[Scott G]

Sounds as though it might be getting soggy back there??

[Scott G]

George,
You can get 6-8′ x 2″ webbing slings from any place that has anything to do with winches. A whoopie sling is a section of bull rope 8-12′ that has an eye spliced in the end of it for installing your block. You can then take multiple wraps depending on the diameter of the tree and form a timber hitch. The larger diameter bull rope with multiple wraps causes less damage unless it is put under a tremendous shock load. For minimal damage, however, you can’t beat a webbing sling with a clevis shackle and block. A great place to buy all of this rigging is at arborist supply companies such as Wesspur, Sherrill’s, or Bailey’s.

[Scott G]

You have to love a horse that is that quiet in the woods! I think you can safely lay the lines down while you’re setting your choker…:)

Trace carriers only exist on harness with a britchen so that points out there importance; very little except for convenience. Ideal is a 90 degree angle off the collar/hames to your point of draft. With the d-ring you folks use it would seem to be less of an issue. If you want to see where the tugs normally would hang take them out of the trace carriers and see where they ride under load. Naturally they will rise and fall but you’ll get a good idea of where they should hang out.

I use to tie my lines together, but no more. It’s just too easy to get hung up on stuff in the woods while ground skidding and I’m constantly handling/readjusting my lines anyway. Just doesn’t feel “right” anymore…

The best place to be while ground skidding is at minimum behind the point of hitch on the singletree and preferably further back then that. You should be in a position where you can see the “big picture” to correct any potential issues and keep yourself out of the bite. I use 18′ lines when I’m ground skidding single.

It makes me smile because I know you are having a blast out there. 🙂 It also makes me smile because you have just about as perfect a temperament horse as you could ask for when starting to work in the woods.

I look forward to meeting you this weekend in Athol!

[Scott G]

Looks good, George. A couple of points come to mind…

Using a timber hitch with a whoopie sling, a chunk of bull rope, or ideally a webbing sling will be easier on the tree you are running your block on. I have a whoopie with my block and try to use trees as a spar and/or block anchor that I’m going to be removing anyway. Even though it may not be visible, you can create quite a crushing injury to the phloem & cambium tissue that can effectively girdle the tree.

If you have an extra block and can use it as a fairlead to keep your point of draft low that is a good thing. That goes for whatever your using for pulling, horse or otherwise. You may even be able to incorporate another and gain some mechanical advantage.

The higher you can get the block, the better your lift. I’ll often climb with gaffs to set my block higher. If I use the gaffs I’ll definitely be removing that tree so the gaff wounds are not an issue.

I use a girth hitch in many instances where they will work such as a t-bar, ball hitch, etc. It appears as as though you might be using Amsteel Blue. That rope splices very easily. You may want to run a splice to form an eye to permanently install a 1/4″-5/16″ grab hook on.

All in all, great job. It doesn’t take long working with block/high lead systems in the woods to fully appreciate their application & effectiveness.

I’ve attached a link to a .pdf that my friend that I work with put together to better show mechanical advantages of simple rigging in the woods.

Also, here is a link to the Portable Winch website. They do a great job of illustrating the advantages and various configurations as well.

Look forward to meeting you this weekend!

[Scott G]

@Carl Russell 30757 wrote:

Looks about right to me…. just make sure you ask for an SUV (:p)….. No I’m sure you’ll be fine with that route.

Carl

Going as cheap as I can get. Chevy Aveo (or equivalent), regardless it is a rental so I’m obligated to catch major air with all 1.6liters of raw power. No bridges needed! 😎

[Scott G]

Do any of you see any potential issues with the directions Google gave me from the Manchester Airport to Athol (& back)?

Thanks in advance for taking a look!

Link to Scott’s directions to Athol during the wee hours of Friday morning 🙂

[Scott G]

Are any of the main roads in the area still washed out/closed from Irene? Specifically any between Manchester and Athol?

