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Brad Johnson
ParticipantJohn-
Plug yoke looks great. I use a similar design on my arch and it is a real asset in the woods. The short pole length allows you to work in tight spaces with a team, and it also fits in my trailer with my horses, making transport to job sites much easier.How do you find the arch works with a load on? I used an older version of that arch and found it to be heavy and unbalanced with a load on – too much pole weight. It looks at though they may have made some changes in the version you have there.
-BradParticipantGeoff-
Having used Stihl and Huskies for a number of years, I bought a red saw last year – Jons 2172. They had a swap and save deal, and the price was right. Having cut quite a bit of wood with it, I highly recommend it. I still have a Husky 357, but hardly ever use it nowexcept at the landing. The clutch design on the Jons is better, with no special tool to take it apart, the parts are cheaper, and it is super durable so far. It has plenty of power, but the turbo really screams, so wear your ear protection. The 357 I have has been a bot of a lemon, so maybe that is clouding my thoughts, but I really like the Jonsered.
-BradParticipantJay-
You might try shortening up your trace chains so that once you are hooked the evener is well up off the ground. That way, not only do you avoid the sound of the metal on the ground but you also improve your angle of draft and get more lift on the front of the logs.
-BradParticipantThanks very much. I will get him in touch with the folks in Oxford.
-BradParticipantDitto on what Jim said. I have a lever but never use it. Two wedges and a real peavey make much more sense for felling, I think.
-BradParticipantAdam-
Can’t seem to find any number for you except home in Wolcott – what is the MO #?
-BradParticipantI second much of what has been said here. And, I would add that backing up is not a natural or instinctive behavior for a mule or horse. They would just as soon turn around right? So, it takes a good relationship and some trust on their part to have them back effectively. I use a butt rope too, but I think time and practice make the biggest difference. A calm teamster with deliberate and consistent commands help a great deal. Good luck!
-BradParticipantI would strongly recommend that you do not use standard pulling shoes for work. I have tried that options on my logging team and it does not work well. They are too long, putting lots of pressure on the horses legs as well as on the nails, and they are cumbersome for the horses as they catch on slash in the woods.
I think that Donn is right to recommend that you may not need shoes unless you are doing regular commercial work or your conditions are really tricky. If you find you need shoes, you can take a torch or grinder and take down the corks on a set of pulling shoes until they are more manageable (3/8″) or so. But, if you have ice you also need to tip them with drill tech or borium or you will find them no better than ice skates. A good farrier can do this for you. I think a second, better option, is to order flat shoes (I use Kerckhaert 3/8″, unclipped) and drill holes in them. Then you can order studs, threaded or drive-in. If you choose the threaded you will need a tap to thread the holes, and the drive in studs just need a tool to drive them in. These studs have a borium center with softer steel around it, and they come in different sizes and shapes. Check Meader Supply in NH (online) for all these supplies, including the shoes. I work in VT on steep and icy ground and have found that this second option works very well, along with chain to hold back my sled loads. But, as Donn said you may find that you do not need shoes at all. Good luck and be safe out there!
-BradParticipantBill-
Unfortunately I have too many animals in the barn already, but I do like the sound of that team. That Bob horse continues to be the best worker I have ever had! I now have him teamed up with his half brother, out of the same stud, Acer.
-BradParticipantAdam-
This looks great – can I send Maddie??
-Brad- AuthorPosts