Moving Heavy Loads With Horses

[Carl Russell]

As a result of the horse pulling thread I thought I would start one talking about how I go about getting my horses, and oxen, to move heavy loads.

I will say up front that I have never been even reasonably successful at competitive pulling, so I am not speaking to the techniques of training for that sport. That being said, a few months after I bought my first horse, in 1986, I had a friend bring his skidder over to help me pull up a large pine tree that had not fallen where I thought I could not get it with my single horse. That was the last tree in over twenty years that I have not been able to move and put right where I wanted it to go, with animals only.

There is a big difference between moving a working load versus a load in the pulling ring. The load in the ring is extremely heavy, but the terrain is level, and typically the pull is for only a short distance, versus the working load needs to be reasonable because of the variable terrain, and the effort of the horses needs to be managed because the distance that the load is moved can be quite far.

I am currently working a team that I started last spring. Due to family, weather, and other work, I was only able to do some basic work with them last summer, like harrowing, dragging pastures, plowing, and some limited logging.

It wasn’t until the fall that I was able to start working them more regularly in the woods, and therefore starting to get them moving heavy loads. I generally go by the adage, go light and go often, even when the animals are in condition, because this helps them to become comfortable and confident with the act of moving weight over the rough terrain in the woods.

I do not strike my horses to encourage them to pull. I will use a “marshmallow” stick to touch them at the tail head, a brief irritation to reinforce my command to “get up”. I will sometime “Bark” at them to get their attention, but yelling and generally being loud only makes them nervous, and does nothing to improve their workability.

As they become more confident, starting the loads together, straining on inclines, I will increase the size of the loads. I generally think that 200-250 BF, or 1/2 cord, or 1800-2200 lbs is a good working load for a team, but depending on the lay of the land, and where the trees are, it may be smaller, or larger.

The real key to getting horses to move really heavy loads in the woods is that I never make them move them very far. To begin with, I may hitch them to a whole tree, pulling it onto a skid trail where I will cut it down to a size that I know they can easily take to the landing. That way they are challenged to move the weight, but not worked to death trying to get it all the way to the landing.

There are lots of techniques like a rolling hitch, or swinging a log to start, or equipment like sleds and carts that lessen the friction, but at some point the strength of the animals has to be a tool that I can call on. With this in mind, I am constantly looking for those opportunities to exceed the last effort, even when it is not needed. Obviously if they only get asked for that effort when it is absolutely required then they will never be ready, and that is a downward spiral of experience.

Often I will fluctuate the size of the hitches, like small and easy to start, moving onto a few big ones, then a few easier, with a really big effort, followed by a couple of light ones to cool down. It really comes down to conditioned strength, and conditioned confidence. If they think I’m going to pin them down with ever hitch, and then drive them into the ground, they will stop pulling for me. But if they get used to being able to move the load, and confident that I will not abuse their effort, they will give all they got when I ask for it.

As I said I started last fall working on firewood, and about 8 weeks ago the weather hit a pretty good stretch so I have been continuing to work this team several days a week, exclusively in the woods. We have been cutting pine for the last 2-3 weeks, in 3 1/2 feet of snow. Because the snow is so deep we have to make main skid trails, and fell everything pretty much so we can get a hold of it from there, because it is too much work to cut saplings and deadfall, and clean up brush to get to each log, or to every stump.

I do use a 15 foot chain that I keep on my cart so we can reach out a little farther, and after we pull a few out of one area, we can stretch the skid trail a little farther, but in a lot of cases I end up pulling these trees full length, by the butt or tip, to get them out of the deep snow, and onto the trail.

These pines are growing in a stand that I started crop tree release in 1980, so there are some pretty good beauties, 4-16’s 600-700 BF. Now you want to see a pair of horses pull their guts out. All with the tension of the lines, and the slightest squeak from my lips. The footing is poor, and these pieces of timber have a mind of their own, so even though I know this is nowhere near the weight of a winning load at a pull, non-the-less it’s pretty impressive. We will lay down saplings across the fall of the tree to give rails so the tree skids easier, also.

When the tree is out at least far enough so we can reach the second half, we cut it in two, and take half to the landing which is about 1000 feet distant. It is mostly down hill the first half, and they can handle the 300 board feet of so pretty easy, except for the mud hole, which I usually rest them before. I don’t rest them for long, but just so I can see that they are breathing easy, and are relaxed, and waiting for me. When I pick up the tension I say ready, and they wait for me to squeak.

