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Brad, did you ever get a welder? personally would look for a power supply, I went to school for welding and before I started class I bought a AC/DC stick welder with a High Freq box on it so I could tig weld alum with it, I got a bottle of argon with it everything to weld, paid 700 for it, after I went to school I found I shouldn’t have got that machine and got a miller trailblazer 225G with a 8K watt gen on it its a portable unit with ac and dc and can run a wirefeeder for mig, I since got a miller xtm305 also thats a inverter and I paid 1200 for the welder and a sp22a wire feeder with all new leads
PeytonMParticipantAlright I just got in from working on both my New Idea No.10 and my Case No.5 I have questions for both and I’ll start off with the New Idea.
First I want to go through the whole bar and put on new guards and knives. I had a hard time pulling the sickle out of it, mainly due to all kinds of dirt and mud being on the bottom part by the ball that the end of the pittman bolts to, I finally did get it out after I used a rope and tied it to it and pulled on it pretty good. The first think I wanted to know is every guard on this bar is a single, one per knife. I found some new guards that went to my dads old NH haybine, not sure what model but I held them up and all the bolt holes lined up. these do not have the ledger plated in them and with the 5 ft bar thats on this mower I would use 7 of the NH guards ( a single guard will guard 2 knives also) and I’d have to find a NH single guard to make it all work out right. I was going to used the knives that are jagged I think they are called haybine knives also? not really sure.
The question I have on my case when I got it the guy put all new guards and knives, I assume the guards are off a JD of some sort due to the fact they are green and they have ledger plates in them also. This bar has the jagged knives on it also and I noticed tonight when I was replacing the pittman arm that gap on the knive and the guards are a healthy 3/16th of an inch. I didn’t really see much for shims on the hold downs. can anyone help me out and tell me what the gap should be? I got it all timed in and seems that it would work ok but I think that the knives have too big of a gap and it would just plug up with hay/ grass.
the other think I wanted to know if on the bottom part that would float across the ground I don’t know that the term would be the Case has a plate welded on to it so it would only be able to go 2 inches from the ground, there is a plate on each end so if the bar is dropped it would run a level 2 inches from the ground, the guards would never be able to touch the dirt is that right because on the New Idea it just has a flat wear plate, nothing to hold the bar up from touching the ground.
thanks for the help, I’m having a hard time getting pics on here with my phone. hope to have some soon though.
PeytonMParticipantHey Carl, you must have a newer one then mine, I have steel wheels. also post a picture of where your fly wheel is cracked.
I also don’t have any adjustments for lead or timing what so ever I think If timing was off I would have to do it with the pittman arm i dont know if that is right or not..
the lugs on these wheels are pretty wore down, I think I’m going to have to do what you did to your mower Donn. I was also thinking about finding some tractor tires that were smaller and cutting the tire out of it and maybe bolting it on like they do to some of the old steel wheeled tractors…
I’m not sure how soon I’ll be able to use this mower.
I found out yesterday when I was in Amish country that people steal the bars off tractor sickle mowers and they swap right out. I think my case mower and this new idea are very close. I noticed that this New Idea is missing the arm that locks the sickle up and that whole assembly looks just like my case so I plan to copy that one if I was able to.
I have been looking at different mowers and I’ve found a few other work’s in progress McCormick’s a No 6 and a No7, I know that the No. 7 and 9 or I think that those two are the more popular models are there much difference value wise if the mower is all there and just need to be gone through? between a 6 and a 7 that is.
I’ll post some pictures of mine up here in a little bit hopefully
PeytonMParticipantI have a feeling I’m just going to making a trip to the Amish and get all this stuff cause I have hay that needs to be down….
PeytonMParticipantpost me a picture of what your talking about is it the bracket you need or the bearing housing?
I’m going down to the Amish this week if you’d like I can stop at the one guys shop and see if there anywhere you can order parts fast and have them shipped.