[Scott G]

Mark & all,
I recently have pulled all personal contact information ( with the exception of G Map), for the most part, off of forums, FB, etc. I have been experiencing issues that I believe are related to information mining by either internet malware or someone/something else. Until things settle down a bit thats what I need to do. Thank you for respecting that…

[Scott G]

I make a motion that we have a gallon of each for consumption Sunday morning at breakfast by an unbiased panel of judges. We (notice the “we”) will then decide which State takes the prize, NH or VT. It is quite fortunate that this event will be held on neutral ground in MA 🙂

[Scott G]

Eric,
Optimal chain size/type/length for me is 5/16 high-test -7-8′ normally. Some folks on here use 1/4″. 3/8 is overkill for horse logging IMO. I am “hooked” on C-hooks since I started using them as opposed to simple slip hooks. The tag end of the chain I leave empty or put an ~ 1′ fid/probe on. If I need a longer choker/chain I just temporarily add a clevised grab hook I keep with me so I can join 2 chokers together. I also keep a 16′ length of 5/16 with a grab hook on each end for reaching deeper into a hole, slash/brush, etc. With the grab hook on each end, add two chokers and I can have 32′ of reach-out length if I need it.

[Scott G]

When I get a chance the next day or so I’ll find/take the pic of the grab hook I bought from David Miller. Large bail grab with large hook & built in swivel. Great for grabbing ahold of and coming around without obligating your fingers/hand too much. I just used a closed hook on a clevis attached to the singletree for years. This is far superior. I do like the pear link set up that I saw some of you using last fall. I would miss the bail handle though. The new swivel clevis that is in Carl’s pic is what I am going to use to directly attach my ring tongs to the single tree. Should work really slick and is yet another opportunity to “shorten up”.

[Scott G]

Very nice, Ed. That rig very closely resembles what we also refer to as a a “go devil”. I agree with Carl… this can definitely go a long way towards increasing production while skidding with a single. Less resistance is always a great thing. I look forward to meeting you in Athol!

[Scott G]

Tom, you can have your local saddle shop make some canvas panniers pretty easily and fairly inexpensive. Likewise, kitchen, (hard) panniers are easy to make out of plywood. Just use heavy 1/4″ harness/rigging leather for the hang straps. About the only time i see used panniers/pack saddles for sale out here is either when an outfitter goes bust or someone dies.

[Scott G]

Do those of you that are having issues have a Google account?

[Scott G]

Mitch,
All bf scales are based on supposed recoverable volume, not total volume. Whether its Scribner, Scribner Decimal C, Doyle, or International the same principle applies – it is what is produced (recoverable) after the headrig is done with it. Problem is that all of these scaling formulas were calculated back when mills weren’t even close to being as effecient as they are now. One of the small local mills I’ve sold to typically gets a 15% overrun and they are running an older circular headrig. Bandmills, locally, can have upwards of a 35-40% overrun (on Scribner decimal C – the scale we use) on the average size timber we have.

I am not a fan of the weight system although it is used fairly routinely out here. If you are running a large mechancal operation and hot-logging it can work out OK for you as long as you agree on an average moisture content. For small guys like me, who might build up a deck of a specific sort at the landing over an extended period of time, it doesn’t work well due to the dry climate we have. We can routinely run 15% or lower RH which draws moisture out of wood quickly. With the weight system (out here) you are literally losing money the longer it sits on the landing.

My favorite method of scaling/measuring wood is by solid CCF (as opposed to loose cf as measured in a cord). Solid CCF, for the most part, is an absolute. The USFS cruises & bids out its timber sales locally by CCF exclusively now. Western Canada, the same although it is expressed as cubic metre. Unfortunately, the mills aren’t buying by CCF yet. My preferred method of measuring is the Smalian formula. You can then take an average of your deck and end up with an accurate scale. If I’m selling sawlogs, I’ll scale everything myself (Scribner Decimal C) and then haggle with the mill owner over their scale if need be. Post & Pole material is all by the piece, basically based on diameter and linear ft. This is a really nice way to go as I just build a load, grab my tally counter and crayon and come up with (X x $2.45 (or whatever the current price is)). I have over two decades with the fellow I sell posts to, he trusts me, so when I give him the number he cuts me a check on the spot. Yet another reason I love logging for posts & poles.

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