D-Ring Neck Yoke Dimensions?

[Carl Russell]

On the slop at the bolt, there are bushings and washers designed to adjust the trace up or down depending on the positioning of the trace in relation to the point of the shoulder. Rule of thumb; the bottom of the trace should be positioned about the width of an adult hand with fingers spread, from the tip of the thumb to the tip of pinky finger, up from the point of the shoulder.

I have not bought new harness, I’ve been able to find really good used ones. Again Les Barden has had a few harnesses built by some good leather-workers in NH. I have had really difficult times working with Amish harnesses makers, because of the distance, and the difficulty of adequately describing the desired product by mail. This is not to say they don’t do a good job, I was unable to have a successful transaction. There are many different assumptions about harnesses based on regional preferences that it can be hard to overcome that.

Good luck, Carl

[Gabe Ayers]

Ira and several northern horse loggers convinced us to switch to D-ring several years ago. They simply make the horses more comfortable with the tongue weight. You will notice in the upcoming Rural Heritage RFD-TV series that our horses stand perfectly still when at rest, never rubbing their heads on the breast yoke or wringing their necks….

We got our conversion kits from Peach Lane Harness shop in Pa. As mentioned before we use a 46 and 48 inch wide double tree and breast yoke combo. We use 28 inch whiffle trees on the breast yoke to keep the front traces off the horses forearms to prevent chaffing as I have seen on some horses worked in D-ring regularly. We get our metal double tree, breast yoke, wide whiffle trees from Dale Stolfus at Log Cabin Sales in Pa. I don’t have an address for him but a number is: 717-940-4412, email: [email]logcab7@ptd..net[/email]

Peach Lane Harness Shop
Abner S. Esh, 88 Peach Lane, Ronks, Pa. 17572
phone: 717-687-5122

I agree with Carl the front tug is to long and should be about 20 inches not 22. Also the Esh conversion kits need extra holes burnt in the nylon to allow full adjustment. Just ask for him to make it to your specifications. They cost us about 250.00 team set to convert normal western style harness to d-ring.

Hope this helps.

[Ira]

I have had really difficult times working with Amish harnesses makers, because of the distance, and the difficulty of adequately describing the desired product by mail. This is not to say they don’t do a good job, I was unable to have a successful transaction. There are many different assumptions about harnesses based on regional preferences that it can be hard to overcome that.

Carl, I would be willing to relay messages if the shipping costs didn’t make the cost of the harness prohibitive. Much easier/faster to email me than to wait on the US mail.

Jason, I finally solved the rubbing problem by buying leather straps for the jockey yoke hooks. I had to replace the nylon to often because the holes for the buckles would tear out. Using leather also healed the sores.

[ngcmcn]

Jason
thanks for the lead on the Western to D-Ring conversion. I”ll check it out. I’ve got more then a few western harness around.

Neal McNaughten
Unity, me.

[ACE]

Carl could you post the sketch or pic of the neck yoke I can’t seem to open it

Thanks.

[Does’ Leap]

A harness maker you might try is Zimmerman’s Harness: (717) 354-5667. Prices are about half of the harness makers listed in the Small Farmer’s Journal, you can reach her by phone anytime, and she usually ships the same day. She recently sent me 20′ beta team lines for $60 and mixed the colors (one brown, one black per Jason’s recommendation so you know your gee and haw lines in a pinch).

George

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