[Vicki]

I’ve used vertical eveners only with sleds and plows using chains, not with a tongue. Your final question is out of my league to answer; though, yes, I cannot see how the evener could attach to the pull chain used to hold the tongue. My guess is that the tongue could be held to the heel team’s ring by T-pin, then put the evener on the pull chain just like you would without a tongue.

I wonder how they did it historically with the big freight hitches out west. Howie probably knows. . .

[Vicki]

Here’s a photo

[Vicki]

I made a unicorn hitch with my three Dexters a few times, just for fun and training. Howie: remember Heather? She and I did this. She drove the single and her brother drove the team behind, hitched to a stoneboat. We simply chained the single’s whiffletree to the team’s yoke ring; not ideal line of draft , but we were not really working very hard.

I have used a vertical evener with tandem ox hitches, but not with a unicorn. Works great. You can use a drop chain if you don’t have an evener.

I suppose that if you had poles or shafts instead of chains on the single, a faster rear team could not overtake the single in a unicorn.

That grandson of yours, ricenmor, sounds like a great kid! Help him try his ideas if you can.

[Vicki]

I think it should not pose serious problems, especially having a driver for each team at first. Folks often hitch teams of varying sizes and experience in this way at the Ox Drovers Gatherings at Tillers, in order to help the inexperienced team learn.

From my limited experience, I can say to watch that the older bigger Guernseys are not bothered by having other steers behind them, and try to turn around to face them off. It’s likely that they won’t mind, especially if they “know” the shorthorns. The yearlings will probably try to overtake the Guernseys, being young and frisky, but their driver will be able to deal with that and also the weight of the disc will discourage it.

What you are doing sounds exciting. Post photos if you can.

[Vicki]

Tickets are only $1 or 6 for $5. You need not be present to win (but you need to make transport arrangements.) If you can’t take the calves, you can choose $200.00 instead and the calves will be immediately auctioned. So you could enter a proxy bid for them with Tim in the event they get auctioned.

They will have had a week of training at the Tillers Oxen Basics Class.

[Vicki]

Yes, go for it. Be consistent, firm, but positive. There have been many fine Jersey oxen. Abby Richmond had some with which she did lots of work and rode as well.

[Vicki]

So cool! Fun, handsome, instructional, inspiring. Yes, you guys should be on TV. Thanks for making these videos.

[Vicki]

Hi Plowboy. We had a real nice 3/4 charolais bull. At just over 2 yrs., on early summer grass, we butchered him. He was less marbled and tougher than what our customers liked for steaks, but the ground beef and the chuck and round roasts were the best tasting stuff we’ve ever had! We probably should have kept him more confined and corned him a bit to get better steaks, but the huge amount of ground was SO GOOD! Sold out too quick!

He helped put bigger butts on our calves. We sold those calves live, though, and haven’t eaten them.

You know what you’re doing, so the angus won’t be a problem, especially since you plan to be in contact with them. But angus are known around here as escape artists. (I could suggest Dexters (ha ha) if you like black; the meat is fantastic! But I know so many herds of those are horrible, if allowed to be “wild.” ) Mine are tame and pet-like.

Best of luck to you and enjoy them.

[Vicki]

Nice photo, Droverone!

Audrey: Like Andrew said, the important factor in the single neck yoke is the amount of drop in the hitch, and the proper width. Otherwise one is not “better” than the other. Anecdotal: I borrowed a single briefly that was of the V-shape, whereas all mine are U-shape; the V-shape performed better than U when the ox was dragging loads: less see-sawing and better angle under load. (I think the drop is a little shallow on my U-shaped singles.)

You must consider what you prefer, what you can get ,and do yourself about yokes, in deciding what is “better.” I think there’s merit in the argument that oxen can pull more naturally or effectively in head yoke, and oxen in them, team or single, are certainly beautiful to behold. But for me, who could not/would not by myself fit and tie on head yokes, they collect dust in a shed. Much “better” for me and my oxen are well-fitted neck yokes that we are often out using for work and shows.

[Vicki]

I agree that either your cow or steer could probably be trained without too much trouble. The steer might be a good choice for a couple reasons. First, the steer is younger thus will probably accept your leadership more easily. It would be great if he is already halter trained and handled, and respects your space. (A ten-month Jersey steer is probably pretty frisky, though, so let him play around some in a paddock before you take him out for lessons.) Secondly, the steer will be able to devote his calories and his attention to working, whereas the cow has her cycles and lactation and calf rearing.

The jobs you describe would fit a single Jersey ox well. You may need a larger yoke as the steer grows.

You could purchase an already-trained ox, but if you enjoy spending time with the steer (or cow if you use her) and can commit to training, he/she will be “yours” and you won’t need to spend money on another animal.

[Vicki]

I used gray PVC electrical conduit for my 4″ starter yoke. I used a metal coffee can for the form. You could cut a wooden form instead.

GoatSong, your calves should start pulling very lightly as soon as they can perform reasonably well in the yoke. Put a little pole between them, then hitch a few sticks of firewood or some brush; even with the 4 x 4 yoke and PVC bows.

You will have so much fun!

[Vicki]

Wow. On the fabrication of the implement…on the steers’ muscling…on lots of forethought and work…Wow.

Are you using the disc plow on previously-cultivated plots? If so, what was grown in them and what was the condition of the plot this spring?

[Vicki]

Anthony, red osier and gray dogwood are the “default setting” on my farm. Anywhere not mowed for a year will sprout right up with it. Your soil must be moist, but rich.

My Dexter cattle enjoy browsing on the tender twigs and swinging their heads in it.

When the stems get over 2″ or so we take a chainsaw to the clumps. I like them in smaller shrub form, but after a few years they get to be tall leggy masses that slump over and are impossible to get through. We had old hayfield that was covered with it. We brush hogged, then pasturing it has stopped its recurrence. Often those pastures will get mowed once a year. Just keep haying or grazing the fields and that’s all it should need to keep it down. Your thin stems are simply sprouts from the old roots.

For keeping lane or field edges clear, you have to mow once a year.

[Vicki]

I read the previous post on runaways. That is some EXCELLENT insight and advice there! Tim, we should publish this in the MODA News and you could write an article for RH.

[Vicki]

Kevin, I do not think you must give up on these calves. You are exteremely committed and spending tons of time training them!

I didn’t read the thread Tim referenced yet, so this is my immediate response: One: your calves are very young and their energy level is high and concentration level low, and it is springtime with the world full of greening grass and intereasting distractions. Tie them, face them into a wall, or have a partner to stand with them if you are going to leave your driving position. I couldn’t walk away from my hyper-alert calves for more than an instant until they were over two years old. Two: Running away can become a “learned” response. You absolutely must not let that happen, so do not give them the opportunity. Without them being able to see you in that driving position, they are without a leader, perhaps somewhat anxious without you there, and kind of taking matters into their own “hands.” Three: I had to teach my calves to stand and we practiced a lot. I would stop at a familiar location, give “stand” command, move back along the nigh, touching and repeating “stand”, go around back and come up alongside the off, all the while with hand or goad or voice letting them know i was there and in control, not taking my attention off them at all so I could tap right away if it looked like one was getting ready to move. Maybe the other oxmen would think this being necessary was a bad sign in my calves, but it worked for me. Also, some breeds are “friskier” and more alert than others. What breed are yours, Kevin?

[Author]

Posts