower

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  • #43813
    Does’ Leap
    Participant

    I know there were some questions and comments on replacing seals on my last thread (Oil for MD #9 Mowever), but I thought I would start a new one. Turns out I have 2 seals that need replacing – the one of the end of the pitman shaft and the one around the shaft that attaches to the clutch lever or foot pedal (that engages the mower). I have replaced the oil seal on the end of the pitman shaft on a previous mower and ended up turning the flywheel the wrong way. I broke the flywheel before figuring it out:mad: – lots of fun. I don’t want to repeat the error. Lynn Miller writes “pulling the wrench and the flywheel clockwise unscrews the pinion off the shaft”. I assume that he means you turn the flywheel clockwise as you are looking at it from the front of the mower. Can someone confirm this?

    Has anyone replaced the oil seal around the foot pedal shaft (assuming there is a seal)? Does anyone have a part number for this seal? Any suggestions on how to tackle this?

    Thanks.

    George

    #73886
    Jay
    Participant

    George, no, the flywheel needs to turn counter clockwise as you look at it from the front (the same righty tighty, lefty loosey as any right hand thread). I assume he is looking at the flywheel from above the gear box and therefore from behind the flywheel. You are not the first to have been confused as to which side he was referring to. As to the clutch foot lever shaft – I haven’t yet done one. I’m sure that Norm Macnair has them (the seal) and I find his prices competitive with the local parts stores, even with shipping. His # is 717-543-5136. I believe it it fairly straight forward to take apart and replace. Donn, do you have any experience with this? Jay

    #73880
    Donn Hewes
    Keymaster

    Funny you should mention flywheels and seals, as I have been messing with them today. No, never touched the clutch lever seal as of yet. yes, the fly wheel goes couterclockwise to come out. I have usually found a combination of a shackle and a wrench with put the force on the meat of the flywheel and reduce the risk of breaking them. Most come off easier than you expect, but then I did break the last one I wanted off. I wasn’t working at home and didn’t have my usual set up. Fortunately the broken flywheel was attached to a wasted shaft so I didn’t need to mess with it anymore. To add insult to injury I couldn’t get the pitman baring off the flywheel post. either. Do you think this mower was run a little too far? I just used JB weld to put the new bushing in. The bushing opening was egged out in the front but found a good home as it went further in. The JB weld is good and hard, now we will see how long it lasts. I bought a new shaft from Macknairs, and just barely got it pressed on a flywheel I had. I put the jack on the floor and with the fly wheel and shaft on top of that with a block of hard wood to the roof beam. Messy, but it worked.

    When I took the remnant of the old seal out of the mower I must have marred the edge. Try to take them out with out touching that outer edge, as this makes it much harder to start the new seal. That in combination with not being home made me waste a couple seals today trying to get one in. You need the right little block of wood or short piece of pipe to set the seal square. Now if I just talk about the rain and the muddy barn yard this will be a member diary!

    #73876
    Does’ Leap
    Participant

    Hey Donn, can you explain further?

    @Donn Hewes 34882 wrote:

    I have usually found a combination of a shackle and a wrench with put the force on the meat of the flywheel and reduce the risk of breaking them.

    By “shackle”, do you mean a clevis? Also, do you (or Jay) ever put any heat to the pinion to help unscrew the shaft. The last time I did this (when I finally figured out which way the flywheel turns), I ended up having to rap on the pinion with a chisel – risky business, but I finally got it without marring the pinion.

    Thanks.

    George

    #73887
    Jay
    Participant

    I use a piece of hardwood rather than a chisel to drive against the gear to help break it loose. Several sharp raps usually seem to do the trick. That’s sounds like good improvising to get the flywheel on, Donn. Jay

    #73881
    Donn Hewes
    Keymaster

    Yes, I have a small clevis that fits right over the flywheel with the bolt going through the hole. Then I stick a large wrench under the clevis and across the top of the flywheel. I have never tried to hit the gear. I have all ways just wedge it from below. Usually with a small crow bar. Then just rock on the wrench. Except for the one I broke they have all come off easier than I expected. Off to try and fix my mistakes from yesterday. Just got a cool little bender for my shop. I can make clevis and plan to bend some rod to make eveners.

    #73877
    Does’ Leap
    Participant

    So I got the pitman shaft out of the mower. I tried rapping on it with hardwood. After shredding several sticks of 4/4 maple I put the torch to the threading pitman shaft being careful not to heat the pinion too much. I then spun the flywheel with a pipe wrench while locking up the pinion with a piece of steel rod.

    Do you change out your pitman shaft bearing since you have it torn apart (at least partially) when you are replacing the seals. The bearing in my mower looked good and spun freely. I also assume that the bushing is ok (this is in back of the bearing, correct) b/c there is no slop with the shaft. Should I leave them both?

    George

    #73882
    Donn Hewes
    Keymaster

    George, I would usually expect the baring to be OK, but consider it carefully. any sticky spot, or rough action should be replaced. In the number nine there is only on bushing and it is right behind the seal (outer end). In the number seven there are two bushings and no baring. If you remove the seal, you will see it there. I would likely put in a new bushing unless that one seemed near perfect. No slop. What does the surface of the shaft look like in the last four inches (nearest the fly wheel)? Should be smooth and clean. Remember to be careful taking the old seal out. Hah.

    #73878
    Does’ Leap
    Participant

    The end of the shaft looks nice and smooth. I will take a look at the bushing once I remove the seal. Norm at McNairs says that you can buy a seal puller from a car parts store. I forgot how I pulled the one on my last mower, but she doesn’t leak anymore. So I must have accomplished the task without marring the housing.

    George

    #73885
    chrisf.
    Participant

    Never worked on a mowing machine but if they are seals like most gear boxes have (metal outside with a flat front and rubber on inside) a good trick to pull them out sometimes is to drive a self-tapping srcrew staight through the face of the seal and let it prop into the back of the casing. Usually pulls one side of the seal out pretty easy.

    #73883
    Donn Hewes
    Keymaster

    The self tapping screw sounds like a great idea. My mower saga continued last night. My amish neighbor has his father in law visiting right now, and he has a small repair shop in Western Pa. Fun to talk to him, and he suggested using a little silicone caulk with the new seal. If you have scratched it a little the cualk will take it up. He also said he is using a thick seal he is getting from Peachy? Must try this place as many get parts there. That thick seal is a little easier to put in than the thin metal ones. Last night my little cut off pipe worked great to install the thin seals I had, and I did put in two. Easy peasy, ten minutes. Then the new shaft on the new flywheel was a little too short. I never thought of this as I pressed it. I put the shaft all the way into the fly wheel, like the others I was looking at. If it is an 1/8″ too short it locks up before the gear is on tight and won’t turn! I tried it without the washer and it seemed close but no go. Brought it home to make it 3/16 longer – it least it will be easy to put it in the press to make longer.

    #73884
    Stone Horse Farm
    Participant

    I have replaced the seal on the clutch shaft. You need to pull all the gears out of the box to get to it, which I assume is why every #9 mower I’ve seen leaks there!! It wasn’t too bad of a job, if you like to take things apart.

    #73879
    Does’ Leap
    Participant

    In order to get the gears out you have to free the bearing from the right hand (driver’s right) side of the shaft and pull the shaft out to the left, correct? If so, how did you get the bearing off the shaft? I have been fighting with it for several hours and I am ready to torch it off:mad:! Any input would be appreciated.

    George

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