The second 500 feet is all uphill, so I have to manage their effort a little differently. I stop them at the bottom, just a few breaths and relaxation, then we head up the slope. I will watch them, how well they work together, how their footing is, and watch their heads to see their attitude. When I see them just starting to tire, I will stop them, regardless of where I am on the hill, with the exception of the second mud hole.

I always stop my horses while pulling uphill, because they need to know I am not going to drive them until they can’t go anymore, and because if they can’t start it, they can’t pull it, so they should be able to start a good working load pretty much anywhere. Also starting a load on a hill is another good test for their stoutness. Sometimes with really big hitches I will only ask twenty feet out of them before I give them a rest. This goes for anytime I have a really big effort from them, recognize the slightest tries, and never take more than you need.

Anyway they can get pretty worked up sometimes from moving a big load, but they still listen, and drive accordingly, and as soon as I unhitch, as they move ahead and feel no load, they walk nice and easy back to get the next hitch.

Carl

[Mark Cowdrey]

“…and watch their heads to see their attitude. When I see them just starting to tire,…”

Carl,
Can you elaborate any on what you are seeing/ looking for?
Good thread.

Thanks,

Mark

[CharlyBonifaz]

pretty much as I had anticipated; but it sure is a lot easier now, that you discribed how you do it 🙂
thanks for teaching! Big help!
elke

[Donn Hewes]

Carl, It is fun to read a detailed description. I spend more time getting animals ready fro noisy equipment – but it is fun to work with animal on the “simple” act of pulling. I have been teaming Connie with one of the mules and teaching her to start a load. Nothing like firewood to teach with. For anyone that is curious I think it is interesting to connect Carl’s words above with the three photos he posted in the “old school” thread I think it was. You can clearly see the teamster focus on the head of the animal. Donn

[Plowboy]

Funny how these animals we work with and spend time with will give you all they’ve got and more sometimes just for the asking if they like you. One horselogger I spent time with as a kid chirped to start his horses but when they were on a heavy load he always said,”Come Here” or just “Here”. I don’t think it was the significance of the command but a word to let them know they should buckle down seems like a good idea. This way they know the difference between starting a big log or just a forecart. His horses never started up “Hot” unless he said “Here” and then things really moved. We use the same command when we put ours on a heavy load and it seems to work well. He had a small Belgian/Quarter cross about 1300# teamed with his older sister of equal size. He used him the fall he turned three at alot of local log skids as well as for himself working in the woods and on his farm. When he put them on a load old Annie knew what to do and the youngster was learning fast. One day the Colt really started to shine he put all 1300# in the collar. As I met him on the skid trail with a big maple young Dick was coming along with Annie. You saw front feet then nose as he was pushing into the collar he was giving his all for his master on his own. JR gave him some slack on the lines and let him really get after that log. He coaxed the little horse along saying “Skid er’ Dick”. From that day on that team was known by everyone in our group as Skidder Dick and Annie. I skidded alot of wood with that handy little red team. Gotta love a good mellow horse that will really get in the collar when you need them to.

[Iron Rose]

Carl

I certainly agree with your methods of getting horses to pull on heavy loads. Making more trips not only gets them used to the load , but conditions them as well.
I just wanted to add a few things that I do. The first is I never put a young horse on a heavy load. I will break the horse out at 2 1/2 to 3 (sometimes they are 4or 5 when I get to them)and use them for farm work until they at least 5 sometimes 6 when they are full grown both physically and mentally.
When I do start pulling heavy loads I’ll hook them with a good slow horse that knows how to pull. In addition my eveners are designed were I can give the new horse a more leverage if necessary. As the new horse gets the idea I can give him more of his share of the load. Again as you said pull short distances ,but I will vary the length ,that way they don’t start to anticipate the stop before I ask ( ever watch a Pulling horse go just the distance and stop like he had a tape measure in his head).
Long days on variable sized loads give the new horse a chance to built his confidence. The worst thing you can do is stick a new horse , too many times and he will quit trying. If for some reason I stick him I’ll wait a few minutes before I unhook and drive away. Then find a smaller load and start over.
Good luck
Dan

[jen judkins]

This is a great thread! Thanks for the detail, Carl!

