New Saw?

[Anonymous]

I would like to add to my earlier post. That started cutting profestionaly summers and weekends at 16. Worked with some top shelf men who made laying wood down look easy. Learned some from them but for the most part no one would share much of what they knew. Every man for himself the top cutters would get angry it any one sat and watched them. Now there is no one new to take thier place and the days of finding skilled men in our area is almost over.:( I’v tried other things but running a saw is a bigger part of me than I can leave behind. The forest is where I belong and will make my living in untill I can’t walk.

Thank you to all of you who are so willing to share your knowledge so freely.It is a great gift. Over the last month reading your posts have I learned years worth of practical information. The levle of pride and professionalism is very impressive.

Thanks again
Tristan

[Carl Russell]

Oh no, here goes this thread. Mitch and Tristan have nudged the memory bug in me. I started blocking wood for my dad when I was 11 years old with a Mac 35. It had points and was gear drive, 24 inch bar, and huge teeth that would shake me silly. I could count the teeth at full throttle, but you couldn’t bog it down. Had to push the oiler button with your thumb while cutting. It was all I could do to pick it up and move it to the next cut, then I’d set it on the ground and let the saw dot the work.

Then the old man bought a 10-10. It was light, centrifugal clutch, auto oiler. I cut a lot of wood with that saw. Started logging out of college, 1983, with a few others. We had Husky 162, Jonny 70E, and Stihl ?. One day all the saws were broken or pinched, and I pulled that old saw out of the tool box, fired her up, and cut that Husky out of the bind.

I was just showing my friend the Jonny 70E the other day. I still have it on a shelf in the shop. Hard saw to beat that one. I also have that Mac 35 in the cellar. Haven’t run either one for many years, but I can remember each like it was yesterday.

I remember telling my mother one day in my early twenties, “It’s good I can run a saw, but I don’t plan on making my living doing it”. What the frig was I thinking:eek:. Like Tristan said I grew up watching real men doing real work in the woods, and I have been fascinated by it ever since.

A good saw is like a surgeons knife. When you get the right heft, power, and sharpening, it makes the job. I still have a good 372 that I had to rebuild, and it’s going strong. Bought the Jonny 2071 because it was the red and black version of that saw.

Now I have a 575XP. Very pleased. When sharp it cuts as good or better that any saw I’ve had before. Blocking wood today I was thinking about that old Mac 35. 40 years ago is a long time, and boy have things changed. Those teeth on that chain are just a blur buried in a beech log, no bogging that saw either, but a completely different monster.

Carl

[john plowden]

I remember using an old mac – can’t remember what model – but you had to push the oiler – beast of a machine – my uncle filed it in the evenings – put out a pile of chips but hang on!! oh to be young and dumb again –

[john plowden]

BTW – good thread –

[Anonymous]

My dad had a Mac too. I don’t remember the modle just how heavy it was and the sound.

[Anonymous]

The first saw I got my hands on was my grandads old Clinton. It looked like a gocart engine with a bar on it. The carb was built into the rear handle. When you were going to cut down a tree you had to turn the rear handle and carb a quarter turn so the carb would be upright. The bar must have been 24 ins. and I’m not sure but I think it had a clutch on it. No need to say…it was one heavy sonofagun.

[Scott G]

Ben,
Yes my bad, 3120. For some dead-brain reason I always seem to stumble and call that saw a 3152. Used one quit a bit 11-15 years ago when I was cutting 5-6′ cottonwoods. Nasty job…

Lee,
Modifying just about any chain will make it cut more aggressive. By dropping the rakers the chisel is grabbing a hold of a lot more wood and by using square ground chisel vs round ground you are making it that much more aggressive. I am sure the chain stretches more than normal due to how grabby (hungry) the chain is. Besides chain wear & tear, vibration is probably an issue although you won’t feel it as much as the “old beasts” with the AV features the new saws have. Don’t see as many loggers with white knuckle disease as much any more. But friend, it comes down to whatever works well for each of us…

Tristan,
You are correct re: the length of bar, at least in the Western region where I’m from. I run a 28″ bar with 3/8″ (.375) x .050 full comp, round ground chisel on my 372s’ which are my everyday saws. I’ll run .404 x .063 full skip round ground chisel on bigger wood/bars when needed, which isn’t very often. The main reason I run a 28″ bar isn’t the size of wood, it’s strictly ergonomic reasons. I am able to stand upright while bucking, limbing, slashing which is much better for my woods-thrashed back. It is more than worth the effort of packing an extra 1.5-2# for that benefit. We run our slash much lower than they do back east (from what I saw in Maine) so spend much more time slicing & dicing to get stuff within 18-24″ of the ground.

