DAPNET Forums Archive › Forums › Equipment Category › Equipment › 14T Baler
- This topic has 10 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 12 years, 3 months ago by
mitchmaine.
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- June 23, 2012 at 12:35 am #43897
Anonymous
InactiveHow do you remove the needle lift shaft to replace the knotter frame?
June 23, 2012 at 1:21 am #74274mitchmaine
Participantthe needle lifting arm is a short 1/2 inch rod connecting the needle arm with a disc on the end of the knotter shaft. it disconnects with a cotter pin and is a fairly simple task. but the knotter shaft has to be driven out of both knotter frames until you can free the frame you want. not a fun job. the knotter gears are cast steel and pretty tender and move slow. you have to force them along the knotter shaft but go easy. the knotter frames if greased frequently will move easily. its a great baler or can be. good luck with it.
June 23, 2012 at 10:20 am #74273InactiveIs the knotter shaft driven out to the right or left when at the back of the baler and looking toward the front?
Thanks for the help
rickety
Hillsboro NHJune 23, 2012 at 11:12 am #74275Participantits been a long time. but i am fairly sure that the shaft can only come out towards the flywheel side. there is a shield to remove over the knotter trip mech., and the bevel gears that run the knotter and a drift pin connecting both (i think). separate them and drive the shaft out to the left. find a cool spot and something to keep your blood pressure low and don’t rush. the 24t had six bolts and you could remove the entire knotter in ten minutes. but the job of sliding all that stuff off the shaft is still the same.
June 23, 2012 at 4:55 pm #74271near horse
ParticipantHaven’t done a 14T but I think the replacement arms are 2 piece (like a connecting rod/cap for a piston) so you don’t need to pull the shaft ever again. Also, make sure to keep count of the shims used on either side of each knotter frame as they are important in the alignment. Double check your knotter shaft for straightness when it’s out (roll it on the concrete slab) – somehow mine was bent and it caused me a million knotter headaches.
Might try the JD parts catalog – they do have really nice exploded views of the “newer” balers (336 etc) and PDF files on the 14T (I can’t get the PDF to read on my computer). Best of luck(http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt)
June 23, 2012 at 11:49 pm #74276Participantgeoff, haven’t heard of that one but i’d be tempted to try and break the old knotter frame off the shaft without taking it out. chipping at it with a cold chisel, if the replacement could just bolt in place.
rickety, i broke a knotter frame on a 14t once. old hay built up under the knotter trip, until it couldn’t seat, and it kept going through its cycle winding twine up on the bill hook until it snapped the frame. bummer. after that i kept it swept out and bathed in wd-40
June 24, 2012 at 12:20 am #74272ParticipantMitch – I busted the frame on my 224T in a similar way – but had twine build up and keep wrapping until ….. Those knotter frames are ~$180 each but pretty nice. Not sure you can get the old one piece frames anymore. They also have a nut on the bottom of the worm gear on each knotter, makes it a little easier to adjust the twine disk opening. The exploded view on the JD site should show the new frame.
June 24, 2012 at 11:56 am #74269Livewater Farm
Participantfor sale good running 14t baler with 2cylinder motor ties good tight bales $1200
Bill
Livewater Farm
602 387 4412June 24, 2012 at 1:02 pm #74270Participantbaler just sold this morning
BillJune 24, 2012 at 6:51 pm #74267Carl Russell
ModeratorBill, you may want to go back and edit that post……. somebody may be getting unwanted calls….
Carl
August 20, 2012 at 2:38 pm #74268Moderator@Livewater Farm 35563 wrote:
baler just sold this morning
BillHey Bill it works great…..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LWMF9vaE1dw&list=UU9xzkRo7ALp993ssEkj2z-w&index=1&feature=plcp
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