"Easy Cut" vs. Haybine Guards and Knives Comparison

[Does’ Leap]

I have been using the Easy Cut system http://www.schumacherlc.com/Schumacher_LC/Easy-Cut-II/ on an MD # 9 for 4 years now. Overall, I have been very pleased with it’s performance. I put together another #9 with new haybine guards and knives this year. After clipping pastures and cutting hay for a couple of months now, I feel I can make an accurate comparison.

The haybine guards and knives clog less and do a better job “cleaning up” the edges of the field or irregular patches where you are plowing through already cut grass. I think the stub guards really seem to make a difference here. On the other hand, I feel like the Easy Cut requires less draft. I have no way of measuring draft, but the Easy Cut seems to run more smoothly and quietly with no hold downs to add resistance to the system. Despite this, I would still go with haybine guards and knives.

George

[Jay]

George, Thanks for all the effort, thought and all you have put into this project AND for sharing that with us. Thanks again, Jay

[Donn Hewes]

Hi George, I second Jay in thanks for the update. It is so hard to do these kinds of comparisons. Cutting the same plants, same moisture, same horses, etc. I have been working with two mowers for years, and have used different guards and knives at different times. I have some I like more than others, but it is always hard to say for sure that one is better than the other. For a long time I felt my # 7 seven pulled easier than my #9; just a better knife and all haybine guards. This year that mower was the one that was causing plugging problems in some of our tougher mowing conditions. I finally decided that the # seven needs lugs improved (they are about half worn) and while the mower pulls easily in lighter mowing conditions, the poor wheels allow the knife to slow slightly when heavy mowing is encountered. This naturally leads to more knife slowing and plugging. One of my goals for this winter is turn learn to update worn wheels. I have seen some really nice jobs done. So many things that go into making a mower that works great.

[Tim Harrigan]

Yes, George, thanks. I agree with Donn that it is very difficult to make direct comparisons in this type of work, but if you can observe different set-ups in a range of conditions it is very useful for predicting what will be most effective for the conditions at hand. I have had some experience with the quick-cut bar with soybean and dry bean harvest on combine heads, but have not had a chance to use them on a mower. So thanks for sharing your observations.

[mitchmaine]

i had two no.9’s, both reg. gear, the only difference was one was on rubber. both in similar shape(not rebuilt) but seals and guards when needed, and one ran great in june grass and second cut, and the other ran better when grass started going to wire. go figure.

[Iron Rose]

Donn

How do you rebuild the lugs on a mower? I have a #7 mower that sure could use the lugs built up. Was thinking about using a cast iron welding rod to build them up.

Thanks
Dan
SE MN

[Tim Harrigan]

Never did it. Seems like you could braze them up.

[Donn Hewes]

Iron Rose, I have a few people I want to talk to about the best way to do it, but I have seen some good jobs. I wouldn’t use just the rod, but rather add some piece of stock. I have seen them with 1/2″ rebar added, or about a 3/8″ square stock. That way you are adding enough to make a really difference. I have a broken wheel here so that is a good place for me to start. I have been planning to work on that on the next rainy day, but I have been saying that for the last six months!

[J-L]

Good too see a valid comparison. Thanks for taking time to test them.

I set up my #9 with swather guards and smooth sections, it works great. Three stub guards on the inside of the 6′ bar works very well and gives you enough wiggle room so you’re not plugging the inside up too often.

I have noticed the stub guards tend to leave just a little fine grass on most every swath. Can’t seem to fix it, but it’s not enough to really matter. Have you ever noticed this?

[Donn Hewes]

Most often the stub guard won’t cut just as good as the regular guard. as you say I wouldn’t go with out them. Unfortunately the double guard only leaves us the choice of an odd number of stub guards. I tried putting one stub guard on a couple mowers for folks this spring and they called me back within days wanting two more. I think two might be the ideal number, and have set up mowers with one good old style guard (2041?) before the double guards. For anyone not familiar with these things there is a solid stub guard sold for haybines, that really doesn’t mow at all (even on a haybine!). Don’t put these on your mower. The stub guard we are referring to is made with a knife section up side down and riveted to a pea guard. Amish sometimes refer to them as turtle guards. Donn

[Does’ Leap]

I would like to rig a set of stub guards on my Easy Cut Mower. Unfortunately the knife on the East Cut works on a slightly higher plane than a regular knife section (on the manufacturer’s recommendation, I had to shim up the inside and outside ledger plates). Can someone explain why regular guards tend to plug on the inside more than other parts of the mower? I can understand if your grassboard doesn’t do a good job (or you or the horses veer off the cleared path), but other than that the inside faces the same conditions as the rest of the mower, no? Still, my mowers plug mostly on the inside followed distantly by the outside of the mower.

George

[steve]

HI Great topic would it be possilbe to get pictures of the guards mentioned on the mower. I have been purchasing thru local old order mennonites seems different # each time.They claim they are all for # 9 . I was told “__” stamp with raised #700 on it is the way to go. any imfo
thanks Steve

[Donn Hewes]

George, You answer your own question, None of the regular guards were made to handle hay already laying down. It only takes a second for a guard to pick up a little mowed hay on its tip and it spreads across the next guard to the next. It is just steering and grass boards. But think about the heavy hay flopping in all directions, and the wind blowing the hay back over your tracks, now try to steer while keeping the momentum for the heavy cutting! Ops plugged again. I find I can mow without a grass board in many situations, (clipping pastures for example, or second cutting), but it is so much easier to teach some one to mow with good stub guards and grass boards in place. I will try to set up a few pictures of guards. I think the #700 was one universal guard that actually didn’t fit our mowers well, but I can double check that as I have one out side. Donn

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