[paintpony]

Actually, no, I haven’t found a mower. My hubby and I went back and forth about either a one horse or a two horse. But, now we are stalled in getting any mowers because he wrecked his 18 wheeler in early Jan. and funds are now limited. Will have to wait till he’s back to work and making more than what workman’s comp provides.

[paintpony]

I have done some looking into A1/A2 studies. If I were going to buy a cow and I had a choice between the two, I go for the A2/A2 cow as first pick, then I’d pick an A1/A2 cow and breed her to an A2/A2 bull with the hopes of getting an A2/A2 heifer. Here’s a link I have

http://www.vgl.ucdavis.edu/services/A2Genotyping.php

[paintpony]

I would say no because you have said she has pulled pipes, tires, etc. If she was yielding to pressure, then she would have been doing this all along.

Does the collar fit properly? Has she really pulled something heavy enough to put weight on the collar? Did that bother her? Is the back pad putting pressure on her spine?

After having checked to make sure she is in no pain. And checked to make sure she understands the walk on cue away from the cart. Try having her drag something like a log. Does she rear up? Does she stop pulling?

If she can pull a log, she can pull a cart. More than likely, it’s that you are anxious and are hanging on to her head in anticapition that shes going to run. Which was the whole point of using a truck in front of her to keep her moving forward but still in control without hanging on her face.

I hope I’m being helpful.

[paintpony]

I have to agree with what countymouse and carl have both said. They are much more clear than I could ever be.

[paintpony]

Bucking straps go over the top of the rump. Attached on both sides of the shaft so that it won’t slide back. I usually loop it where the hold backs attach. It should be adjusted loose enough that it will only come into play should she decide to buck/kick. The middle of the strap goes in the ring on the top of the britchen on top of the rump.

Why is she rearing? What kind of bit are you using? Is it properly adjusted? Keep her moving forward.

[paintpony]

Well, it sounds like she’s had a great start then. How was she in the pvc shafts? Was she listening to the walk on cue at that point? If she was okay with that, then it’s not the shafts.

If you have a very low traffic dirt road, or even better a large field with no obstacles that you can drive a truck in, this is what I would do. I saw this on youtube being done by a professional driving trainer in the UK. I used this method on my pony that had some abuse/trust issues. I did this I think 4 times before driving him without aid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pw3vCvRmhTQ

Hook the horse up to the cart behind a truck (I would do some ground work first, to get horse’s mind) with a person holding lead rope attached to halter (use a rope halter) in bed of truck so horse can’t get her nose past the truck and SLOWLY drive the truck around while you are in the cart driving the horse. The truck will slow the horse down so that she can’t run and you are still in control. If she should try and start running, let the truck slow her down and the person in the bed of the truck must keep her head as close to the middle of the truck as possible. Drive around and around until she calms down with plenty of Whoas and Walk Ons. Don’t stop until she is walking calmly and listening to you.

Also are you using a bucking strap on your cart? I would highly reccomend using one until you have confidence that she isn’t going to do any bucking.

[paintpony]

Eli,

I don’t know what training method you are using, but it sounds to me that you have not desentized her to things touching her. I would suggest before you put her back in shafts that you look into natural horsemanship methods. I personally like Clinton Anderson because he is very clear in communicating what the horse should be doing and what you should be doing.

Also one of the ways I descintized my horses to the noise of the single tree etc. was to tie a plastic bag to a lunge whip with tin cans inside and using the natural horsemanship method of approach and retreat got them used to that and then asked them to walk around me while I had the lash of the whip over their back and dragging the cans around their back legs. But, please do the basics before attempting to use the tin cans. That way your horse knows what is expected of her.

[paintpony]

Thanks, Donn! He’s become a real help around here.

I’m loving all the great points everyone is making.

How does one go about replacing the steel wheels with tires? And is that prefered over the steel wheels or not? Just curious.

Thanks!

[paintpony]

Thanks! You are really helping me alot. At this point I’m going to guess that the pony is just as strong as the horse as he has been pulling/driving for 2 yrs now. I took him out for a 10 mile drive a couple of weeks ago, still eager to go at the end. The horse on the other hand is not in shape and is quite lazy.

Would you describe to me the dolly wheel? Where can I find one and what height should it be set at? Also, how do you attach it to the mower? Could I use the wheels off of an old disc?

I will definetly make sure the horses are ready before hooking up to mower, that would be a monster of a wreck!

Figured out how to add photo of my pony pulling a tree top that fell in the driveway.

[paintpony]

I have considered working the two together, but I had concerns with them being an unmatched pair. My DH didn’t think that two different sized horses would be able to work together. It would certainly be eaiser to find equipment if I could work them as a team. I have been using the pony for driving, pulling logs and I have a garden cart that I pull behind the forecart for odd jobs. I have finally found a good used harness for the mare, and will start training her to hook up to the cart. She already ground drives and will pull the single tree, no problem.

How would you go about hooking them together so that they are working evenly? And also can a pony and a quarter horse pull a two horse mower without too much fatigue?

[paintpony]

Hi Donn,

At this point, I’d say at the max I’d want to mow 5 acres (not all at once). I have a 12 hand pony, and a 15 hand quarter horse. Money, I’m on a budget, but want something I don’t have to fix. If it came down to it, and I couldn’t find a one horse used, I’ll have to save my pennies for an I&J ground drive.

Located in AR.

Why do you say the one horse mowers are harder to setup and maintain? Would love to hear of your experience with them.

Thanks

[paintpony]

Smaller blade length would be more manuverable and less weight. I have lots of rocks, so I’d think wheels wouldn’t be the way to go.

I have no idea on the pulling power and maintainable speed. He’s about 12 hands tall and I’d have to guess his weight until I get a weight tape. If any of that helps.

Would prefer standard side mount so I can make hay and/or grain.

[paintpony]

Well,

I for one would really like to have a small sickle bar mower, ground driven so that I could use my Welsh size pony to pull it.

[Author]

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