[PhilG]

http://www.folkstreams.net/film,187

I posted this before , but if you have’nt seen it -it is a good visual as well as a great story (Mitch posted some great stuff after it on another thread!)

[PhilG]

Kids love to ride

[PhilG]

Mitch,
Thanks for the info on Ben, sad as it is. It was nice to see him work, everything was just natural in his movements, he new what was going to hapen next and with out any strugle or second guessing himself.
I will definately build one of those, I hope our tight grained Dug fir will hold up for a season or two, no hardwoods around me at all, and no blacksmithing corner in my shop, I’ll have to remidy that. If you get a chance post a photo of your nose chain set up and what you use to build the pivit part on the Maine scoot. Maybe I can help spread some your Northeastern ways here in the Rockys.
Thanks again

[PhilG]

Thanks Taylor, that is the simple remidy I needed, I’ll start with that 300 count and see how it goes.

[PhilG]

What Carl said is the key, export them, I was draging and dropping them and it didnt work.

[PhilG]

Scott,
The rakes can be calced with the rise and run, if your rise is say 10′ and ( 16 risers @7 1/2″ ) and 15 treads at 11″ your run is 13′ 9″, diagnal of 17′ = 8 3/4 pitch = 36.03 degrees on your stairs with a complement angle of 53.97 degrees (now you see why prefer a sharp drawknife) So with a 4″ spacing to keep the government inspecters busy plus the picket of say 2 1/2″ thats 6 1/2″ of travel on a flat (run) on a 8 3/4 pitch that would be – 8″ 1/16 on the bottm/top rail (diagnal) and 4 3/4″ of rise from one hole to another. Divide the rail space from post to post and divide it and get as close to this number (8 1/16) as you can- DON’T forget to add in an empty 4″ space to the mix. I have mark out a whole rail and had the top one right up against the top post and had to start all over.
Then to plumb up I use a laser type thing PLS5 or 3 or any will do for this to get the center of the upper hole, even big brass plumb bob works great. rip a 1″ x 1″ on a table saw for a first run layout tool to save scratching off your good rails, as far as drilling angled holes the best thing i have found is a carbide tiped hole saw with a 8″ pilot bit, then finish of with forsner or self feed bit so the 8″ dosent drill out the other side, angled holes always want to drift the first 1/2 moon cut is tuff just hold steady and take your time, speed not preasure works best in the bit.
Hope that helps.

Thanks for the distance stuff, I think I will bring a long tape with me for a while until i get it sorted out and take some better notes.

Carl, post some photos of that one (its the only way i get to travel these days to see other parts of the country) that sounds like the perfect scenario, thats exactly what I’m sooting for here.

[PhilG]

Mac or PC ?

[PhilG]

“He showed me a great deal even though he is a man of few words.” –
J-L, Wyoming
( coudn’t figure out the quotes on the system)

” just because I don’t run my mouth don’t mean I got nothin to say”
Drive by Truckers

I’m sorry I mist out on the Jerry Jeff posts, I grew up in AZ, and had JJW on 8 track even, My Grandpa was also a very quit man, went quail hunting with us,fixed everything… it was years after he was gone that I realized all he past down.

[PhilG]

Hey Scott,
Most of this is not very sound, there are some nice pieces though that i will save from the firewood pile. I was thinking maybe some bed posts and rails like you see in the resort furniture stores. That tenon maker would work for that too.
I have made a lot of railing that is a very good side buisiness, I was getting $55 a LF installed for straight runs and $85 for stairs( i hate doing the stair rakes, the should be about $ 200 a LF to break even but the straight runs make up for it)
I mostly do full scribe railing because not many others do and it looks pretty cool (espesialy out of Juniper, but its harder than titanium), that I get about $125 – $200 LF, and the rakes are easier to scribe than to try and drill at an angle. I love pealin railing on a sunny Colorado winter day with a freaky sharp drawnife.

Lancek,
how long will the horse skid be to the forwarder trail, I have seen Carl mention 1000′ a few times, is this what you shoot for also , or less on a job of that size?
Skid steer is stayen, my kids would kill me if I sold it.

[PhilG]

Lancek,
can you do that many acres with horses? we are looking at 200 acres of Fir, mostly blowdown and were thinking that might be to much to handle, we are not to good at figuring time on the horses yet.

[PhilG]

Taylor,
I loaded this with a rubber tiered skidd, but I have used my selfloader also, we just put plywood down under the outriggers. This road is fresher than most, usually they are so beat up from the snowplow and chains we dont even need to wory about it. I would like to sell the semi with loader and put a loader on the goosneck, i think that would be a good fit with horse logging. The skidsteer could go to but dang they are handy little buggers and you could only get 10 cents on the dollar sellin equipment these days.
I just have a partner and my yongest son working now (part time he is 13)
would like to get bigger jobs somday and see 5 horses/guys doing laps, that would be quite a sight, how could that not compair with a 525 cat skidding?
and at the same cost with less crap to fix and fuel to truck up the mountain.
Do you think that could be done? We have a lot of dead Aspin and Lodgpole around here, it won’t be cleared out in my lifetime.

[PhilG]

We have been doing some dead Aspen removal, hoping the low impact aspect gets some more jobs comming for us.

[PhilG]

Don’t use plate steel !

[PhilG]

Mark,
Post some photos if you can, I need to start the same project when I get a little extra $.
Thanks

[PhilG]

This is our Belgian, she is about 2200 lbs, she is much stockier than her team mate, i would like to bread her with an Ardennes, has anyone ever cross bread like that ? it might make a nice working mans budget version.

[Author]

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