John (aka Skip ;)),
I can’t understand why it cuts faster for you unless its from burying those small bars in wood. Less cutters equal less cutting as long as the chain speed is where it should be. You dropping your rakers a bit lower? Again, its what works for our individual situations. Peace…

You guys mentioning the old Mac, gawd those things must have been popular. The old beast I still have tucked away under my cabin, haven’t pulled it out in almost 20 years. It was the first saw I ever cut with (Dad’s). Complete beyond-heavy beast that rocked for bucking but sucked for felling. Ahhh, my hands go numb, my lungs hurt, and my thumb aches (manual oiler) just from the memories alone. Not to mention, weren’t the points & condenser fun!

I have way too many old saws laying around. Probably 10-12 (lost count) in different corners of the barn. I only regularly use 3 of them (2 -372s & 020T). Have my old Stihl 038 Mag that is a powerhorse, just needs a minor re-build. That one built my barn. Have a 46 Mag that a former employee seized that I’m going to drop a new jug & piston in and dedicate to my Alaska mill. I should just round up, inventory, and get rid of the rest of them but I just don’t seem to get around to it (or don’t want to). Kinda’ like old skis, just can’t bear to part with them…

Keep doing what works for you…

Regards,
The Rocky Mountain, Husky totin’, Long-Bar, Full-Comp guy 😀

[bburgess]

Scott,

Thanks for clearing that up about the 3120. I thought either you guys in the Rocky Mountains had access to exotic saws, or I really had missed something. It looks like a beast of a saw, but it would have to be at 120 cc’s. The only problem I’ve heard out of them is the clutch not holding up very well. I understand it’s the same clutch used in the 395. It looks like Husqvarna would have beefed it up a little for that much more power.

Keep up the good work,

Ben

[leehorselogger]

@Scott G 24886 wrote:

Ben,
Yes my bad, 3120. For some dead-brain reason I always seem to stumble and call that saw a 3152. Used one quit a bit 11-15 years ago when I was cutting 5-6′ cottonwoods. Nasty job…

Lee,
Modifying just about any chain will make it cut more aggressive. By dropping the rakers the chisel is grabbing a hold of a lot more wood and by using square ground chisel vs round ground you are making it that much more aggressive. I am sure the chain stretches more than normal due to how grabby (hungry) the chain is. Besides chain wear & tear, vibration is probably an issue although you won’t feel it as much as the “old beasts” with the AV features the new saws have. Don’t see as many loggers with white knuckle disease as much any more. But friend, it comes down to whatever works well for each of us…

Tristan,
You are correct re: the length of bar, at least in the Western region where I’m from. I run a 28″ bar with 3/8″ (.375) x .050 full comp, round ground chisel on my 372s’ which are my everyday saws. I’ll run .404 x .063 full skip round ground chisel on bigger wood/bars when needed, which isn’t very often. The main reason I run a 28″ bar isn’t the size of wood, it’s strictly ergonomic reasons. I am able to stand upright while bucking, limbing, slashing which is much better for my woods-thrashed back. It is more than worth the effort of packing an extra 1.5-2# for that benefit. We run our slash much lower than they do back east (from what I saw in Maine) so spend much more time slicing & dicing to get stuff within 18-24″ of the ground.

John (aka Skip ;)),
I can’t understand why it cuts faster for you unless its from burying those small bars in wood. Less cutters equal less cutting as long as the chain speed is where it should be. You dropping your rakers a bit lower? Again, its what works for our individual situations. Peace…

You guys mentioning the old Mac, gawd those things must have been popular. The old beast I still have tucked away under my cabin, haven’t pulled it out in almost 20 years. It was the first saw I ever cut with (Dad’s). Complete beyond-heavy beast that rocked for bucking but sucked for felling. Ahhh, my hands go numb, my lungs hurt, and my thumb aches (manual oiler) just from the memories alone. Not to mention, weren’t the points & condenser fun!

