tie stalls

I know it’s not exactly what you are asking about, but the niftiest tools I’ve seen recently is a manure trolley. There’s a photo below. I first saw this in Jay Bailey’s barn in Vt. When I first saw it, I thought it seemed little better than a wheelbarrow. It took only a few minutes to realize how vastly superior of a tool this is. No comparison, really, to a wheelbarrow. At this barn the manure was shifted by overhead trolly and rail to a single accumulation site, where it could be piled high and deep because it was dropped from above. Pretty slick. I would definately incorporate this into any design where you need to manage manure without a front end loader.

My Standing Stalls are 6′ wide by 10′ deep,(5′ is typ.)
which includes a feeding manger 24″ front to back. (20″ inside measure -5′ wide)
36″ tall hitting horses chest, 42″ tall on feeding alley side.
How ever depends on breed of horse. I own Percherons, a hafflinger may be different for instance- measure to the center of your horse’s chest to the neck line and that should be a good starting range. I also raised the floor of the manger so I can get the broom under neath. 8″ + or -.

In front of the horses I have a 2′ Alley so I can walk in front to feed.

The sides are above their backs 12″+- (6′-7′ high) to prevent biting back and forth between horses.
Some times a iron grate is added here. I also placed a 2 x 4 in middle each side of wall lagged to add stregth. (some times a horse will turn around instead of backing out and pull apart the walls.

My Tie’s are centeded – approx. 34″ long. Tied with a quik release knot. Made of rope to cut.

My father (80 yrs old) has concrete for his floor. Placed a 4 x 4 in the concrete for nailing the floor above. He says elm is the best (Elm Desease? White Oak?)if you can get it. Place the grain up so when the horse paws it will not spinter into his hoof. He had a friend that a spinter went completely thru the horses foot and took a year to heal. He used 2 x 10 rough sawn Yellow pine from Penn. leave a small gap between the boards for drainage. To clean use a fire iron poker used in a wood stove. DO NOT USE SOFT PINE.

In my barn I installed compact crushed stone with a pvc drain pipe sloping 1 degrees to exit point out of barn. Works like a footing drain, behind the horse for cleaning and drainage. Covered stone with Stall Mate system from Califonia. I’m not happy with this for one of my drafts have pawed through the fabric. The Box stalls I’m pleased with. The system drains the urin and is easier to clean daily. The manure, straw, and sawdust is dryer. I can also power wash the stalls with ease. AND freshen the place up for events.

To correct the problem I will have to install 2x flooring simular to my fathers. Which we had at the last barn for 30+ years.

The 4 corners each have a 4 x 4 post tied in with 2 x 10 around perimitor at the top to prevent racking.

Will add photos of my fathers stalls tomorrow.

I also place a chain from post to post behind each horse so they can not back out into alley. This way it is saver walking behind them. (or if the rope, halter or snap breaks they don’t wonder around.)

Hope this was of some help. Sue

My tie stalls are also a run in. That means there is 36′ feeder with the feeder divided every 6′ a tie ropes in each. No slip knots on mine but the animals are not tied that often or that long. They also have an automatic water bowl (just like in a cow barn) in between each pair of animals. These are drained in the winter, but they are great in the rest of the year. Nothing divides the horses and nothing behind them. I have rubber mats on the floor that slope slightly to the center, where I build a small pack for week or two before I clean it out. the rest of the mats stay pretty clean with a little help from a leaf rake. My feeder is about chest high for the horse, but I would put the bottom right on the floor. Good for them to reach all the way in an also keeps the hay in.