Shoeing working horses

[Robernson]

My neighbor is also the farrier and usually charges $150 to shoe something like a team of fjords,depending on how they behave. My donkey is only $40 to trim every few months,I feel sorry for you guys:p

~~R

[slanabhaileequine]

Will send you an email directly, Bill

[Does’ Leap]

@Jen Judkins 16743 wrote:

George, Easy Boot makes their whole line including the Epics up to size 4. I’ve got an order in with Renedage Boots (http://www.renegadehoofboots.com) for a custom pair of Ice boots for Reno, but I probably won’t see them till spring:rolleyes:. I had to build a cast of his foot to get these built, and I’m still not sure how much they will set me back.

Hey Jen, what’s the verdict on these boots?

George

[Gabe Ayers]

I added my two cents worth to this thread back when I only had a single draft, and I was paying a farrier to shoe him for field and logging work. I have had a team now for 2 years or so, and I have changed course on this matter. Now, I trim and shoe both myself. The big change for me was finding a skilled farrier who was willing to work alongside me and teach me as I flailed my way through the educational process. I am still no farrier, don’t get my wrong. I still call my farrier for help, but I can now shoe my two horses. And that is enough for me. It certainly is cheaper, and I have total control over when I do the work. I don’t mean to say that it was not worth paying as I was previously, but it is just a better situation to be able to do my own. I think it has changed my relationship with the team a bit, and I like the results. Sure, I don’t do a perfect job, but that is not what I need. I need function, not style. The shoes stay on, and when I do have a problem like a sheared off ice stud, I can removed the shoe, fix the stud, and reset the shoe at my own schedule. In terms of Amish vs English I too think that there are both great and awful farriers on both camps. If you find one that works well with you and your animals and you are willing and able to pay them, that’s great. But, I do take a great deal of satisfaction from having learned a new, useful, economical skill. I also shear my own sheep and I feel similarly about that endeavor. Being able to do it ourselves just makes us less dependent on someone outside the operation, which leaves more money in my pocket as well as the pleasure of furthering my relationship with my animals.

[Does’ Leap]

Brad, I am thinking seriously about shoeing my horses next winter. We have done our trimming for the past 3 years and I have a friend/farrier who is willing to help me get started shoeing. I like having my horses barefoot though. I have gotten along well logging and farming with my team in the past, but this winter has been tough with no shoes. I am planning on building a forge, collecting shoeing tools, and keeping my eyes out for an anvil.

George

[Mark Cowdrey]

George,
I predict if you shoe your horses for winter work w good caulks you will be tickled & wonder why you didn’t make it happen sooner. You & your horses will love it.
I do.
Mark

[Does’ Leap]

How frequent and severe are leg injuries from caulks? I have heard horses are more apt to caulk themselves in slash and brush. True? I swamp as little as possible and, within reason, have the horses walk over and through slash. Will this approach need to change?

George

[Mark Cowdrey]

George,
Check out this thread for several caulk options, inc. what I use;
http://www.draftanimalpower.com/showthread.php?829-Show-off-your-Horse-Shoes/page3&highlight=borium

I have not had any injury problems, knock wood.
Mark

[Does’ Leap]

Mark:

What are rim pads and when and why do you use them? I have heard of using pads for horses with dropped soles for extra protection/cushion. Are rim pads different?

George

[Anonymous]

@Does’ Leap 32782 wrote:

How frequent and severe are leg injuries from caulks? I have heard horses are more apt to caulk themselves in slash and brush. True? I swamp as little as possible and, within reason, have the horses walk over and through slash. Will this approach need to change?

George

George if and how often a horse is going to caulk its self depends alot on the person driving and the individual horse. There are many things that can be done to limit the risks aswell. Such as not using a sharp caulk on the inside caulk of a horse who might be at risk of steping on its self. ie bow legged, close stepping

A good horse will seldom if ever caulk its self.I put our horses in the brush and hard going daily.

Tristan

[Gabe Ayers]

George-
That sounds great. I have gotten away without a forge, and I use stock shoes which I shape a little on a makeshift anvil. I know I don’t get quite as good a fit as I would if they were hotshod, but I don’t really have the skill yet to do it. A little at a time…good luck!
-Brad

[Mark Cowdrey]

George-
Rim pads are made of something like “silicone rubber” (I’m sure there is really no such thing), a hollow bead about 3/8 to 1/2″ OD that conforms to the indie of the shoe. There is a flange of the same material that extends under the shoe, between shoe & hoof, to hold it in place. The flexing action of the bead as the foot is placed & lifted prevents snow balls from building up on the bottom of the hoof when the snow is sticky. following my farrier’s suggestion, I use them on the front only, the theory being that the more circular configuration of the front hoof makes it more susceptible to snow-balling. I’m not sure how that logic would hold up under rigorous testing, but anecdotally it works for me. What is key to me is that the entire sole is open.
Mark

[Lanny Collins]

For all of you who shoe your own horse. I found this website that has glue on shoes. They show a draft horse being done. If the foot is cleaned very well it looks like it would be a lot less labor intensive as compared to nail on shoes. It shows rim plates as well. I have no experience personally with this process but do know that the adhesives industry has got some incredibly strong glues. They show that these glue on’s are about twice as strong as nailed on shoes. About 8 weeks and nailed on shoes will start to come off.

[jac]

there is some strong glues out there for sure… but how do you get theses shoes off.. and for me ,8 weeks and the shoes are comming off anyway for a refit…if im on tar roads a lot they are off at 6 weeks… John

[Does’ Leap]

Lanny, I didn’t see the website in your post. Do you have an address?

George

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