canary grass to winter wheat?

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  • #44048
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Whats the best way to turn a reed canary grass meadow into winter wheat. I was going to disc it all in and then plant the wheat but I thought I would check and see. I was also wondering if anyone has done “fukuoka” style winter grains. I was thinking I could cut the canary grass and then plant into the cut grass as a mulch?

    any advice is great

    Jared

    #74927
    Tim Harrigan
    Participant

    Reed Canary grass tends to colonize wet areas or areas that may be seasonally wet so that may be a deal breaker for winter wheat, particularly in the spring. Other than that, RC develops a very extensive root system and can reproduce by underground rhizomes that can be very persistent, just like quackgrass. So without seeing what you have in mind I would suggest some process such as fallow tillage to weaken and suppress the root system. Otherwise your wheat may be overrun by RC in the spring. At any rate, I would not suggest disking alone. Unless you have a heavy disk it is going to take a lot of passes to break down the RC. I would plow first, then disk.

    If you cut the RC, I assume you mean a mature crop, you will need a very heavy no-till planter to cut the residue and place the seed. And, the cut herbage may tend to drag along and pile in front of the planter. Just a heads up, I may be picturing a worst case situation.

    One other thing, the RC itself is suppressing less aggressive weeds. So a disking that opens the soil will also make other weed seeds in the seed bank more competitive. So you could end up with not only RC but a flush of new weeds as well. You might want to try a few different approaches on small areas before you go after the whole field.

    #74932
    Kevin Cunningham
    Participant

    I have no experience with canary grass but I can tell you from experience that discing alone prior to planting winter wheat has not worked well for me. In fact discing alone prior to planting any grain crop winter or spring hasn’t work for me at all. There have only been a few cases where I have pulled it off. This spring I was able to disc in pasture and plant spring oats, but I use tractor tillage for all my farming still, and a pretty heavy, “cover crop” style disc. The only reason I did that is I ran out of time for plowing. Now the fields I plant are for grain seed production, not hay. If hay is the goal and you don’t mind the inevitable weeds that tillage brings, then maybe discing only would work.

    Also, I mean no disrespect to Mr. Fukuoka, I have read his books and they are part of the inspiration for our farm, but his ideas have been around for quite a long time and I have never seen a long term working model of no till grain production using his methods. It might be the difference in climate, soil, culture(agriculture), or some other factor, but the fact of the matter is that in the decades since writting “The One Straw Revolution” there have been no westerners to fully replicate his results in a more temperate climate. I do not say this to stop the experimentation and innovation that new ideas can bring to farming but my personal experience has proven to me that sometimes it is best to not try to reinvent the wheel. I have shifted my focus over the years to developing rotations, composting, cover cropping, and fallowing in order to not only preserve my soil to improve it and still farm it more “conventionally.” Bear in mind our farm in anything but conventional, we plant about 10 acres of mixed grains (and save all our own landrace seed) in one acre fields, for sale in a grain CSA.

    I hope I have not rained on your parade but I get it a lot around here. “Have you ever heard of the One Straw Revolution?” asks the wide eyed college kid. . Yes in fact I have, I have an old copy of the original printing of the book, and when I started experimenting years ago I found my way back to the plow.

    #74929
    Andy Carson
    Moderator

    I have obtained decent control over rhizomatous grasses by discing, cultivating, discing again, cultivating twice, harrowing a couple times, cultivating again, harrowing, then planting a weed competative crop that is tall and I can cultivate. In other words, many passes over a period of about a month (luckily the weather cooperated with this). Kinda a short fallow… Even after all that, I still have weeds, esp between the plants in the rows. Still, it was enough weed control that the sunflowers I planted got a good jump on them. The variety I picked got to 8-10 feet tall, and the weeds soon had no sunlight. Until they got tall, I could knock the weeds back between the rows by cultivating. With wheat you get neither of these advantages (not tall and not normally in rows)…

    Like Kevin, I have had good luck discing some and planting oats. I have also had good luck with turnips and on my ground, and found them to be very weed competative. The best crop I have planted in weedy ground, by far, is rye. It will take over, though, and it does so very early in spring when the ground is too wet to work. It got away from me last time I planted it, went to seed, and I am still cleaning up some of the volunteers. If you can find something to do with it, that would be an awesome grain to grow. If there was a grain I could imagine growing well in a min till organic system, it would be rye. I also tried triticale too, but on my land I found it to be a much weaker competitor than rye. This is the main reason I didn’t try wheat, because if it was an even weaker competitor than triticale (which I have read it is) than it has no chance. Reguardless of what you grow, you will have to decide what your weed tolerance is or should be for the crops you are interested in. In my situation, with the crops I grow, I have decided that my weed tolerance is not zero. Like I said, I haven’t had the guts to even try wheat at this point. Instead, I have decided to grow weed competative crops, or at least crops I can cultivate, until the weed pressure on my ground is reduced (if this ever happens). I hope this helps…

    #74935
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Thanks for the advice, you didnt rain on any parade. I am planting some black emmer that was grown planted by hand “no-till”. the small amount I am going to be growing I think I will just try to drill it by hand and mulch with the canary grass between the rows and plants. As for the moisture I was a little concerned about that but I have a lot of land to play with so im gonna work the dry areas and risk it. The moisture is part of the reason I didnt want to plow it.

