DAPNET Forums Archive › Forums › Draft Animal Power › Training Working Animals › Training Horses and/or Mules › Buck Back Straps
- This topic has 22 replies, 11 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 7 months ago by Ed Thayer.
- AuthorPosts
- January 28, 2014 at 4:58 pm #82261Ed ThayerParticipant
I purchased a straight bar bit last weekend and took some pictures of it in Oz mouth. Does it appear to fit properly? it is a 6″ bit, which was the size of the snaffle I was using before.
January 29, 2014 at 2:21 am #82265JeroenParticipantI think the width is fine. You forgot the chin chain!
Here’s how to adjust: http://youtu.be/hPVgdEwPKQw?t=4m (start at 4:00)
February 1, 2014 at 10:21 am #82320Peacework FarmParticipantI have had good success with the buck back rope. Used as a training tool, we have secured it to the forward horse for several work sessions, gradually reducing the tension in the rope. All the while re-enforcing the work that the buck back rope does with voice commands. In not too long we hitch up without the buck back rope at all, and the voice commands alone serve.
It is important to keep in mind, that if the horse is not wearing a halter, the bridle needs to have a nose band and under-jaw strap with a ring to secure the rope.I think it really depends on the horse, and it may not work in every situation. But from what I have seen, it is a good tool to keep in the tool box.
February 3, 2014 at 3:00 pm #82368Michelle RossParticipantI used a buck back strap on my forward Belgium mare but she fought it constantly and just pushed harder. I took it off and started working her with just my voice and pull and release methods on the lines, anticipating her movements. That helped some. Then,a very experienced teamster gave me an elbow straight bit with a curb chain replacing the snaffle to try and that worked like a charm when driving the team. When driving solo, the mare is not forward and I think it is sort of competition for her to want to lead ahead.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to view attached files.February 3, 2014 at 7:04 pm #82375Donn HewesKeymasterHi Ed, I hope you don’t mind, but I will make a couple of suggestions about the curb chain even though you may already know all this. Others might find it useful. With that bit, (It looks like it fits fine) you get leverage when you move the lines attachment point down further on the shanks. The first slot is the least amount of added leverage and the third is the most. In order to use any of the positions except the neutral one (if you attach lines where your over check is now there is no leverage effect) you will need the curb chain properly hung under the horses chin. With out it the bridle lifts and the bit pulls down with out rotating as it is intended. The metal hook in the picture should be below the bridle cheek piece instead of above it. With the bit in the horses mouth take the chain and twists it until it is flat (the links nest with each other) then hook while pulling the slack out. The length of the hook will give the right amount of release. These chains should be tight enough to slip a couple fingers under, but not looser. Too loose and they reach the soft flesh under the lip; not what we want. I like to take the bridle on and off with the chain in place and squeeze the hook to keep it closed. Many folks don’t like the extra finger to get the chain under the chin while putting the bit in the mouth. In either case don’t use the bit in a levered position with out the chain properly hooked. I hope this helps. donn
February 3, 2014 at 7:27 pm #82378Ed ThayerParticipantDon,
I have only used the bit in the neutral position and have not used the lower settings. Thanks for the clarification. I took the curb chain off until I thought it was necessary.I wanted to use the least amount of pressure first, then use the lower positions if it was called for. So far so good on the bit,Oz seems a little more relaxed and is working much better with the other horse. I pulled 3 scoot loads of wood out on Friday and they both worked well together.Not sure if it is the bit or that they are getting more comfortable with my signals.I think I will hold off on the buck back strap for now and see how things progress.I have been paying more attention to the horses response to my commands and line pressure and I am encouraged so far.
Ed
March 25, 2014 at 5:04 pm #82898Tom PaduanoParticipantHey Ed,
I was wondering how you have been doing since your last post with the new bit on Oz. I’m in a sort of similar situation and trying to make adjustments myself, so any info you post is great for me.
Also, this whole thread has been great, thanks to everyone for posting.
Tom
March 26, 2014 at 5:25 am #82900Ed ThayerParticipantTom,
I have had good success with this bit. Oz seems more comfortable with it and has settled into his job nicely. We did 16 sleigh rides last weekend for our maple open house and both horses did fine working together.
I have still not used the leverage positions and hook my lines to the ring.
Ed
- AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.