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- January 8, 2013 at 4:36 am #44381EliParticipant
Does anyone have any experance with horse drawn no till drills? I I have 160 acres of tillable land if I have 20 acres of hay and 10 acres in pasture I would have 130 acres to no till wheat and beans into. I am trying to figure out a way to farm my land. I farmed conventionally for 20 years so I am no stranger to farming but I know nothing about farming with horses. Is this possible or am I crazy. I am gathering info and will put a partial budget together to see if it is feasible. Thanks Eli
January 8, 2013 at 6:10 pm #76675bendubeParticipantThis subject has already been brought up in the forum. This thread might be helpful:
http://www.draftanimalpower.com/showthread.php?3982-HD-no-till-drillAlso, this article might be helpful, but maybe not:
http://www.betuco.be/CA/No-tillage%20Farming%20for%20Sustainable%20Development.pdf
When I was at tiller’s international last winter, they had some information about a project using oxen for no-till in Africa. So you’re not crazy.
-Hope that helps
BenJanuary 8, 2013 at 7:14 pm #76680EliParticipantThank you, I will be sure to use the search function in the future Eli
January 8, 2013 at 7:26 pm #76668Andy CarsonModeratorThat is a lot of land. Are you doing this full-time or as a side job? If I had that much land, I devote a substantial portion to hay for animals, as least until I was convinced I could handle that much in cropland. Are you going to be no-tilling into sprayed ground every year? Are you going to till every other year? If you are going to till as part of your long term management, you will want to account for that. This is a big deal. Tillage takes a lot of power and time. It is your choice, of course, what to grow, but I don’t know why you would choose to grow crops to sell at commodity prices with animal power. You are going to have a lot more human labor into these crops no matter what you do. Why not grow something that the tractor guys doing want to grow? Many crops have to be hand picked. Force those tractor guys to get out of thier cabs to compete with you. It’s a pain to crawl down off a tractor when are used to the “cush” and us animal folks are walking next to the plants anyway. Grow it using methods you have thought about and believe in, direct market so you can explain why “organic” isn’t what they might think it is, and you will get a premium. Try several crops, see what grows well on your land with your practices. Keep some animals around that you can feed “failed” crops to and sell for a profit. You failures might give you your biggest profits. Remain flexible, responsive to the market and weather, and keep your capital investment low. Maintain a diverse biological and financial porfolio. The diversity and flexibilty that animal power forces you to adopt is, I believe, one of the its best aspects.
January 8, 2013 at 8:15 pm #76681EliParticipantI farmed 500 acres and milked 200 cows until 4 years ago, now I work off the farm and rent out the land. I grew mostly forage, hay 300 acres, corn for silage 200 acres (in a good year I could combine some of the corn). I sold my cows because I was unwilling to take the next step amd borrow 3/4 of a million dollars. I do not regret my decision but miss farming and would like to farm again. I was thinking of notill wheat and soybeans and spraying when I have to. Because I don’t know any other way, I am open to suggestions. I still have one 100 hp tractor and a skid steer loader. No till farming my farm with my tractor would be fairly easy. I was mostly wondering if anyone does this with draft horses or how much is possable. My wife thinks I’m crazy we get a rent check every month and likes it that way. I plan to at least cut hay with horses this summer but I would love to farm full time again. I made a good living for 20 years farming and after a 4 year break would love to do it again. Eli
January 25, 2013 at 2:43 pm #76682EliParticipantI have not given up on my dream of farming my land and talked to a few people about it. No big changes this year maybe 20 more acres of hay. The demand for land is fairly high so rent is good more than i can make farming with almost no risk. Its not just about the money but economic reality is what it is so short term no big changes. Eli
January 25, 2013 at 10:24 pm #76679Billy AndersonParticipantHey Eli. how are you? Why no-till? Why use chemicals? Sorry im just curious and dont know much about farming but am keen to learn all.
😀January 26, 2013 at 4:03 am #76670dbarker4322ParticipantThere are a few amish farmers that no-till. So far all I’ve seen is beans though. I couldn’t imagine trying to do 300 acres with horse power, but I knew a guy who put in 80 acres of beans in a day with mules.
I would think you are only limited by time. If you aren’t afraid of spraying then there is some time saving in it. I’ve seen wheat that got a good stand and never needed sprayed. Some fertilizer will help with the stand. They do make no-till drillls that can be pulled with a team.
