Guards for No. 9 Mower

[Rod]

Yes a 5′ bar length. Thanks.

[Rivendell Farm]

Mike,
Thanks for the info. I’m only a little over an hour’s drive east of D. A. Hochstetler, I’ll have to stop in sometime. Bob

[Ronnie Tucker]

those double guards that are being used what is the number for the best one to use to overhaul a bar on a nine. there is a210 a 215 a 218 all look like they would be ok.which one works best . ronnie tucker

[Rivendell Farm]

This is my first attempt to attach a picture to a post. Hope it works.
I ordered the spring loaded hold downs on line and have installed them on the cutterbar. They were too wide to fit between the single point guards, so I ground a little off each side so they’d fit. I suppose they fit better between the narrower, double guards. They do a nice job of holding the knife sections tight against the ledger plates. I’m looking forward to trying it out soon.
This may be a dumb question, as I may be overlooking something obvious, but what is the purpose of the small, loose fitting piece of metal that extends through the top of the hold down spring? Bob

[Donn Hewes]

Hi Bob, Those hold downs look interesting. How tight is the knife? How long is the bar? A lot of times folks turn the cone nut up side down on the guards were there is no hold down, kind of fits in the round hole a little. Those 700 guards are usually difficult to make knives fit to as they were made to fit on more than one mower and their knife height is a tiny bit different than the other guards.

If I wasn’t so busy catching up with all the other spring work I could go out and start clipping pastures already. Things are growing fast now.

Ronnie, I don’t know which of the double guards is best. All the ones they have sent me are the 218. I was looking at a 215 the other day that maintains a flat surface at the back of the knife from one guard to the next. Most of the others are slightly raised just were a ledger plate would be. The flat surface might be good as sometimes a slightly low knife section will hit back of the guard until it wears a little.

[Rod]

I bought some of those guards for the no. 9 I am working on and had the same question about the piece. The bar is not done yet on the one I am working on but I have the guards here.

[Rivendell Farm]

Hi Donn, It’s a six foot bar. The knife is tighter than usual, but there is still paint on all the ledger plates. I think it’ll run easier after it mows a couple rounds. Normally I can pull the knife out by hand. Not so right now. Incidentally, what happens if the bar has too much lead? This one has about 3 inches, twice that recommended. Bob

[near horse]

Donn,

Would Dan also carry “stub guards” and the inner and outer shoe ledger plates that never seem to get replaced? Also, do the double tined stub guards (part # BU250 from Tisco) work on these mowers?

http://www.tractorpartmart.com/us/guard-p3499.html

[Donn Hewes]

Dan has all the inner and outer plates you need. Just as an example I called Dan a few days ago to ask him how to remove a wrist pin from a flywheel (the bolt the pitman slides on to). He called me back and explained it, simple. Wish I had ordered some before now I will wait for one.

I tried those twin stub guards once and they wouldn’t fit tight to the knife and were too short, didn’t cut a thing. The stub guard with the up turned knife section is the one you want. Dan has them. I prefer a different bolt with those than the rest of the guards. It is a carriage bolt.

Hi Bob, I wouldn’t run a knife that tight, plus I doubt it will loosen up with the springs on it. People do and it will mow, but it is harder on horses and parts I think. You should be able to spin the knife with one hand. 3″ of lead I don’t think it will be a problem, but I guess it could. Unusual to have too much lead. Did you measure after pulling back on the outer end?

[Y 4 Ranch]

That loose thing in the top is for locking up the spring, taking pressure off the knife, it’s real easy just monkey with it a little and it’ll lock it up. If the spring is too tight you can space it up with washers, I can spin my mower by hand (without washers), there’s a little resistance, but the poly bushings wear down as you cut also so it gives a little more room.
Mike

[Donn Hewes]

Hi Mike, It sounded like I didn’t believe you but I do. If we spend some time getting things set right these machines work pretty good. I will have to try those hold downs one of these days.

[Rivendell Farm]

Donn,
My friendly Amish welding shop some time ago bent the big bar that adjusts lead to make up for too much slop in everything. I did pull back on the bar and have adjusted it to reduce the lead a little. I notice the steel plate on the bearing end of the pitman gets rather hot from flexing as the mower runs. I thought perhaps because the bar is not quite in line. This mower hasn’t been quite the same since the bar hit a gate post at a high rate of speed.

Mike, I thought of the use for that loose piece of metal in the hold down after I made the post.

[Jay]

That much flex in the plate the pitman bearing is on concerns me – if it’s getting warm, seems as though it’s fatiguing and will break just when you don’t need it to. I would try to reduce the lead back closer to what is recomended. Also if the knife is able to run smoothly/easily I think that will help relieve some of the stress. Jay

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