I think that most the parts they just order out of a book… just build the frame and rollers
PeytonMParticipantpretty snazzy, another thing you can use if you have the ablity to get your hands on it is a tig with s309 wire, thats is what I normally use when I weld cast in place of the nickle rods… biggest issue with the cast is controlling the heat.
how long of bars do these mowers have?
kind of an off question but ever wonder why spreader wheels have bars angled and mowers are straight?
PeytonMParticipantI went down to the Amish to get some stuff and looked at a fellers MC No.9 High Gear and seen they had a spring on them. I guess there is a guy down there that building them for around 125-150 I think he said but I know that there only is not very much expense there for the cost of material. I can get all the steel needed fairly cheap and all I’d have in it is my time.
Carl,
I did do several different searches both on this site and on others and I came across a few pictures that Donn had posted and a few other links but nothing that really answered my questions. I couldn’t really find anything about how far out it should be, the height any thing like that. I also noticed that they have a plate that the rod that goes to the inner part of the mower and would normally hook on the evener or the pole I think, on the dolly set up it goes on a little plate that slides? why is that?
PeytonMParticipanteven if I was ready to cut hay there no way it would be done, I think we got a good 2 inches of rain lastnight and last weekend we got over 5… its soggy places that were always dry no matter what are now wet… really wet..
PeytonMParticipantI dont know what you all have for animals but it wouldn’t take much to get set up to cut and rake it on your own, you can get a sickle mower rebuilt fron Don, or another member from out there thats ready to roll and find a good rake use on line for around a grand. in time you could get a older small square baler and bale it on your own with horses or a small tractor. if you had 4K in it I would say that would be the high end.
PeytonMParticipantok thanks
PeytonMParticipantthanks for the help! I’m gonna get one of those things and try to thin it out like this what do you do when their hair spins like a dred lock kind of? its just little spindles of hair that have spun together its not snarled, it just is curled lenghtwise if that makes any sense
PeytonMParticipantno worries I went out and did a little playing around and got it figured out. at first I had the hitch point for the work sled almost right behind the middle horse. That was a little bit too far for the single horse. so I moved it towards the team evener and it worked a lot better. I also had the team of percherons I normally work together split up and put my belgian mare in the middle for a few reasons. one, the perch are mother daughter team and the daughter as been a PITA! just a crab and I’ve been told its the mare in her and to get her bred. the other reason is this way I had a line one each side of he bit because she was used for a pulling horse and from a stop is really jumpy and hauls the mail. I have a vid of it but I wasn’t able to get it to upload on here. I’ll keep trying through.
I had a blast with this hitch today I felt untouchable as far as what they could do, they would spin right around like they were on a dime just had a few hairy moments on taking off with that belg mare…
PeytonMParticipantRivendell Farm how big is your team evener? I have one that I was going to start getting a 3 abreast built with and if I use the measurements that you gave the middle horse evener and the outside single evener had about a 4 inch over lap. I’m using a piece of pipe that dad had from a drag section that he scrapped out. there are 3 rings on it so I figured that I would be able to use them accordingly to hook with.
I’m going to town to get some light chain to use as check lines and hook on their hame rings.
I’m hoping I will be able to hook them on the stone boat yet to day if it doesn’t rain out…
PeytonMParticipantwhat if it was on a wagon? My sister gets married on June 7th, I have a team of perch and a belg. mare I’d like to hook and have them go perch belg perch. my dad has a flat rack wagon that has about 2 foot sides that you can put in pockets and I’m gonna put them on it and change it so it uses a pole so I can drive the horses on it. I’m hauling the wedding party about 3 miles from the church to bar to start the bar hop. I know the perch would be able to pull it I just wanted to do something one off. I really would like to use all 5 of my horses but I don’t see that happening. I was going to have two wagon’s and have a team pull the bride and groom and then a 3 abreast pull the wedding party but my friend that helps me with horses says that would be too much work being I’m in the wedding also so I’ve come to the 3 abreast hitch.
thanks for the help.
PeytonMParticipantwith the pole off center does it have any issues turning? didn’t know since if you had it off set of it would swing more or what not
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