Having a tractor will help if you get pressed for time.
Keep us posted on what you decide,Dave
February 28, 2013 at 3:16 pm #76676bendubeParticipantI talked to Jeff Moyer from the Rodale institute this weekend about organic no-till using a roller-crimper. He knows a few Amish farmers using the Roller-crimper with horses. The system is tricky, but you could probably cover a lot more ground with the crimper than with a plow. I’d be surprise if a good team couldn’t do over 10 acres in a day.
The system has a lot of tricks to it, but if you manage those, it would make it much more feasible to farm a lot of ground with horses and without chemicals (or with far less chemicals). The consensus is that this system is a lot easier to adopt for beans than corn.A couple of links:
http://www.croproller.com/models-prices
http://rodaleinstitute.org/our-work/organic-no-till/Ben
March 1, 2013 at 12:44 am #76672AnonymousInactiveThanks for all of the links Ben, I plan on welding up a roller/crimper before spring and I plan on trying to crimp winter rye for some organic no till experiments.
Jared
March 12, 2013 at 12:15 pm #76678bendubeParticipantHi Jared,
A couple of points that I’ve heard from the various researchers
-Make sure the rye is shedding pollen before you crimp. (Vetch is a little harder to judge, but it needs to be near full flower.)
-You don’t necessarily need a roller-crimper to do this, indications are that a sickle-bar mower works just as well. The main advantages of the roller crimper are that the plants are still attached to the ground, and thus a clog is much less likely to build up in a no-till planter, the mulch is more even, and the roller-crimper has a lower draft.Keep in touch about how this works out.
March 12, 2013 at 12:42 pm #76669Andy CarsonModeratorI used rye as a cover crop a couple years ago. It grew like crazy, and I had a wet spring which forced me try to control it at times that were not the best. It got away from me on most of my plots. I am interested in trying again sometime, but I will only try on a very small plot to make sure I can get good control using min-till methods. In my hands, on my ground, rye is just so tough.
March 12, 2013 at 3:12 pm #76677bendubeParticipantHi andy,
I can’t speak about this from experience, but I’ve talked to a handful of researchers and a couple of farmers about it pretty in depth. So, don’t take my word too seriously. We plow our rye in the spring, for a number of different reasons. If the rye gets too tall, its hard to plow it well, and when its around 2 feet tall, its really tenacious.However, interestingly, I’m pretty sure that this whole system depends on the rye getting WAY away from you. Most of the time, farmers are rolling/mowing rye that is 5-6 ft tall, sometimes taller. At this point, when the rye is shedding pollen, it is pretty much physiologically incapable of regrowing after disturbance. Joel Gruver at University of Western Illinois has actually gotten a pretty reliable kill simply by driving over the cover crop with a no-till drill.
I think the middle-ground is the hardest with rye. ex: The Nordells either keep rye really short with mowing and plow it when it is no more than a couple inches tall, or they let it get really tall and kill it with only a disc. For us, it would be hard to wait that long some years. I think its worth a try on a small plot where you can afford to wait.
March 12, 2013 at 8:29 pm #76673AnonymousInactivelots of folks around here cut the rye for straw when it is in flower and then plant corn, my plan would be basically the same except to try and drill into the straw instead of selling it.
March 12, 2013 at 9:18 pm #76671AnonymousInactivewas reading about the planker previously posted by ben and came across the implement called a ‘lister’. seems like some good ideas could be borrowed from the lister (images below) to create a simple drill that could open up a furrow in a cover of rye straw. more of a plowing effect than drilling by design. but i think the essential principle is that it would be very difficult to produce the drilling affect achieved by tractor drills due to their weight and downward force on soil/residue. in my mind the compromise would be to create a minimal tillage effect and maybe achieve greater efficiency…i.e. several ‘lister’-type implements in a gang would be lighter and cover more ground than a true no-till drill which would be heavier and require more draft per row. not sure what consequences this would have for weed suppression as you would be exposing more bare soil w/o straw mulch. add raker teeth to the back in a V shape to re-cover seed furrow with straw mulch?
http://auctionimages.s3.amazonaws.com/11217/22281/14758892.jpg
http://auctionimages.s3.amazonaws.com/11217/22281/14758888.jpg
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