IHC #9 mower

[jac]

George I think your right.. obvious really:o…
John

[mitchmaine]

russell, i think the pinion gear is what actually unscrews. backward threads in the same direction as the pitman turns while mowing so it doesn’t come apart while working. jam something soft like a block or wedge of wood into the bull gear and turn the flywheel on the other end of the pitman clockwise (i think) to break the threads and just back off that gear and pull your shaft. the bearing shouldn’t be attached, but i remember it’s not fun getting it out of it’s housing. there might be some shims behind the pinion gear to look for too. good luck. are there lots of no. 9 mowers over there? parts and so on. carry on.

[jrward]

The pitman shaft is right hand or standard thread meaning you spin the flywheel counter-clockwise to remove it. All full sized horse equipment is designed for 31 inch tongue height except John Deere which I believe is 32. The reason is the same as the standard 3-point hitches on modern equipment. If you make everything standard it’s more likely the people buying your equipment will set it up right and be satisfied with the results.

[Russel]

I havent seen any other #9s but I havent been looking that long. No one farms with horses here much. All the equipment is lying on farms from the days when everyone used to use oxen. Most of the stuff is in very bad shape. My #9 had its gearbox cover removed for the last 30 years and was left outside in the elements! The cutter bar is missing as well and so is the the large spring and the lever that determines the angle of the cutter bar. 2 furrow walk behind plows are very common. Almost every farm in my district has two or three lying in the rubbish dump…

[Russel]

When you say that you must spin the flywheel counter clockwise, is that looking at the flywheel from the front of the mower?

[jrward]

@Russel 19209 wrote:

When you say that you must spin the flywheel counter clockwise, is that looking at the flywheel from the front of the mower?

Yes. standing with the flywheel near you and the gearbox away you will take the top of the flywheel towards the sickle to loosen it and the pitman shaft will thread out of the little gear on the end. If it sticks in the bearing you can tap the back of the flywheel gently with a hammer and it should come loose and slide right out. Before you pull it out you can wiggle the flywheel to see if there is any play in the pitman bushing. If you can see/feel much play at all you might want to have your local machine shop build you a new bushing. Spin the ball bearing on the other end and unless it is pretty rough you should be able to just reuse it. Also, be careful taking out the old seal because the part no. on the original seals still cross to new numbers and it saves your parts man some digging.

[Russel]

The small pinion gear is giving me a lot of trouble. Ive been trying for an hour to get it to start moving on the threads! I even put some super lubricant on the threads. Is there a way of creating more leverage at the flywheel? or an other way of making it easier to turn the flywheel?

[Does’ Leap]

I put a pipe wrench inside the opening on the flywheel and put a 10′ lever bar over the pipe wrench. With a helper locking the pinion, give her a good turn with the lever. If that doesn’t work, I have had someone lock the flywheel and have hit the pinion with a chisel, rotating the teeth you hit so you don’t break anything. I broke the flywheel once doing this last year (there is thread out on this site somewhere) and ordered a new one from BW McNair (717) 543-5136. They have every part you need for that mower.

George

[mitchmaine]

hey russel, it has been a while since i’ve done this job, but i THINK that from the front looking back to the mower you spin the flywheel clockwise. i think this because i remember trigging the bevel and pinion gear from the top and that means spinning the flywheel to the right over the top, doesn’t it? in gear, the mower spins the pit. shaft counter clockwise so to tighten the shaft in the pinion you’d have to spin it the same way, or opposite (clockwise) to loosen it. thats what i remember, but i’ve made many mistakes before this. best of luck, no oil for thirty years??? that’ll be a tough one..

mitch

[Does’ Leap]

Russel:

Here’s the thread from last year: http://www.draftanimalpower.com/showthread.php?t=1551

I was facing the same job and had a tough time.

Here’s one salient post from that thread:

“So George the threads on the pinion gear are standard threads not left hand. With a piece of bent rod or whatever under the pinion(ground side of the pinion and ring) and standing looking straight on to the mower,from say the far end of the pole, the fly wheel should turn counterclockwise to loosen the pinion. It shouldn’t take to much force has been my experience. Use a short handle pipe wrench and don;t put an extension on it.”

George

[Russel]

Thanks for the help everyone! I finally got it off by getting Mike(one of our workers) to hold the flywheel while I tapped in the pinion gear with a hammer and chisel. I just wanted to know from everyone how the spring in the gearbox used for disengaging the gears is removed because its attached to the bearing. Or even how to remove that entire gearshaft that holds the large pinion gear and the spring?

Thanks a lot
Russel

[Russel]

Also does anyone have any photos of the lever next the right hand wheel and how the large spring attaches to the axle. Mine doesnt have these so Im going to scrounge some from some other makes…

[ngcmcn]

mitch, that pole height i believe is for the original pole for the 9 which i find to be short, with a D-ring my horses bang their knees on the neck yoke. I do know that there is a sweet spot for the pole height at the neck yoke end. Too low and you have no lift to clear a rock or fawn and they seem to drag quite a bit the inner and outer shoes and bar angle all seem to be less effective, i ended up constructing a closer fitting neck yoke which has helped my rigging over all.
No hay for me this year……..feels very strange but i’ll be in the woods soon.

Neal

[mitchmaine]

hey neal, a friend pointed out that teams used to be much smaller than our ton horses of today and it makes sense. all the gear i used to pull out of old barns and the collars were always 21 – 22 inch. and the pole length would also fit that model. our solution was to extend the pole with a stub pole clamped (bolted) underneath the existing one killing two birds. i can add a foot of pole and increase the height as well. i too had the same results with the d-ring. i snapped a pole strap with quarters into my d – ring. lifting the pole seems to be critical. i’ve heard keeping oil to the pitman bearing, clearing obstructions like you say. balancing the pole weight with your weight on the seat. all make sense.
good luck in the woods, and good to hear from you. best wishes

mitch

[near horse]

@Russel 19231 wrote:

Thanks for the help everyone! I finally got it off by getting Mike(one of our workers) to hold the flywheel while I tapped in the pinion gear with a hammer and chisel. I just wanted to know from everyone how the spring in the gearbox used for disengaging the gears is removed because its attached to the bearing. Or even how to remove that entire gearshaft that holds the large pinion gear and the spring?

Thanks a lot
Russel

I thought the spring was “free” on the shaft but I’m just going from memory.

I also thought there was a “nut” on the end of that gearshaft (do they call that the countershaft?) – the end towards your seat. Thread that off and the shaft pulled out the other end. The nut also held some ball bearings – sort of a bearing cup and nut all-in -one. I have to admit that this was on a #6 mower but some things might be the same. I’ll try and get a couple of pictures of the #9 uploaded tomorrow.

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