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Bivol,
We’ve always made sure that we casterate them about 3 weeks before we wean him. I also take he and his momma to the vet and leave him there. I pick them up them next day. Then he doesn’t associate me with the situation. My vet uses general anesthesia and masculators to reduce bleeding.
That way he still has his mommy. He’s getting anti-bodies from the milk and emotional support from her. I make sure that I have alot of contact with he and his mother during those next few weeks. Alot of stroking and gentleness during this time. No forcing. If he doesn’t want to come to close, I just keep on working with his momma. They aren’t offish for more than a few days. Most times they have to pout a little.CIWParticipantI have 2 very nice blankets, still in the plastic bags. Bought 6 years ago.
The best thing I have found is to take a shedding blade or curry comb and ruff the animals hair up so that the air can get to the hair and dry it. When I turn them out the first thing that they do is to take a good roll in the snow.
A blanket only serves to mat the hair down, eliminating the air that is drying the animals hair so that he can keep himself warm.
One other thing is if you walk them the last 15 of 20 minutes on the way home they cool down and dry out alot.
Equine blankets seem to mostly make people feel good.
I understand that by blanketing you are only trying to do right by your animals. I’ve found it to be a misguided effort. If you choose to do that more power to ya.CIWParticipantHave you tried pouring five gallon bucket of salt brine around the grounding rods? Doing this seems to maintain better conductivity between the rods and the earth as salt water is a better conductor than plain water and it will draw moisture to the imediate area around the rods.
Barring any other problems with your system this has helped me during dry times of the year.
Another common problem with grounding rods is the lug not being tight enough to promote good conductivity. Sometimes you have to really crank on it. This can be checked with an ohm meter.CIWParticipantChrist Yoder in Sugarcreek, Ohio sends them broken down and straped to the floor. I think his are made of white oak.
CIWParticipantSome folks are using Dietamacious Earth (DE) as a wormer. Its a natural refined subatance.
I understand that it so fine that the worm ingest it and it kills them causing an internal bleeding. Under a microscope it looks like tiny shards of glass.
Their claims are that it doesn’t effect the animal though.
It comes as a powder. Almost like talc. And sprinkled over a feed ration. Probably something like sweet feed would work best so it doesn’t end up in the bottom of the feed pan.
Don’t know the dosing instruction.
Some dairies are starting to use it to help maintain their natural or organic status.CIWParticipantMost have spoken of standing while hitched.
Letting them stand at the hitch rail for several hours a day will help grow patience. Even if they aren’t to be hitched. Bringing them up to the rail is good.
We also have had good luck hitching the team to a wagon with its back end chained to something secure like a telephone pole. Our hitch rail is welded into the rebar of a large concrete slab. They can pull till they’re blue and it won’t move. This works especially well when they are tired after working.
I usually try to be working somewhere close when I do this. Like working in the shop or cleaning out the barn. Something where I can be within voice range of them and don’t need to walk past them, as it disturbs them.
Putting on harness can be a que or signal to stand still. Its really amazing how the demeanor of our teams will change as we throw harness. The mules realize that when that harness goes on, they may have to work at any time and become very conservative with their energy.CIWParticipantHave you ever used a buck back strap on him?
Doing so will make him pull the load with his nose if he’s charging through the bit. Using one will even him up with his mate, while letting you continue to build a lite, responsive mouth. This will give him time to grow, without causing bigger problems down the road.
Many times, greater bit power is only temprary at best. Its kind of like ridding the brakes as you drive down the road. Eventually you will wear the brakes out.CIWParticipantMules in general have, throughout history, been prized for many of their attributes.
Like anything else, there will be preference and fad in the form of body style, color and breed. I’m sure some others as well.
Like breeds like.
The last I knew, color didn’t have anything much to do with an animals workability and work ethic.
I have, and have had many different mules, draft horses, and jackstock over the years. I am cautious about showing singular allegence to any one breed. The proof is in the pudding. If a certain mare and jack combination produces good mules than by all means continue.
I had 2 span of mules all out of the same mating cross. They were really good diligent animals to work with. A pleasure to be around. When the fifth one came along I sold it. Now I had 4 animals that I thought were the salt of the earth. This man, for what ever reason, just couldn’t get along with this mule, so I swapped her back for one of his sisters. After a few weeks she settled in and it was as though there was no change.
What works for one may not work for another. It doesn’t make one wrong or better than the other.
I think that you may be limiting yourself if you are looking to build a preference to any one breed. I have found sucess in looking for certain attributes vs. a special breed for my needs.
I guess if you are breeding for the registered market you would be required to add certain breed characteristics into the mix.
When ever you are breeding a hybridized animal there are alot more things to consider.
As a young boy, the most coveted feed team in the county was made with a Percheron X mare and a Belgian mule. That kind of stuck in my head.
This is a pretty big subject. I’m sure that others will have more to contribute.CIWParticipantI was able to give those boys over in Gap, Pa. a call. (Very nice fellers) They are very willing to help me get a cart going. He is sending a catalogue and other associated information.
After, I found a company right in my own back yard, that sells accumulators that are used on battery powered lift trucks. I just need to make sure that I get one that will carry my needs for flow and pressure. I still may build it myself though.
Thank you for your input.CIWParticipantWhen the pioneers came West; The horses were faster but broke down (got sick and had foot problems) sooner than the mules. And the mules recovered quicker than horses. Probably due to their hybrid vigor.
Oxen were slow, but were the best for turning the sod after arrival at the destination. After, they were often sold or traded for a team. Sometimes even eaten after that.
I have a team of Belgian mares and teams of mules.
My opinion is that there is a place where each will excel.
Think of a mule as a long distance runner and a draft bred horse as a body builder.
The mules muscles are more extended and streamline, which gives him the ability to work more efficiently over longer periods of time Though at lesser loads. He also won’t build lactic acid in the muscle as quickly as the horse. On the other hand, the horse has muscles that are bulky and can exert greater bursts of power, though it be for shorter amouts of time.
In conclusion, I found that there are many trade offs to take into consideration when deciding your needs. Others may be the personalities and work ethic of each individual animal.
With todays high maintenance costs thriftiness swings the pendelum heavily in the mules favor. But the mares can reproduce themselves, as well as doing a days work.
I would say that you have to acess your own situation. - AuthorPosts