    thanks
    Jared

    #74934
    Billy Foster
    Participant

    Jarrod
    I tried what you are suggesting with planting spring oats into a “failed” Timothy/red clover planting and ended up grazing the whole thing because it was so polluted with Timothy. The sheep didn’t think it was a failure 🙂

    #74930
    Andy Carson
    Moderator

    If I could suggest anything, Jared, it would be to plant a small variety of different grains you might be interested in. I have noticed that, for whatever reason, crops don’t always follow “the rules” as we read them in books or online. Fall planted oats, for example, are supposed to winter kill efficiently in my location but I only get a ~50% winter kill on my place, and in mild winters (like last winter) they don’t kill at all. Maybe the slightly south facing slope of my field has a bigger effect than I would have guessed. Similarly, triticale, according to some sources, is “supposed” to be nearly as weed competative as rye and make a good cover crop. They are not close for me on my land in my hands. Some types of clover grow well for me some years, but not so well other years. I used to get tons of volunteer clover, so I thought it would grow like crazy and be a reliable source of nitrogen. I was right the first year I planted it, but the next year weeds and grasses outcompeted it. I would not have predicted such a differance in a year. My point is that I have been learning that the guidelines about how crops behave are more rules of thumb, and I have to learn for myself how these apply to my field in my situation. Planting a small group of candidate grains and possibly covers or other crops your might be interested in for a rotation allows you to learn many “lessons” all at once. If you only learn one thing each year, it may be a long time until you are an expert.

    #74937
    bendube
    Participant

    A broader comment on no-till grain production:
    I know a farmer in my area who drills winter rye into his pastures in September. He has the cattle graze the pastures down hard before seeding for vegetation control, and the rye usually takes well. He uses the rye for high quality late-fall / early spring rather than grain, however.

    In general, its hard to imagine how any mulch (less than a foot deep) or crop competition is going to stop or slow down cool season grasses in the spring in the northeast, they grow like gangbusters in May and June.

    In Australia, many farmers use “no-kill cropping” by overseeding small grains on warm season pastures. No herbicides, no tillage, just a seed-drill. Their winters are much milder than ours, so the grains are able to grow all winter while the summer grasses are dormant, this is obviously not going to be possible here.

    #74931
    Andy Carson
    Moderator

    This thought gives me an idea… I wonder how hard you have to graze rye in the spring to kill it. If this is possible with cattle at the right stocking rate, it might allow me to use my favorite cover crop (rye) and not have to worry about it getting away from me. If I use the cattle to graze it off in early spring, which might give me a way to control the rye reguardless of weather. In a perfect world, I could then disc up the hard grazed ground and plant warm weather crops in late spring. Perhaps if I time it right, the rye would be giving up when the corn/sunflowers/pumpkins/etc get going. Has anyone tried something like this? Thoughts? Speculation?

    #74933
    Kevin Cunningham
    Participant

    I do agree that planting a variety of crops will yield better results rather than focusing on only one crop at a time. This is why we plant not only up to ten grains a year, but also vegetables, chickens, lamb, beef, pork, and just about anything else that seems crazy enough to try. Our farm is very diversified, but I have seen that being too spread out can mean you do many things poorly rather than a few things well. I also consider that I only 30 -35 times to try my hand at growing crops. Each year I make a big mistake and have a crop failure is another year I have to wait to get another chance. Because we are talking about time on an annular scale I am not always willing to take risks, because I litteraly can’t afford to have even a 25% learning curve. I am all for experimentation but on our farm it is balanced with respect for what has worked for many, many seasons. We don’t farm in a bubble. Look around at your neighbors what works for them, what was done historically in your area. I don’t think it is good it get locked into “the way it has always been done,” but I have already made enough mistakes, like grain fields that yield 500#/ac, to have come back to some common sense ways of farming.

    #74928
    Tim Harrigan
    Participant

    @Countymouse 36593 wrote:

    This thought gives me an idea… I wonder how hard you have to graze rye in the spring to kill it. /QUOTE]

    The challenge with grazing rye in the spring is that it can grow so fast under the right conditions that it can get away from you unless you have enough animals to hit it hard and fast. But green chop is a good way to harvest the feed, and that scythe that you got will be getting rusty in the spring. Baling is good if you can find enough drying days.

    #74938
    bendube
    Participant

    I’ve thought about using grazing to assist in terminating rye, but you’d have to wait until its fairly tall or else grazing will do very little to actually kill the plant, and may just make it more vigorous. Grazing vegetative wheat that is destined to be harvested for grain has been common in various areas at various times, and when the animals are removed before the stem elongates, it may not harm yields at all. This is a subject that I recall tevis being knowledgeable about.

    Rye is killed relatively easily by mowing (or rolling) once it starts to shed pollen, but at that point, it wouldn’t be very palatable to the animals.

    I’d be willing to guess that grazing it hard around boot stage could substitute for some, though not all, tillage on the rye.
    I guess we’ll just have to try it.

    #74936
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    I dropped the ball and it is getting too late right now for me to try. The method I was thinking was based on pasture cropping that I am familiar with, the difference is that I dont have any animals on this land because it is far from my farm. the stand of canary grass made me think the winter grains wont be able to compete. Maybe next year I will just plow it up and plant bussiness as usual, I was just hoping to figure out a small scale hand or pony powered method of no till.

    Jared

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