Leather Questions

[Does’ Leap]

I need to make a couple of adjustments to my harnesses and have a couple of questions for those of you who work leather. I have no tools for working leather and in the past have drilled extra holes when I needed them. Anything wrong with this or do I need to buy and punch? Also, what is the best way to cut leather using everyday tools?

Thanks.

George

[OldKat]

@Does’ Leap 11482 wrote:

I need to make a couple of adjustments to my harnesses and have a couple of questions for those of you who work leather. I have no tools for working leather and in the past have drilled extra holes when I needed them. Anything wrong with this or do I need to buy and punch? Also, what is the best way to cut leather using everyday tools?

Thanks.

George

George,

I’ve used the drill thing before too, it works. I’ve also used a large nail heated red hot and burned a hole where I wanted it. Works well on leather or nylon, but stinks like heck.

However, for about $30.00 (US) or so I recently purchased a a fairly nice stainless steel leather punch at a local saddle shop. The saddle repair person (actually a very petite lady) told me that for her purposes the one I bought would not hold up, but she is punching probably dozens of holes every day. I have had it about 6 or 7 months and haven’t punched a dozen holes total so it works for me. After using it I wonder why I never owned one before. I would suggest buying one if the finances aren’t too tight.

I just use a heavy utility knife for cutting leather, but if I were to buy more leather tools the next thing would be a good knife … easier to control than the utility knife.

Hope this helps.

[TBigLug]

Definitely get a punch. You can find them in misc. piles at auctions or online or at TSC for pretty cheap. They’ll hold up for years if you’re just doing an extra hole or two in your harness a couple times a year. We’ve had the same old punch for 40 years or so and never had a problem.

[Carl Russell]

If you buy a plier style punch, make sure it is heavily built, and the punches are sharp, and cannot come out. I have had a few over the years that bend out of shape, or the punches come out. I have found them to be frustrating, and not that effective.

I have found that a driven punch works best. It is like a center punch with a hole in it. Used on a wooden bench, they can be sharpened, and cut a really good hole.

For emergencies I use the punch on my Leatherman. It is a flat awl with a scoop shaped sharp edge. By pushing and spinning I have found I can cut a nice hole in leather or plastic.

I have also used copper rivets for all sorts of repairs, although they tend to eventually break the leather. I have found and used a stitching awl (like a sailor’s awl) using heavy waxed thread is the best repair. You will need to find a way to taper the end that are being spliced. I use a sharp wood chisel, although they do make curved leather cutting chisels.

I have used metal shears to cut straps to length. This tends to make a cleaner and more exact cut than a knife. I have also used the wood chisel on a bench.

There will be a couple of leatherworkers exhibiting at NEAPFD.

Carl

[Mark Cowdrey]

A sharp low angle block plane is a nice, controlled way to taper leather for stitching a splice together. I punch my stitch holes w/ a sharp ice pick before using a heavy needle W/ waxed thread. A sailor’s palm helps to push the needle through the leather or use needle nose pliers. The pliers are rough on the needle however.

Mark

[grey]

One good reason to use a round hole punch rather than drilling the hole, is that a smooth edged hole is less likely to develop a tear than a rough-edged hole made by a drill bit.

The rotary hole punch with the pliers type handle often doesn’t do the job on heavy harness leather, unless you have huge strong hands… but if you have the hand strength to work one, this tool has the advantage of being useable while the harness is still in place on the animal. Just for the love of Mike, don’t get the red rubber-coated handle $10 rotary hole punch. You’ll just get frustrated! Get the steel handled $30 unit.

The set of individual punches that I use, requires that I remove the tack from the animal. Also, more parts to carry around with you in your repair kit. The rotary tool travels better.

Remember to use a wedge of nylon, rubber or leather backing behind your strap when you are using the strike punches. Your tool will stay sharper and last longer. If you don’t use a backing, you’ll dull or chip your punches. Using a mallet rather than a hammer is a good idea too. A hammer will mushroom the head of your strike punches in a surprisingly short amount of time.

[Does’ Leap]

Thanks for the replies. Anyone have a particular brand of punch they can recommend?

George

[grey]

In my travel repair kit that I throw into the wagon toolbox or take on the wagon train, I carry the punch kit that has one handle with interchangeable tips. Little fiddly bits that you can lose, but packs down small. Shown here:
http://eleathersupply.com/punches.shtml and scroll down or search for “Mini Punch Set Stock #300300” and “Maxi Punch Set Stock #300400”. I have both sets but the “maxi” set has the sizes you’d want for harnesses. The points for the mini set fit the mini handle, and the points for the maxi set require the maxi handle. They aren’t interchangeable. I made a little tube out of copper pipe, capped one end and put a cork in the other end. I store my points in the tube so they don’t get lost. I think the punch kit I got was made by Tandy. Pretty sure I didn’t pay as much as they are asking on the website. They sell them at Tandy Leather, of course, and also at some craft stores that have a leathercraft department. I’ve seen them at some tack shops too.

At home, on my work bench, I have a set of individual punches. Same page as above, but look for “Round Hole Drive Punches”.

The rotary punches to stay away from are the “Deluxe Rotary Punch Stock #324000” with the red handles – the one commonly sold in tack shops – (I actually bent one trying to punch a hole in a quarter strap) and the “Economy Rotary Punch” just above it. If you were punching holes in lightweight garment leather, I’m sure they’d do okay. But good harness leather… you might as well gnaw your way through it with your own teeth.

[grey]

For the individual punches, I just get whatever’s cheap. Honestly, my first set was about $10 from Harbor Freight. Nice big set of about a dozen different sized punches. They have held up well. I use them pretty often. I have only ever felt the need to sharpen one of them, once – it is the size that is needed for almost all the conway buckles on my harness. I used a long thin round ceramic file – the same one I use when sharpening my hoof knives.

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