[jac]

Come on guys, get real…. Flames would only work with chromed sidewinder exausts:D
John

[jac]

Mark that spreader looks the same as the old Massey-Harris we got over here.. might be worth a cross check to see if there is any parts interchangability.. if not then Josh is right, you’ve nothing to loose.. other option is to fabricate a replacement.. the boss will be keyed onto the axle so most bearing suppliers can get bosses with key channels cut in them. then go to your steel stockist and get them to profile cut a 2″ thick piece of steel with a hole to suit the boss and weld the two together.. sounds a long way for a simple part but if you cant source a replacement it might be the only way to go.. looks like a great spreader otherwise.. good luck..
John

[jac]

Thanks Josh.. I’m foning Zimmermans tonite and ask if they can do a set in granit. I’ll let you know…
John

[jac]

Hey Andy… Yes its mud here a lot.. we only get 2 seasons here winter and June…. but that feather hides a lot and I recon if most of the show horses over here were clipped out there would be some signs on most.. the old Clyde men blame the Shire for giving it to the Clyde thru the cross breeding that went on years ago:D who knows…just have to persevere with it. Cheers..
John

[jac]

Would any of you guys be willing to price up what it would cost me to get a can of your best syrup shipped over to Scotland. My daughter and me have a real taste for maple syrup but I suspect we dont get the finest stuff in our stores:(.. and it only comes in 1/4 pint plastic bottles for “drizzling”.. dont want to drizzle.. want to GLUG the stuff over my pancakes:D Cheers…

John

[jac]

Found this site that might be usefull for anyone fabricating new machines or building new versions of old ones …http://www.freepatentsonline.com[/url%5D..
Found a harrow cart.. patent number 1604897 and a plastic film applicator for field work.. patent number US5226376
Good line drawings and lots of detailed writting..
John

[jac]

Marshall you mentioned you were working on a film applicator.. I was trawling the “freepatentsonline” web site and found patent number US5226376 .. plus a few related inventions..cheers…
John

[jac]

Has anyone had anything made with “granit” material ? I was sent a sample and it looks similar to what I believe is “beta”. The “bio” is the shiny material.. isnt it ???.. Reason I ask is I’m getting a set of D ring harnes made for me at Zimmermans and before I send off the measurements I want to be certain I get it made with the right stuff..Becky at Zimmermans sent me a foto of the bio set but my daughter wondered if the shine would show up scuffs too easy ?? any thoughts..
John

[jac]

An update on the greasy heel prob I had.. Took countymouse advice and clipped.. that feather can hide a lot:( washed and carefully dried his legs. An old vet told me to use zinc oxide powder. dried it up great but a week after we started with the zinc, we wormed them with an Ivomec based wormer, Now I believe this drug combats the mite that can get blamed on this condition. So we now dont realy know if the zinc is working on its own or if the Ivomec helped too ?? Another lesson learned… dont mix treatments. I should have held off the wormer for a week or so. Can only wait now. If it stays clear we will use the sulpher and pig oil again as simon mentioned. We had been using it but I think once it gets a hold you need some stronger ammo…
John

[jac]

I suspect case hardening might be one proccess that we use a lot. Im thinking of eveners.. would the 3 points of contact benefit from the oil quench?? when I made mine I just let them cool in the air but would they be better heated up and plunged in oil ?? Have to say they arent showing any signs of wear yet.
John

[jac]

Can someone who knows, post the effects of quenching steel in various liquids.. oil ..water.. air cooling and any other neat stuff that can be done with steel and fire..
John

[jac]

Hi Geoff.. Im afraid Im a bit backward when it comes to computers.. I use “Paint” in the Windows program. Nice and simple with straight lines, squares ,rectangles curves and circles. You can add words and alter the thickness of the lines.. even rub stuff out {I do that a lot:)}. There is a thing called “Cad Creations” but I dont have it, and having watched a friend who has, think i’ll stick with the “paint” for a while.. The hood of my forge has a lot of old chalk scribbles too..
John

[jac]

Thats perfecto Mitch !! A long throw lever would lift them no probs.. Those seeders in the foto look very similar to “WEBB” seeders that were popular here for sowing turnip and other small seed..
John

[jac]

Erika.. the 2ft of scrap you would have left… John Plowdens log arch uses the shafts as traces.. So could a hand lever pivot not be built into that principal to lift the seeder ?? if the shafts ended at the seeder instead of the timber arch and a small light wheel could be levered down to lift the seeder… ??
John

[jac]

This is going to be a useful tool, as is the whole DAP network.. A few basic points that should be observed BEFORE any form of fabrication or restoration takes place…
1. SAFETY !!!.. Ear defenders, eye protection and especially if your working on a pre1960 machines be aware that lead based paint was in common use on old machines… so DONT breathe the dust if you’re grinding or sanding old paint. WEAR A MASK !!! Gloves.. sharp metal and hot steel takes no prisoners.. If you have to work under Gods workshop roof be extra sure to have a SAFETY TRIP switch between you and the power source.

2. Know your limitations. Sounds simple but its so easy to think “how hard can this be”.. till your in too deep. Use your computer to draw any brand new ideas you have. It works believe me. When you arrange your “cutting list” it pays dividends.. Remember.. measure twice cut once !!!. most steel stock holders dont charge much to supply your order pre cut to length.. least mine doesnt..

3. If dismantling.. write labels for everything.. Its so easy to tear a machine down, then with things like calving or seeding or the multitude of distractions that spring up when we live the kind of lives we live, you go back to your “project” and think.. “where the heck does this bit go”.

4. When arranging a square frame for example, dont just rely on the set square to check for squareness.. measure both diagonals.. they should be the same..

5. Be aware of the particular material you are welding.. Mild steel, which will be the most likely material, poses no problems.. However if that mild steel is GALVANISED and you weld or burn it for any length of time without adequate ventilation, you WILL get what we call over here “the galvy flu”.. and that is horrible..

6. Use clamps to help counter weld pull. If you run out of clamps tack a strap in place and remove later.. and tack on both sides all over the job once you are settled with the measurements. Measure again !!.Only then weld.. If making a square frame for example with 2″ box section, then quickly weld the internal verticals 1st. That way if it pulls..and it will pull.. you can alter the diagonal measurements BEFORE you start the top welds. do it the other way and the frame is set..

7.Use the workshop floor to draw a full size version of what you want. If its a hinged lever for example, use cardboard and drawing pins to duplicate the mechanism BEFORE you cut steel.

8. Drill all holes in brackets before its welded up. If hydraulic rams or bars that you cant be certain of their final position need to be fitted, then dont be afraid to drill a variety of holes, but try and keep them in a tidy pattern. Nothing worse than trying to drill holes in a bracket that you can only get to if you are upside down.

9. Check if your steel stock holder has a PROFILE BURNER.. if he has, then use it to make any brackets or intricate shapes in flat steel including any holes you want … draw what you want on paper, take it to them and they will transfer it to computer.. the time saved cutting and cleaning up can be used else where..

10. Enjoy

I know we have some professional fabricators on board and this was in no way aimed at you guys. I’m trying to help the guys that can weld but perhaps not professionally and could over look some of the safety issues and become unstuck.. To everyone.. DAP is a valuable tool that can really push animal traction forward. Use it. Ask and someone will have an answer. I personally have learned so much since finding this site. It can only get better.. Happy welding and dont forget the photos
John

[Author]

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