[Riverbound]

I’ve been working through an issue with two mules. One is exceptionally forward, the other exceptionally pokey. The forward mule seems to be doing well now, after hooking her with some aged belgian horses for some plowing, etc., this spring. She still steps into the collar like she’s going to haul a train sometimes, but she’s definitely making progress. The pokey mule, however, I have pretty much been ignoring, at least as far as work is concerned. I’ve still been leading her, grooming her, etc., and she is a real calm, nice mule. But, when hooked she drags behind so much that it is a hazard. I’d wanted to hook her in a three abreast and a four-up, but it just wasn’t working with her hesitation.
I’m going to try taking her out on the forecart and use the whip to tickle her along and see if it carries over to real work.
I’m considering trying out “flagging” as Buck Brannaman describes it, where you ride the horse around other horses with a flag that you move the other horses away with, in an attempt to help build confidence in the horse (mule), because she is very passive in the herd.
Anyway, I’m hoping to hear back from all you experienced teamsters that she’s not permanently pokey and here’s how I might proceed…
Thanks!

[Riverbound]

Thanks Stephen. I’d like to see it. Getting the depth is the trick. Actually getting the soil in the right condition would solve the issue. Nice deep loose soil. We’re working on that, but we just started with sod this season (new farm). I’ll search the webs for some photos from Twisp!

[Riverbound]

Of course it may be unavailable in the UK, but I spent a few hours on our Shipshe cultimulcher today turning plowed ground into a nice mellow seed bed/transplant bed. That is a great tool. I also use a one row cultivator extensively, and just add Hiller disks to make raised beds/ridges. I use an I&J cultivator. The steering isn’t quite as good as my old JD, but it isn’t broken, which is a real bonus. I would second the point about horse drawn equipment being more appropriate than 3pt stuff. Being able to see what you’re doing while you drive and look forward is better than looking back all the time. And safer, too. Eyes on the horses and if you fall off you won’t get run over. Now if you or anyone else finds an effective way to dig carrots with the horses, I’d greatly benefit from learning about it. Just planted 8600 feet of carrots and am praying for a good stand, but the digging fork lurks in the tool shed.

[Riverbound]

I tried four up with the rope and pulley this fall. It was a lot of fun. I will say that I didn’t think it was easy though. It was a very new thing for me to drive two separate teams with only two hands. Turning a 180 was touchy. All you experienced teamsters make it look so easy! But the hitch itself was easy and convenient.

[Riverbound]

The only thing horse powered about our fertility management this year is manure production. There is a rodeo horse operation down the road from us, and they delivered and spread about 50 side dump semi loads on our 10 acres of vegetable field , which is still in hay sod. We are just starting out at our new farm this season, having just moved. We’re leaving a long lane next to our field for them to deliver into a wind row this season, from which we’ll spread as ground opens up in rotation. We tow a JD spreader behind the forecart. One goal is to come up with a compost turner that will improve and shrink the material.

[Riverbound]

Hi Anton,
I’m pretty green, so take what I have to say with a grain of salt. I’ve been using horses full time in our vegetable CSA operation for four years. We have three Belgian horses and someone has lent us a team of Belgian mules for the last year. When I was first starting out I was very focused/obsessed with breeds, especially mules, feed efficiency, thrift, etc. But, I think that in the big picture, that stuff is really kind of insignificant. Consider that your efficiency in utilizing the team is the biggest contributor to that equation. And, the animals that give you the most confidence are going to be the animals used most often, get the most work done, used in the the most diverse ways, etc. Because I would agree with you that the individual animals are what really counts, not breeds, and because clearly we don’t work with generalities, but with specific animals, specific tools, fields, etc., I would recommend finding the best trained team possible, regardless of breed. Among our equines, two of the horses are fairly easy keepers (staying fat here in the North Dakota winter), one tends to lose condition. One of the mules is the fattest of the bunch, one is the skinniest. Our “hottest” tempered horse is the most trusting (my favorite), and most attentive to driving instructions, which means if I’m paying attention he won’t step on the plants, but if I’m not, well… Our most steady reliable horse is a 20 year old mare. She’ll fall asleep at the wheel sometimes and drift where you don’t want her to go. The two skinniest (one mule, one horse) are the calmest tempered an least likely to panic. The mules do very well with routine, especially those routines that they came to us with. Anyway, the point is they’re individuals. Buying a team in the winter, especially a cold one like this, you should be able to get a good sense of who is and isn’t an easy keeper. Anyway, good luck!

[Riverbound]

Speaking as relative beginner who has been market gardening full time with horses for four years, my opinion is that the best horses for me were older, very settled, been there done that horses that knew the ropes. Cultivating is obviously a touchy operation, and your hard work in the greenhouse, on the transplanter, etc., can easily be destroyed with a little drift out of line. It’s my favorite job with the horses. But, that’s because my horses are steady, will go slow, and aren’t afraid. They’re not brain dead or anything, but they follow the leader. Mine happen to be Belgians, and I am trying out some smaller footed mules this season, but the key for me getting started was 18 year old horses who know how to be driven.

[Riverbound]

Just to put it out there, I know you’re talking hay, if your friend is looking for early graze, we planted pearl millet for early horse graze last year, although oats would be cheaper and earlier. Also spring wheat is an option.
We did get three grazings off the pearl millet, and the horses seemed pleased.

[Riverbound]

Thanks for the info Donn. I’m still waiting to hear back from EZ. I’m looking at mowing 16″ swaths between rows of veggies spaced at 64″, the veggies being cultivated with a 48″ cultivator. Kind of odd, I know, but there are “good” reasons, really 🙂

[Riverbound]

About 2K as far as I’ve found out. Plus shipping of course. There are some options, at least at Shipshe, like with or without front gang turning. I’m feeling a pretty sold.

[Riverbound]

Jared, I really don’t have much info on it, but have a call in to E-Z to find out. I’ll let you know when I do.

[Riverbound]

Any thoughts on the other pieces of equipment I’m looking at?
The new foot lift sulky from pioneer: 14″ Kvernland bottom

High clearance boomless sprayer from IVA: 45 foot spray width appropriate for organic materials like fish fertilizer, 52″ clearance for driving over grown veggies, two horse set-up.

An “Alley Mower” from E-Z Trail, which is an in-line one horse 30″ mower that I intend to use to clip cover crop strips that we plant in between our vegetable rows.

The Pioneer gang mower for mowing the lawn.

Anybody have experience with any of these? Alternatives? Endorsements?

Thanks!

[Riverbound]

Did Shipshe accommodate your request for pickpoint hooks? Also, would you say that the machine is capable of working down freshly plowed ground without a discing? That would really be awesome.

[Riverbound]

I’m planning to use it after plowing and discing, and it sounds like this is exactly what I need. Thanks.

[Riverbound]

Thanks for the input. Makes me feel more confident about the investment.

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