Dubba look what i did!- Includes discussion of adjusting driving lines.

DAPNET Forums Archive Forums Draft Animal Power Horses Dubba look what i did!- Includes discussion of adjusting driving lines.

Viewing 6 posts - 16 through 21 (of 21 total)
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  • #51305
    Donn Hewes
    Keymaster

    Larry, Try not to worry about centering the collars. When a youngster is learning they may wiggle around a little, but given three points that are all in agreement their bodies will naturally want to work in a straight line as they relax. Plus we can’t directly effect the placement of the collar left or right. We can control the yoke, the evener and the lines (ie. the head).

    many folks never take the lines off the harness. They just unbuckle The stub line from the inside of the bit and hang it on the opposite horse till next time. provided those lines were put on right to begin with this prevents the confusion in the future of putting a line on backward with the short end going to the wrong horse.

    I always take all my lines off completely for several reasons. The many one is I use the same lines to drive several different teams and every day it is different. I also keep all my team lines knotted or buckled at the far end. That makes it hard to leave them on the harness. I order to put the lines on every day and be quick but also be sure I am putting the on right, I don’t look for the long end and the short end. All my lines are set with the stub line coming from the bottom of the buckle. As I stand between the horses, I take the buckle were the lines split in my hand, face up, and I know the line on top goes over the back. Once I have laid them out I move in front of the team and buckle them from one end to the other. Because those lines are different lengths you need a system to make sure they are going on right, especially if you are taking them off as I am every time.

    I am not suggesting that you weren’t already doing this but just throwing it out as a general suggestion for anyone looking for a way make sure they are getting them on right.

    As Far as my spreaders and how I use them, I will look for a picture to illustrate it. Donn

    #51317

    I was aware that horse size came into play and it does in my case (just my luck). That is where I think I confuse myself and the headaches start. If you have an easy way to figure my way through that I would really appreciate it.

    don’t know if it easy but I’ll try:
    your given measurements (as I understood) were:
    Stubline (inner line) 8 inches longer than draftline (outer line)

    horsesize differs?
    try to imagine your team from above:

    big horses need more space in between them, they move with a greater distance towards each other, so the stublines have to give: make them longer 1 or 2 inches in relation to the outer line
    (identical to longer evener/yoke for horses that need more room as mentioned before, and your clue there was: 1 inch more stubline for every 2 inches of longer evener)

    smaller horses need less space in between, so they move closer to each other, you can shorten the stublines for an inch or 2 in relation to your outer line (these horses can also work on a shorter evener)

    since I’m not sure what your lines look like, I assume the inner lines are hooked onto the outer lines, so they are of definite length but can be moved up and down (forwards and backwards on) the outer/draftline

    so in order to increase the difference between inner and outer line in the case of big horses, move the stubline 1 inch or 2 further forwards on the outer line; in the case of smaller horses move the stubline back an inch or two

    does it make sense now?
    doesn’t have anything to do with how much line you have in your hand when driving them.

    I’d also like to see a picture of a line spreader…..
    elke

    #51311
    LStone
    Participant

    Thanks again for the advice here. I have been out a couple times to implement the ideas you all have given. I baselined my lines to 8 inches longer on the stub than the draft lines. Felt way different and I think was better. I noticed that there was still slop in one stub rein and before I adjust an inch or two to get rid of that I want to make sure that it is too long rather than the other being too short. I think I found another thing that I am doing that would influence this adjustment.

    I was given advice that on a young team to run a line from the lower outside hames ring around back through the harness breechings to the opposite hames ring. I noted that I may be inconsistant with the taughtness of this line on any given hitching. You can see what I mean by the broad side pictures I posted in my original post here. I am thinking that this line would influence greatly the line adjustment based upon it being loose or tight.

    I am thinking if the concept of the line is a good idea. It seems to work and be necessary, but the device (the line) I am using may not be optimum. Instead should I use a hames strap or the like fastened to the inside of the breeching of both harnesses to keep the horses together and parrallel to the pole? It would allow for a more consistant hitching. If not I’ll continue to do as I am and adjust as I think appropriate.

    Thanks again,
    Larry

    #51312
    LStone
    Participant

    I am re-floating my last post. Are there any comments on it? The kids are done eating and I have a cople indoor chores to do before I go play today.

    Thanks
    Larry

    #51300
    Carl Russell
    Moderator

    Larry I have never used the set up like you are currently using, but I have used the hame strap between britchen rings. I usually only use that in the early stages of ground driving, backing, and turning, say for hitching, stepping over the pole, etc.

    Once the horses are on a pole, I tend to disconnect them, to give them more freedom of movement. If the strap is holding their butts together, but the reins are set too narrow, you will be working against yourself. I am more inclined to drive them, and adjust the lines so that they are able to travel straight, rather than using a strap, or line to hold them in position.

    Similarly, if they do not travel at the same speed, or one is more aggressive on the bit, or one shy, I find that I prefer working individually to correct the problem by encouraging one, or slowing the other, rather that relying on the strap or such device to accomplish that.

    Carl

    #51313
    LStone
    Participant

    Carl,

    I hitched them taking your advice about disconnecting the rope after backing in and hooking. Thank you, I think you were on to something there. When I set them loose in the tugs after they were hooked they seemed to plane out a little easier when moving and the lines got a little better for me. I think that maybe the rope may have been too tight on some hitches, causing confusion for me after I would have the lines adjusted from the last hitch. Anyhow, we go out again this weekend so this will be the big test for consistancy, and logically I think that consistancy is what I am looking for.

    Larry

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