I have way too many old saws laying around. Probably 10-12 (lost count) in different corners of the barn. I only regularly use 3 of them (2 -372s & 020T). Have my old Stihl 038 Mag that is a powerhorse, just needs a minor re-build. That one built my barn. Have a 46 Mag that a former employee seized that I’m going to drop a new jug & piston in and dedicate to my Alaska mill. I should just round up, inventory, and get rid of the rest of them but I just don’t seem to get around to it (or don’t want to). Kinda’ like old skis, just can’t bear to part with them…

Keep doing what works for you…

Regards,
The Rocky Mountain, Husky totin’, Long-Bar, Full-Comp guy 😀

scott..pls dont’ take what I said as a criticism….i certaily didn’t mean it as such….as for vibratiom…really not an issue if I pay attention to my filing ….. after 40 som odd saws in the last 37 years…father bought me my first saw when I was thirteen….i can honestly say that I don’t know much about sawing….but the trees fall where and when I want them to….and never have had a major accident while sawing…which is how I like it,….as for my first saw….homelite c5 no muffler….studies are now showing that senior dementia is signigantly higher in hearing impaired folks…sure am glad I learned to run a saw without hearing protection!Ye Haw

[Scott G]

Lee,

I didn’t pick up on any criticism at all. The “constructive” criticism I was raised on ,and was given by (& readily taken from), the folks that guided me when I was young gave me a pretty thick hide…

Are you taking a break from roaming the Country and working some timber for awhile?

[leehorselogger]

@Scott G 24945 wrote:

Lee,

I didn’t pick up on any criticism at all. The “constructive” criticism I was raised on ,and was given by (& readily taken from), the folks that guided me when I was young gave me a pretty thick hide…

Are you taking a break from roaming the Country and working some timber for awhile?

am doing a precommercial thin….not my favorite thing….would be more fun if it wasn’t a firewood cut,with all of the brush needing to be chipped….and if the guy I am working for could pay me……Nice guy….sigh…am looking for timber….even pulp…..ifnot….back on the road.

[dominiquer60]

I read this entire thread last night while many of you were off gallivanting in Athol 🙂 I thought that I would add to it seeing as my questions are along similar lines and it would keep all of this great and related advice together.

I have been using a 455 Rancher for firewood, my biggest complaint is that it is too heavy for me. I am leaving it behind when I move, but will still need something for firewood, small work, etc.. So my options are to buy one or borrow one from my landlord. Knowing that I am rather green and that I can be hard on equipment I feel better about buying one and then I also have a saw to take with me when I move on.

I stopped at our local saw shop and he had a few to choose from, the 2 that I was drawn to were the 353 and the 346xp. They are both 11 pounds and about 50cc. My questions are what other smaller saws are there to consider? I am likely to tire with these models as easily as with the 455, less weight but less power too? Can I justify buying the professional grade? I will not be using it near as much as any of you, but I know if I take care of it right an xp should last me a long time and I like quality tools.

I welcome any advice on this matter,

[Tim Harrigan]

Erika, I was just thinking today when I was out in the woods that I wish I had bought the 376xp. On one hand it is probably more saw than I need based on the amount of wood I cut, but there are times when mine just does not have enough zip to suit me, and I think the xp’s would handle a little nicer and have the reliability that you would really appreciate. So if you don’t mind the extra cost, I say go for the xp.

As far as getting tired goes, if you are working with Will and Abe, just cut for a while and skid for a while. Cutting is strenuous work, more so than it looks to be. So just switch up when you get tired, and over time you will get in shape for that work and your technique will improve which will both make it easier. A top notch saw will help as well.

[Carl Russell]

@dominiquer60 30893 wrote:

…… I have been using a 455 Rancher for firewood, my biggest complaint is that it is too heavy for me. I am leaving it behind when I move, but will still need something for firewood, small work, etc.. So my options are to buy one or borrow one from my landlord. ….

There is a Jonsreds 2051 here that you can use. It is a very light and powerful saw. You really should go for a professional grade, especially when going down in size. One misconception about saws is that the weight is what makes you tire….. more often it is a chain that is not sharp, AND lacking power. The faster it cuts the less time you have to handle it.

The number one problem that you will need to address is starting. Some of the larger saws with compression release pull easier than the smaller saws. Also using a 16″ bar will make any saw easier to handle. I would say borrow one of my saws for a while before running out and buying something just for the sake of it.

Carl

[Anonymous]

The pro saws are a good choice. I have a jonsered 2156 with a 16 inch bar which is simalar to the saw Carls recomending its been used 3years full time along with my 372 .I’m very happy with it both for performance and allround cost. I think the 2151 would serve you very well.

Tristan

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