Reconsidering the Snaffle

[Lizzy Koltai]

Hi,

What all are people using for bits? I have been using snaffles with my team– much under the impression that it would be softer on their mouths, and therefore the best learning tool for all three of us. I am starting to reconsider this- especially because I have a lot of trouble communicating speed with my more headstrong horse. When I give her pressure on the reigns without a whoa, she will stop, ignore it, or dip her head down and lean into the bit. I just read the Myler’s little booklet on bitting, and they’re description of a horse whose uncomfortable in a snaffle seemed to fit my mare pretty well.

I’m considering the various options of straight, mullen, liverpool, and myler bits. How do I sort through all the options and make a good guess? How do I assess what they need in terms of tongue thickness and pallet height? I’m at a point that I’m willing to spend the money on one set of good bits, but I won’t be able to afford a lot of trial and error.

Thanks,
Lizzy

[Carl Russell]

Any straight bit is what I would suggest. I switched from 6″ straight bar bit to a Liverpool a few years ago because I had horses that each required different bit pressure. I found that having the ability to set each horse to a different setting made a huge improvement.

I stopped using jointed bits years ago, because they pinch and can cause distraction… or at least that is what I found.

When I started, I had the impression from other teamsters that I had to “control” my horses, so I was looking for leverage, or pressure-makers like the jointed bits provide. Somewhere along there I was talking it over with one of my mentors, and they suggested a rubber bit for my old “hard-mouthed” mare…. A different horse than mentioned above…..

I was so completely amazed when I put that rubber bit in her mouth. She was so responsive…. she was always still a very forward horse, but from that point on our working relationship improved continuously. Finding the bit that provides the most subtlety helped me to convey to her a more consistent and clear guidance, because she could feel me changing pressure, where before the pain covered everything.

Eventually I shifted to a straight 6″ bit, which was a little better as the rubber bit had a little too much give, and I found that I wanted more clarity. I am still using the Liverpool as I tend to find that the way I mix and match horses, they often need a slightly different setting.

Good luck, Carl

[grey]

Like Carl, I like non-jointed mouthpieces. I have gotten the best results with them.

I still sometimes bring out a single-jointed or three-piece mouthpiece bit, particularly when I am working with a new horse and trying to reach a greater understanding with him. I always eventually go back to the solid mouthpiece, however. I have a few bits that have a solid mouthpiece with a bit of an arch shape – a mullen-mouth. Some horses like it better, perhaps because its shape allows more room for the tongue.

I have some snaffles with solid mouthpieces and some curb bits with solid mouthpieces. I use them both, but I do use the curb bits more often. I seldom opt to use the leverage on a curb bit, but instead hook straight on and use the bit like a snaffle. However, the leverage is there should I choose to adjust my lines and take advantage of it.

Unfortunately, bitting can be a trial-and-error thing. Your hands, your methods, the horses’ temperaments, the shape of their mouths… Really, we can only tell you what has worked for us. I don’t believe there is a “best bit” out there but my favorite is the military elbow bit with a straight mouth. I like this one better than the Liverpool because my fidgety horse can’t get ahold of the bit shanks when they are swept back like this, but it is essentially the same bit.

[dominiquer60]

Lizzy,

I don’t have time at them moment to add the the discussion, but I have a couple saddle horse Myler bits that you are welcome to borrow and try out, they should fit your Halfligers

My number is on my website,
http://abingtongrown.com/form/contact

Erika

[Donn Hewes]

Bits are tricky. Of course we can’t say exactly what the horse feels. I look for a quite mouth. many trainers look for chewing as a good sign that the animal is thinking, but at work a relaxed animal should have a comfortable relaxed mouth. Of course I have had mules with tongues flying every which way.

I have used many straight and a few mullen mouthed (curved) bits. Lots of liverpools, but not all. I use the leverage much as others have described. To help balance out different horses with different responses to the same pressure. I would prefer to train horses without the leverage if I can. When I add leverage to a trained horses I get an immediate response.

Are you dealing with horses that are young? or green? or are you just trying to improve the communication? The difference to me is a green or young horse is both up on the bit, but also not very responsive overall. A mature horse that is well trained can be a little more “forward” or “up on the bit” than other horses it is working with, but will be super responsive to lines or commands at the same time. With a young or green animal I treat them very differently than an animal that I feel is very responsive.

I case you are looking at bits, you can find a mullen mouthed Liverpool. Also I recently bought a couple of mullen mouth, eggbut snaffles for the young mules. I like those bits so far.

As with everything, lots of great work horses work with a jointed snaffle. For me it is a problem with how I perceive the bit. If I can’t rap my head around the pinching, then it isn’t going to work that well for me; regardless of what the horse actually feels. I have been working with two green Fiords and one of them is wearing a jointed snaffle. The horse is only doing “ok” and I keep meaning to change the bit. I want to put blinders on it too.

[Will Stephens]

Lots here already. A short anecdote… Our Morgan had a VERY fat tongue. He was a real challenge. Almost everyone with horses has a bunch of bits. We ended up using a Mikmar bit which is one I never would have bought but is the only thing we found that works. I have had good luck with a solid bar kimberwick also. Can be neutral like a snaffle but it has slots on the D-Ring that allow subtle changes in available pressure. The point is, borrow as many as you can to try before buying. They are even easier to borrow than collars and they can cost the same to buy.

[Lizzy Koltai]

Thanks for all the advice!

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