sickle bar length

I have seen both 3 and 1/2′ and 4′ bars on McCormick 1 horse mowers. I have also seen a 5′ bar on a #7 made into a one horse mower. Jay

Once again, not a lot of direct experience in this; but lots of plans to build one as several friends want one. I personally think a converted #7 or #9 would make a great one horse mower. I would make the mower bar length based on the number of acres to be mowed, hills? type, size, and temperament of horse. I believe some big horses could handle a five foot bar, for short periods on small acreages. For bigger fields, for more hours of mowing I would shorten it to 4 or 4 1/2 feet. One of the big challenges with a long bar is not strictly the power required, but the side draft created. I see this clearly using a 7 foot bar and a team. The single horse in shafts would not experience this to the same extent.

I now own the single-horse mower that Ed had, has 4′ bar. It’s all original and users manual indicates 4′ bar length on all of these footlift models. Not too big a pull for my 16.2 belgian either, seems easier for them than tillage work just covering more ground. THIS MOWER IS FOR SALE, TUNED AND FIELD READY!

-Evan

In my experience, the biggest single cause of extra draft in a mower is little bits of slack or shuck in the drive train to the knife. Slop in the flywheel shaft, the flywheel bushing or bearing, slop in the knuckle connecting the pitman stick to the knife. Just a little bit doesn’t seem like much but if there is just a “little” more in another spot, 1+1 does not = 2, it equals 6 or 8 in terms of increased draft. The same applies to register being off “just a little”. It makes a huge difference. A mower running really right and smoothly is such a pleasure to use… IMHO Jay

Register is the same as timing. Making sure your knife and guards are lining up with each stroke. I couldn’t agree more with Jay about the little bits of slop adding to the draft. In repairing hard working Amish mowers it is really clear that those little bits of slop get in the best mower just from hard working conditions. When not addresses immediately they not only add draft but quickly also lead to a mower break down. This time of year, everyone wants pitman straps, bearings, plates, sticks and the knife head rivets have come loose from the knife. All these things started with a little slop in a hard working mower that kept working to finish the field.

I have only seen them at HPD and the like, but my impression is that the double acting knife is working great. Pulling easy and reducing plugging likely. Worth the extra expense? That depends on a few other factors. Your desire / ability to perfectly maintain the traditional mower. cash on hand, etc. One of the smart things I & J did was make that mower available in any set up. Horse drawn, PTO trailer, PTO with 3 point hitch, or small motorized. This makes the double action knife available to anyone with any team, or using a PTO cart (motorized or ground drive) or not; any size team.

I still like a well rebuilt #7 or #9 as they are much cheaper, and work great when set up well.