DAPNET Forums Archive › Forums › Equipment Category › Equipment › MD #9 Woes
- This topic has 10 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 15 years, 7 months ago by near horse.
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- April 17, 2009 at 9:58 am #40471Does’ LeapParticipant
I have a leak coming out the drive-shaft which attaches to the pitman. L Miller recommends pulling out the drive-shaft and changing the seal(s). His method is to jam the gears and then put a pipe wrench into one of the openings of the flywheel (which attaches to the pitman) and cranking away. Well, I put some leverage to it and broke part of the flywheel in 3 pieces (would have rather have dealt with the leak).
Seems I have a couple of options and would appreciate some input:
- somehow get the drive-shaft out (any suggestions here would be most appreciated), replace the flywheel and the seals.
- Weld the pieces of the flywheel together and live with the leak
.
Option number one is preferable, but I am concerned about doing damage to the gears and have no idea how to get the shaft out.
Thanks.
George
April 17, 2009 at 11:13 am #51872AndreParticipantIf you have Millers mower book you might be trying to turn the flywheel the wrong way. It’s a typo in the book. He put a correction in SFJ a short time after the book was printed.
April 17, 2009 at 11:22 am #51868goodcompanionParticipantI think you will probably have to replace your flywheel in any event since it is cast iron, very difficult to weld, and would probably be imbalanced and vibrate even if you succeeded.
April 17, 2009 at 11:25 am #51867RodParticipantHi George
Can you weld up a tool made from a steel bar with a piece of pipe at right angles at one end that will slide over the pitman drive shaft? Then weld a piece of steel on the side that will fit into the opening in the flywheel. Put some penetrating oil on the threads at the gear end and see if you can start the thread. Be careful because if the tool you make has a longer length than the pipe wrench you can apply more leverage and as you said you don’t need to break them also.
April 17, 2009 at 12:20 pm #51873Does’ LeapParticipantThanks for the responses. Andre, if you are looking at the flywheel facing toward the seat, which way do you turn the flywheel? Rod, once I know which way to turn for sure, I will try that.
Thanks.
April 17, 2009 at 4:15 pm #51875near horseParticipantMy sympathy George – that is the worst when you’re trying to fix a “minor” issue like a leak and end up with a major one – like a broken part.
When I took my #6 apart I think I followed Lynn’s instructions but the gear on the shaft came loose pretty easy. The flywheel does not – in fact, I just slid the whole shaft out the front side w/ fly wheel attached. Again, I don’t recall exactly but I’m sure I applied liberal amounts of that “Blasters” penetrating oil – plus have you already pulled the other gears out of the case?
No simple sure fire solutions – except some of the basic for frozen threads- “lubricate” also “heat and cool” a few times and keep working the shaft back and forth (loosen/tighten).
Good luck – might also try taking some used oil (if you’ve got some around and fill the gear case up above the “flywheel gear” so it’s submerged and let it sit a day or so to soak.
Sorry I couldn’t be of more help.
Geoff
April 18, 2009 at 12:42 am #51870ngcmcnParticipantgeorge, bummer dude, hate when things like that happen.
Every time i pull one apart i go and look at a shaft and flywheel i have sitting on the bench and remind myself which way that pinion gear unscrews.I have a nine still apart from when i met my wife five years ago. The Miller book to me is a bit confusing because he doesn’t reference where he’s looking from to go CC,or C. there was a correction to that page. So George the threads on the pinion gear are standard threads not left hand. With a piece of bent rod or whatever under the pinion(ground side of the pinion and ring) and standing looking straight on to the mower,from say the far end of the pole, the fly wheel should turn counterclockwise to loosen the pinion. It shouldn’t take to much force has been my experience. Use a short handle pipe wrench and don;t put an extension on it. At this point i would sacrifice the flywheel and do what ever to loosen the pinion. drill a 1/2 hole in it and put a bolt or something to get a purchase on it. You will have to replace the flywheel, a new shaft is twenty bucks, the oil seal are five dollars, bushing ten, wristpin and bushing ten or fifteen. My most recent technique for reomving the shaft bushing is to just take a narrow cold chisel and bend over the end in the spent bushing sveral times until i can just drive it through the shaft housing(3/4 brass punch or drift, whatever) and out into the gear box. With about a 18inch piece of broom handle the shaft bearing(gear box end) will come out easily, do this before you destroy the bushing. Norm at macknairs in PA is real good to deal with and reasonably priced. He’ll have a flywheel if he doesn’t, i’ve got one.Goodluck, Let me know if ya need more help.
Neal McNaughten
Gwyneth Harris
Unity, Me.April 18, 2009 at 10:53 am #51874Does’ LeapParticipantNeal:
Thanks for the response. I will try to get it off the correct way this time! I have ordered seals and a new flywheel from Macnair’s. Am I wrong to assume I can use the wrist pin and bushing from my current mower or should I just replace them? Macnairs told me I had to hire someone with a press to get off my old flywheel.
George
April 18, 2009 at 5:02 pm #51871ngcmcnParticipantGeorge,
Once you get the shaft and flywheel off, take it to a machinist or tractor shop or a good mecanic and have them press off the shaft. If the shaft doesn’t have huge wear marks in it where it rides in the bushing, reuse it. It would have to be pretty worn out, but it happens. I’d put a new shaft bushing in at least since you’ve got it down this far, it will help tighten things up. Chuck the old wrist pin and pitman bushing, they’re cheap and whoever pulls the shaft out of the flywheel for you can do all that. the wrist pin is easy to change; grind or drill off the peen on the back side and drive it out on an anvil or something. Lynn Miller hacksaws a ways through the pin and busts it off with a hammer then drives out the stub. the oil seals,there will be two newer ones that fit……..put them both in.I had a nine given to me a few years back that was pretty near worn out but still mowed quite well. presently its being fixed and when you get all of it back together right they can sing. Some of my mowers don’t sing, they more like grunt and shake. They need attention.
Goodluck
Neal mcNaughten
Gwyneth Harris
Unity, Me.April 18, 2009 at 10:31 pm #51869goodcompanionParticipant@ngcmcn 8142 wrote:
George,
Some of my mowers don’t sing, they more like grunt and shake. They need attention.I nominate the above for quote of the day.
April 20, 2009 at 4:24 am #51876near horseParticipantI just got a flyer from “Midwest Leather” in Garland, UT and they are now listing (no prices) rebuilt #9 mowers for sale. I can get you a PH # if anyone’s interested.
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