New Saw?

[Does’ Leap]

@Scott G 23588 wrote:

George,
The chain brake being engaged has no link to ease of starting. Husky 372s – cold start: full choke 1-3 pulls till it fires (+/- dies) then 1/2 choke and it will run, immediately diengage the remainder of the choke and you’re good to go. You shouldn’t need to choke it again until after lunch…

Scott, I have never tried 1/2 choke – will give it a go. Once it is warm, it starts up no problem (w/no choke). I am bringing back to the shop where I bought it to have them check the carb settings. Thanks.

George

[Tim Harrigan]

George, I was a little frustrated with my Husky when I got it. Like Scott said, mine will grunt on the second or third pull, then I put the choke fully off. Then is usually starts on the second pull. I am not shy about giving it a shot or two with the primer bulb even if it is warm. I am pretty happy with it now that I know what to expect.

Good suggestion, Scott, to kick off the chain brake after it starts. It cranks pretty good until you throttle down.

[Scott G]

@PhilG 23592 wrote:

My only complant with the 372 is that the little spring clips around the starter pully get gumed up a lot and don’t catch when you pull, happens alot in cold weather anyone else have this problem – and maybe a remedy ?

Phil, Yes… pull the starter cover & soak it with brake cleaner. After that it will work like a charm.

[Scott G]

@Does’ Leap 23593 wrote:

Scott, I have never tried 1/2 choke – will give it a go. Once it is warm, it starts up no problem (w/no choke). I am bringing back to the shop where I bought it to have them check the carb settings. Thanks.

George

1/2 choke after full choke & it kicks should work for you. Have the shop look at your low end fuel jet as well…

[Carl Russell]

Make sure to let the brake cleaner dry completely before starting the saw back up as I was told that when ingested by the saw it can cut the oil suspended in the fuel.

Also it should be a simple matter of hitting the trigger set once the saw has started. It can idle with the chain break on with very little problem. Since I have learned how to use a chain break ( we used to think the things were just put there for sissies) I only release the thing when I am going to cut…. no need. It isn’t good to leave it on while the saw is on high idle, but there is very little need to let a saw idle to warm up anyway. If the saw has been left out in the cold, it will warm up pretty fast even without letting it idle.

Carl

[near horse]

@Scott G 23588 wrote:

…..

Even though GOL, S-212, etc mandate having the chainbrake set when you fire off from a cold start, I don’t like it. You are putting full revs on a bound clutch that is cold. Too much of that and you can watch your clutch drum turn blue…

Hate to admit it but that’s been my experience as well and thus, I don’t like starting with the brake on either. Hell – I’m thought of as the “safety weirdo” cause I don’t drop start my saw like everyone else. Guess I’m not all that safe after all.

[Does’ Leap]

I try to be as safe as possible, thus the engaged chain brake when starting. I have to admit that I do drop start my saw. It seems so much faster and easier than leaning over and starting on the ground and relatively safe. Am I being needlessly reckless?

George

[Carl Russell]

Shouldn’t need to drop start,or lean over and start it on the ground.

Set the brake, hold saw by the front handle in left hand, clamp trigger guard handle between thighs, pull with even upward pull with right hand.

[Scott G]

@Carl Russell 23610 wrote:

Make sure to let the brake cleaner dry completely before starting the saw back up as I was told that when ingested by the saw it can cut the oil suspended in the fuel.

Also it should be a simple matter of hitting the trigger set once the saw has started. It can idle with the chain break on with very little problem. Since I have learned how to use a chain break ( we used to think the things were just put there for sissies) I only release the thing when I am going to cut…. no need. It isn’t good to leave it on while the saw is on high idle, but there is very little need to let a saw idle to warm up anyway. If the saw has been left out in the cold, it will warm up pretty fast even without letting it idle.

Carl

Brake or Carb cleaner can seize your powerhead if it is sucked up in the air intake. Soaking the flywheel shouldn’t cause a problem, it drys very quickly. Thinking about it though, the magneto is a little close to the pawl area and that might cause me a bit of concern. Nothing like catching your saw on fire first thing in the morning… 😮 Husky engagement pawls on the flywheel are notorious (at least with cutting our western conifers) for gumming up with sap and when cold, sticking.

Problem with the choke disengage from the throttle inter-lock is many folks are slow on the take; full throttle on a centrifugal clutch that is engaged when the brake band is set is a nasty thing..

My chain brake is engaged almost all of the time that the saw is sitting at a correct idle. The first saw I use to run extensively didn’t even have a hand guard, let alone chain brake (and chaps didn’t exist yet). When chain brakes first came out I hated them, now I consider them a necessity for a “safe” saw.

George, don’t drop start your saw. Its bad form and extremely unsafe. Decompression valves have helped immensely with the effort. Tuck the power head between your knees or start it on the ground…

Carl, your 575 still running well?

[near horse]

@Scott G 23657 wrote:

….Thinking about it though, the magneto is a little close to the pawl area and that might cause me a bit of concern. Nothing like catching your saw on fire first thing in the morning… :eek:…..

Scott – we called that a poor man’s hand warmer – too bad it only works once so it had better be damn cold outside!

[Carl Russell]

Scott G;23657 wrote:

….

Carl, your 575 still running well?

Damn good saw…. so far:D

Carl

[near horse]

Maybe you all have seen this place already but there’s a forum (another one!) that has discussions/debates of saw types and sizes. (including the 575 – pros/cons).

http://www.forestryforum.com/

Not saying everything there fits HD production systems but there are guys cutting serious amounts of wood. Thought I’d share.

[Mark Cowdrey]

Anyone have personal experience w this saw?
Thanks,
Mark

[Tim Harrigan]

Mark, not with the 359 but I have a 350 (they call it a 450 now) which is just a little smaller, I think 52 cc versus 59 cc for the 359. They are both made for 18-20 inch bars. I like it, there are times I wish it had a little more zip but it is easy to handle, starts nice and I have not had any trouble with it, yet. I look at the 572 and 575 xp’s like George and Carl and others have and I sure would like one, but it seems to me if you are only cutting 30-40 cords a year a 359 class saw is plenty of saw. I am sure you know how the price jumps from the 359 to 5xx xp class saws. Of course, if I every get a chance to use one of those big xp’s I might change my story. 😀

[Mark Cowdrey]

Tim,
Thanks for the feedback. I have a 351 that I have used for several years and like a lot. It seems the occasions when a bigger saw would be useful are increasing. However, I don’t put in the kind of time that would seem to justify the xp price range. Wondering if a compromise of weight ,power and price will be functional for me.
Mark

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