Looking back at my own ‘logging’ experience with Peanut, I realize that Ted set us up for light loads and only the last load was the least bit tricky (had to pull the tree around some tight spots to get onto the skid trail). On my own, I would have had no idea how to start.

I have gotten my brother interested in doing some logging this summer at my place. I think if I had someone to man the chainsaw, I could manage the skidding. We’ll see…

[Robert MoonShadow]

Jen ~ And you’ll be sure to supply us with plenty of action-photos of you & Peanuts’ learning experiences while logging… right? 🙂

[Carl Russell]

Good points Dan. Also Dennis, when I was young there was an old fellow who would say “Try that”!. I have never varied my command though. I find my animals can tell pretty quickly that they need to continue applying effort.

Also I never let my horses stop on their own. This is why I watch their effort, so that I can stop them while they are still trying hard, even if that means just a very short distance. Often the next time I ask on that load their effort is significantly more.

The attitude I watch for is primarily in the ears. They may be forward, or back at me, but when they start to wobble they’re flagging. It is a matter of practice though, knowing the terrain, so that I stop them while they still have good attitude, and well before they lose interest.

Like Dan (Iron Rose), I mix up those stopping and starting points, because I want to prevent any habitual behavior. I want them to be as present as possible, waiting for my guidance. I also find those times when I choose to push them, or more accurately encourage them to try harder, to go farther, by squeaking/chirping, and calling each horse by name if they need it. I say this because I often watch other teamsters who consistently try to ask for as much as they can get out of the horse, like climbing the whole incline at once, or trying to get as far as they can before the horse stops.

Another point is that if the horses do stop, they often try to reinforce the fact that they wanted them to go farther, by asking for more right away, instead of letting the animals recover. If the horses stop, I say whoa, and let them breath, and try to understand why they stopped, possibly branch stubs, or poor footing, or they’re off their game. Next time I ask them I get a good start, and possibly that’s all, or a short good skid, and I stop them first, even on the steepest inclines. Then work my way back up to maintaining the effort for what I consider to be more appropriate.

There are days when I get a late start, or the only trees are big, or I didn’t get a lot of sleep the night before, when I will ask for too much, or don’t take the time to get them loosened up, and I have to struggle to regain some humility. The fact is that I get more work done, taking the time, and working them light and often, mixing in some heavy pulls, then if all I try is heavy, heavy, heavy.

You are not just conditioning muscles, but Heart.

Carl

[Mark Cowdrey]

Carl,

Thanks for the point about the “wobbling ears”. That is an example of that extra 10% or so of knowledge that is so hard to come by & so valuable to have for the advanced beginner or journeyman or whatever I am.

Great thread, thanks all.

Mark

[ADKLogger]

Thanks Carl, this is right were I am at, and this helps me immensly. You know I have a great team of guys that I work with but we can all suffer from less than giving our best. Many times I have to remind my team that we are a team and this include Petey, and without him we would all be on the side of the mountain without a chainsaw.

-Frank

[Carl Russell]

Another key aspect to moving heavy loads is traction. I have seen my horses, pull like the dickens barefoot one day, but the next day shod with good caulks, become even more confident and relaxed. Slipping is very disconcerting to horses, and they will quickly learn that they can’t give as much barefoot, as they can with good gription. Of course they can slip when shod, but the extra confidence from good shoes can really make a difference on big timber, or when using sleds for logging.

Carl

[Robert MoonShadow]

Carl ~ “Gription”??? 😀
My grandpa’s reply to people saying “that’s not a real word.” was: “If it’s not a real word, it should be!”

[near horse]

Maybe I’m the only one that is still working through this issue but I still can’t tell when my team needs a break. I like the “ears” thing but some I’ve talked to have mentioned watching the horses barrel or breathing. I can’t tell if they’re breathing hard unless I stop to check. Is that a bad habit? I’m sure much of this comes from experience but any other pointers on what to look for so us rookies can feel more comfortable in what we are asking of our teams?

Some have expressed that there are probably more horses that are not worked hard enough than worked too hard. I also don’t want my team to end up a couple of couch potatoes

[near horse]

And Carl – do keep your horses shod year ’round? Even in dry season (I know dry is a relative term in the NE).

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