DAPNET Forums Archive › Forums › Sustainable Living and Land use › Sustainable Forestry › New Saw?
- This topic has 104 replies, 25 voices, and was last updated 12 years, 8 months ago by
Lanny Collins.
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- February 25, 2012 at 6:32 pm #63387
jac
ParticipantI got given a Husky 359 the other day.. engine runs great.. but the guy has threaded the clutch end of the crankshaft… is this saw worth my while repairing ? im pretty good at twisting spanners so could do the rebuild myself.. and if i did rebuild what size bar would you recommend with it … thanks in advance .. John
February 25, 2012 at 8:29 pm #63394PhilG
ParticipantHeck ya! have you priced new saws lately ? That should be a good running saw if the compression is good, i have a 357 that Ive had for 15 years , still runs great
February 25, 2012 at 9:09 pm #63378Tim Harrigan
Participant@jac 32794 wrote:
.. and if i did rebuild what size bar would you recommend with it …
John, seems like it would be a 18 to 22 inch bar. You can probably find specs for it on the web.
February 26, 2012 at 2:28 am #63410Lanny Collins
ParticipantI don’t have any experience with this brand/model saw but did find this review site. Apparently some of the year models back in 2007 were hard starting. Maybe they have gotten this fixed in the later model years. The site showed bar lengths from 13 – 24 inches. Like all reviews some hate it and some loved it. Here is the link:
February 26, 2012 at 8:23 am #63388ParticipantThanks for the replys guys… new crankshaft it is then an an 18″ bar mabey.. John
February 26, 2012 at 5:52 pm #63337Scott G
Participant359s had a problem around 2004-2005 with a very small, undetectable without a pressure check, pinhole in the rubber intake boot. This was due to a flaw in the mfg molding process. Very hard to find and caused much aggravation because they were a great saw that had suddenly become very hard to start. Yo uwouldn’t even start blowing bubbles on the pressure check until you got to the upper limit. They supposedly fixed the problem but to late on my end. I had bought that 359 for my 75 yo father after his Stihl 28 died so he could cut with me on various projects. I had to sell him to use the Husky (even though I bought it) and when it turned out to be a hard-starting SOB he cursed it. That saw was the genesis of more than one “brush fit”. Even after we fixed the boot issue and the saw ran like a champ my Dad had his jaw set. So…I traded the 359 back in and got him one of the new Stihl 280’s and haven’t heard a grumble since. Only noise in the woods is that of him merrily sawing away. That said, I still really like that size range of Husky saws. The 357 is definitely more HD than the 359 though. Just goes to show how deeply engrained peoples preferences are.
John, I’m a little confused when you said the clutch side of the crankshaft was threaded. The vast majority are with a L hand thread. Did you mean that it was cross threaded? If so, I’d try cleaning it up with a die first before putting a new crank in it. That is about as far as you can go in tearing the saw down. Pretty spendy if you’re not doing it yourself. For that saw, I’d suggest a 20″
bar.February 26, 2012 at 6:38 pm #63389ParticipantScott he had started to do a sort of repair and screwed it up , no thread left .. this is a 2002 saw and starts real easy and has that “thump” that tells you it has plenty compression so think i will take a gamble.. i like the idea of not bending all day to brash either so the longer bar appeals haha .. John
February 26, 2012 at 7:59 pm #63338ParticipantJohn, I’d hone the cylinder and drop in a new set of rings as well. Cheap, easy, and will prolong your saw’s life. You’ll need to replace both crankcase seals as well. Good luck!
February 27, 2012 at 1:09 am #63402Anonymous
InactiveI would recomend putting crank bearings for a 357 in your rebuild parts list. 357s are a pro saw and have better bearings. If you were closer I could give you lots of cranks for them. Can’t remember when the style of clamp on the boot changed but if it has a plastic clamp, changing the boot and clamp to the newer metal clamp is a good idea aswell. They are a good saw and I know lots of pros who use the 359. A few of them are running a 359/ 357 hybred with good results.
Tristan
February 27, 2012 at 7:20 am #63390ParticipantTristan i take it a 357 crank has a different stroke to the 359 ?? just that 357 cranks are easier to get for some reason …
February 27, 2012 at 11:32 am #63403InactiveThe cranks are the same stroke only differences are the bearings. I have lots of parts for them because when the industry was in better shape we had 3 men cutting full time using 357s. Our local saw shop has been mixing and matching top ends and bottoms from those two modles to make a hybred saw. Never used one my self. They say that they work good.
February 27, 2012 at 8:08 pm #63339ParticipantHey Tristan, absolutely on the bearings, thanks for catching that. it is like anything else mechanical, i.e. the clutch on your truck. The parts are cheap, getting there is not regardless if it is your time or money. Whats the benefit of the hybrid, Tristan? That’s the first time of heard of it.
February 27, 2012 at 10:16 pm #63404Anonymous
InactiveThey say that the hybrid has the low end power of a 359 but turns up almost as high as the 357. I’v never used one my self our local saw shop likes to tinker.
Tristan
February 28, 2012 at 5:46 pm #63391Participantok guys…. slightly confused here :confused: Can I use the 357 crank and bearings with the piston an barrel in the 359 ???
February 28, 2012 at 6:01 pm #63405Inactive@jac 32907 wrote:
ok guys…. slightly confused here :confused: Can I use the 357 crank and bearings with the piston an barrel in the 359 ???
Yes the cranks are the same in both saws. It’s just that the 357 has better bearings. Or this is what I’m told by our local Husky dealer.
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