#6 and big 6

Hi Harvey, My guess is you won’t find too many people with experience in all three models. Maybe you will. The big thing about the #7 and the # 9 was that the made them into the 1940’s and in the 20’s and 30’s they made millions. They are all over, (around here!) and there are parts available. I have never taken a hard look at any other mower. I am sure there are many other models that can and are being used to good effect.

Each knife section is popular in certain areas and crops. The smooth knife was traditional for old style guards with ledger plates that have serrations of their own. Under serrated knives are still sharpenable. The top serrated knife is not sharpenable. Many folks today are using double guard typically made for a haybine or other more modern mower. The serrated knifes make sense with these smooth sided guards that have no ledger plate. I know that in different Amish communities there are different preferences, sometimes it is the difference between mowing a lot of alfalfa versus a lot of grass hay. I think the stemmier crop the more it lends it self to an aggressive serration. I have heard from many people that the smooth knife and grass hay is the best ever.

I traded off my #6 mower because of the exposed gears and the worn pitman bearing. Looked like a good mower other than that. #9’s and #7’s are easier to find everything for. Also around this area lots of JD #4’s which are also a good machine.
I did experiment just a little with smooth vs. over serrated sections and in grass hay the smooth sections are best…if you keep them good and sharp. The over serrated will cut but you see lot’s more side draft than a good, sharp smooth section.
An old timer here has a good, solid #6 that he claims is the best of all the mowers. I never ran it so I can’t say for sure. He also said the #7 was a very good mower.

Donn I may have to parcel up a knife guard and mail you it to see if an equivelant can be found on your side. I have an Albion mower and spares are like hens teeth to find now.. most mowers over here ended up being shaken to pieces at 8 mph cutting thistles behind a tractor…
John

I have a 6 and a 9 – started with the 6 and did some repair/renovations, in fact that external gear “blew apart” after some pea gravel got jammed between the knife and a guard. Don’t know why the pitman stick didn’t bust first – that’s why it’s wood (like the precursor to the shear pin). Many of the parts cross over. I didn’t find out until recently that the gear box was oilless as well – it seems weird to have the pitman and ring gears enclosed but have 1/2″ hole in the bottom of the case. I thought the “plug” must have broke off – nope!

John, you might want to try some sort of synthetic gear lube. I put used synthetic oil on my all steel manure spreader. That stuff sticks on like glue. I don’t know why but it will stay on for months even after rain.