DAPNET Forums Archive › Forums › Equipment Category › Equipment › pitman length
- This topic has 7 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 9 years, 4 months ago by mitchmaine.
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- July 23, 2015 at 4:14 pm #85846mitchmaineParticipant
broke my pitman yesterday, so i thought it might be a good chance to improve my lead. so i hooked a comealong to the end of the bar and the end of the pole and let the adjustable connector go and cranked it up till i thought it looked ok. i turned on the connector and had to bottom it out, and also had to let some lead go to get it hooked back together. but in the end it was an improvement i think. anyway my register went out the window of course. i would have needed a few more turns on the connector to get it but it was maxed out, and turning it back all the way to the slot behind would put it right back where i started. so i ended up shortening the pitman to get it to register properly. first time ever that i did that. wondering if anyone else might have tried that one? it worked ok in practice. i made a pattern of the original just in case but don’t know if that one is actually the “correct” measurement. i just didn’t feel like taring the whole machine apart to gain lead. ever feel like that?
July 24, 2015 at 12:08 pm #85849Does’ LeapParticipantHi Mitch:
I have been there many times with my own mowers and helping a friend rebuild his. Getting the lead and register correct can be very frustrating. The interplay between the two adjustment mechanisms can be confounding. I never have shortened the pitman though opting to assemble re-assemble until I got things correct. I am interested to hear how it turns out for you.
Happy mowing.
George
July 24, 2015 at 2:53 pm #85856mitchmaineParticipanthey george,
i took an old pitman and rebored it to fit. bad move. it broke after about a half hour. but it was in bad shape in the first place. i went over to the mill and made three brand new oak blanks and sliced and bored the drive end and left the other end go. took the best grained specimen and cut it and fit it to my new length. i worry that there is some balance issue that i don’t know about. anyway, waiting for some hay weather. i’ll let you know how it works out.best wishes, mitch
July 26, 2015 at 5:44 pm #85866Donn HewesKeymasterThere are a lot of different theories on how to get the proper lead and timing. The method I subscribe to does not include pulling the head end of the mower forward. I learned from an Amish shop (Rudy Beiler – Fort Plain, NY) that the lead is lost through the push bar (big diagonal bar from under the seat) looses the correct angle where it is bent on the big end. A combination of a jig (to ensure proper realignment) and a heavy press are used to rebend this bar slightly. The reason this becomes important is it allows the head to stay where it belongs. The pitman stick should be square to the pitman shaft and this is easily checked by placing a framing square against the face of the flywheel. Now as I turn the threads to adjust timing I use the framing square each time I put the head back in to maintain the same placement. I move the push bar threads and timing bar (bar in front of pitman) together (both in or both out) to adjust the timing. Anyway that is how I do it. If your pitman stick is far from square it is generating torgue that will be relieved with bad barings or broken plates on the pitman stick. Donn
July 27, 2015 at 10:32 pm #85869mitchmaineParticipantthanks donn, that makes absolute sense. the pitman and knife must want to line up as well, true? i’ll run a square and see how they look.
mitch
July 28, 2015 at 6:30 am #85870Donn HewesKeymasterHi Mitch, The knife and the pitman don’t line up exactly. The far end of the knife or cutter bar is slightly in front of the inside end and the reason for this, is the pressure of the grass while mowing will push it back to a straight line. This is what we call the “lead”. If you measure the lead with a string running straight down the pitman the outer end of the knife should be 1/4″ per foot advanced. That means a five foot bar would have 1 1/4 of lead and a six foot bar would have 1 1/2″ of lead. You can usually eyeball lead by getting down on the ground and looking up the knife at the pitman. There is some flexibility with how perfect the lead needs to be. I have seen many mower with the lead less than perfect that ran good. when the bar appears neutral or actually behind the line of the pitman is when I have started to see problems with broken pitman bolts or plates, or other mowing issues. So, use a square to check the pitman and a string to check the cutter bar.
July 28, 2015 at 6:32 am #85871Donn HewesKeymasterThis is also why working on the timing and lead can be so annoying. In trying fix one it is easy to throw off the other. Donn
July 28, 2015 at 11:13 pm #85875mitchmaineParticipantjust heard the sound of a dozen or two framing squares coming out of tool boxes all across new england. mine included. not as bad as i thought it might be. i’m ahead by about 1/8 in two feet. looking at it, it appears the heel of the mower is afloat to some degree there. hooked to the evener, and fast to the wishbone brace and the leveling bar. so is there some movement there? ahead with the strain from the horses, and behind with the weight of the mower and the grass. any adjustments we make are influenced by several forces all at the same time. seems more of an art than a science.
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