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A different one.

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A closer view.

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Here’s one similar. The castings on the top ring are not identical but the setup should be similar. Triangular, like wally b says.

 

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Shoes and collars are apples and oranges. If you want to go down that road, collars are more like flip-flops/sandals than shoes. I only use a pad to adjust the fit of a collar and then only if I have to. I have acquired a good selection of different sizes of collar and my horses usually wear two different collars over the course of twelve months. I’d rather swap collars than use a pad. If I’m going to be away from home and I know the horse is going to sweat out a lot of water, I might bring along a pad to add later. A horse can sweat off an incredible amount of water weight during the course of a hard day.

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Remember that when you hook straight on, the bit is only acting on the mouth. The tongue, the bars, the corners of the lips perhaps. Depends on the shape of the horse’s mouth, the tightness of the headstall, the shape of the mouthpiece.

When you add leverage, you act on the mouth (tongue, bars, corners of the lips), the chin groove (via the curb chain or curb strap) and also on the poll. Three locations on the head rather than just one. That can sometimes make a horse feel a little claustrophobic.

The difference between hooking straight on and dropping down one notch on the shanks is HUGE. Not just in amplification, but in the number of different pressure points that are contacted by the bridle.

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If you’ve got deep pockets and a horse with a 6″ mouth, you can really go to town with the Myler elbow or Liverpool bits: http://www.shipshewanaharness.com/ecommerce/Myler-Bits-Draft-Horse-Size.cfm?&cat_id=506

Although the images all show elbow shanks, the website says that Liverpool shanks are available on all the bits shown.

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Maybe something like this: http://www.drivingessentials.com/product_popup.php?ID=60020

This web site only has it up to a 6″ though. Mine take a 6.5″.

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Do you have a shanked bit with a non-jointed mouthpiece that gives some clearance for the tongue? I have found that one of my horses prefers a shaped mouthpiece over a jointed or straight one.  She will go okay in a single-jointed snaffle but she does not like a straight bar anything, at all. Instead, she likes a non-broken mouthpiece that has a curve or arch to it. I guess she must have a low palate or a fat tongue.

Now we have an Icelandic boarded here and his lips are so tight and short that you can’t tighten the headstall to raise the bit above his upper canines. Last year, before his upper canines started to erupt, he was being ridden in a three-piece mouthpiece snaffle (a French Link), which he seemed to like just fine. I don’t like a lot of points of articulation on a driving bit, though, so I was going to try a mullen mouth half cheek/spoon on him for driving. Now these new upper canines of his are throwing a wrench in the works. Going to wait till they are completely in before I decide what to do next. I really don’t want his green owner driving him bitless but removing canines on a male horse is no simple matter. Not sure what we are going to do about that fellow.

Every horse is different if you take the time to get to know them.

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One more.

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Another one…

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Just this week I came across a few photos pertaining to “logging steep areas” that I saved because I enjoyed them so much. Thought I’d put them in here for everyone to admire.

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@Does’ Leap 40650 wrote:

Yes, that is the same clip I have used. However, where the front of the tug clips into the hame, I prefer the type of clip that has a swivel. This way the tug can move with minimal impact on the hame and collar.

I like those too. I consider them a bonus if a harness I’m thinking of buying has that type of trace clip. Makes the harness behave nicer when you go to hang it up.

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How did you make the rivet holes through the foretug? I know my rotary hole punch couldn’t handle that and I don’t think even my individual strike punches could do it. Did you drill them?

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A clip and some rivets seem like something that an even slightly-handy person could do. I take back what I said about it being an “undertaking”. 😀 The clips… are they the same kind of clip that is often used at the hame bolt on a trace? The Aaron Martin catalog calls those “Concord Clips” : http://www.aaronmartin.com/product.php?cat_id=1230&catview=160&submit=View

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@Does’ Leap 40630 wrote:

I respectfully disagree. I have modified several d-rings (most recently for an 1100 lb Canadian and have shortened the front tugs on all my harnesses. If you have a d-ring, let me know and I will post more details on modifying the front tug.

George

Ohhhhh, I seem to remember that. Did you use rivets instead of sewing?

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