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There is a taxidermist concocsion known as stop rot. It works well on skunk smell as well as a great wound dressing. http://www.mckenziesp.com/STRQ-P20444.aspx
I keep it on hand at all times!OkiefarmerParticipantOne of the main reasons for building this baler is lack of machinery in the south. You guys up north are lucky enough to have alot of the old machinery still available to you. Here in the south what hasn’t rusted away has been hauled off for scrap. I traveled to Missouri to get my loose hay loader (500 miles away). The only self-propelled balers half-way useable that I have found are 750-1000 miles away.
I only use 100-150 square bales a year depending on the winter. On average I only have to feed in January and February. My pastures are coastal Bermuda and winter rye. I run 3 drafts, 3 quarter horses, a mini, 2 cows, and 5 hogs on 35 acres.
So for now i will continue the hard labor, unless i happen across a baler close, for the right money. It really isn’t that bad. Set the baler by the wagon, have the strings already cut, and a feller can knock one out about every 3 mins.OkiefarmerParticipantWelcome to fatherhood! She sure is a cute lil chooker!
OkiefarmerParticipantI’m not an experienced teamster by any means but have owned horses for most of my life, so take my opinion for what it is worth. I like the idea of bitless…but not for every horse.
I have a horse that is pretty head strong…listens well but is a little slow to respond. My main horse listens well…and is very, very soft mouthed.
Having said that, I believe the least amount of steel in the mouth the better. Most people are way to rough, some intentional some not. To reach this goal I believe that many,many, many hours must be spent working with each other. The horse and teamster will learn each other and to TRUST each other. The more time spent together the better each will be, and what ever tools necessary to keep moving forward and not backward is best. It is best if you can keep or borrow several different bridles, bits and bitless to see which works best with the least amount of force.OkiefarmerParticipantJust got a northern tool book in today…..$40 peavey http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200326320_200326320?issearch=119032
Hope this helps!
OkiefarmerParticipantYour welcome to stop by anytime. Anybody willing to learn is. There is still alot I don’t know but i am willin to share what i have.
OkiefarmerParticipantThanks guys. Great info. I will check the suggestions.
As far as neighbors, they all think i am crazy for trying to go self sufficient. Only the big farms plant grains( wheat or corn) and i am sure they are genetically altered. As OldKat pointed out we are in a good place for native grasses and get about 48″ of rain per yr. My pastures come up in late feb. early march in rye followed by vetch and clover. About the time the rye is done the Bermuda is growing strong. I usually don’t have to start putting hay out till dec/jan depending on rain. My idea was to grow oats to supplement with the workload. I may not need them.
Also I wasn’t very clear earlier……i grow a garden to feed the family…..and only grow heirloom seed and use only organic matter in there. I can remeber when i was a kid the cancer, heart diseases, diabetes, ect. wasn’t near as bad….i figure it is because of all the junk sprayed on our food before it gets to market. There are no others around here that have the passion to grow organic…..they think buyin plants from wal-mart and buying posions to spray with is close enough.OkiefarmerParticipantThanks ya’ll for the warm invite. I have lurked here before but deciced to go ahead and join. I’m still new at this and workin hard to get to where i want to be.
Lanny- you really are out there in the middle of now where on Weyhouser land! Absolutely beautiful country up in there tho.
OkiefarmerParticipantI feel sorry for ya’ll up north. We have already started harvesting taters here in SE Okla. We plant late Feb. early March. The maters are just about ready to turn red.
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