Building a Traditional Go-Devil

[Does’ Leap]

I am in the process of cutting out runners for a go-devil. I am doing a heavy thinning job at the moment. The end result will be a silvo-pasture, savannah-style landscape for grazing/browsing goats, horses, and hogs. Apparently this was a hilly pasture decades ago judging from the size of the trees. I am handling mostly small diameter wood (<12-14” DBH), skidding short distances (<250’) with a single horse and thought a go-devil would be an appropriate tool.

There was a great thread a while back started by Tristan Kelly of Nova Scotia. Hopefully the link will show up here: Go Devil Thread

Go Devil ( logging sled )

Although the steel go-devil seems slick, I want to reproduce a traditional go-devil gleaning information from two old logging references found here:Logging Text 1
http://digital.library.unt.edu/ark:/67531/metadc3392/m1/49/
Logging Text 2

The distinguishing features of the traditional go-devil appear to be a bunk affixed to the runners with a single bolt and a loose connection in the front of the sled described below.

“The front ends of the runners are kept apart by a roller, each end of which is held by a chain going through a hole in the runner, and fastened by an eye-bolt on the outside face. The roller is frequently a length of iron pipe through which the chain is run.”

The apparent advantage of this set-up is the runners have vertical and lateral flexibility to move over the terrain much like a scoot. And, of course, it is generally used with a single horse.

I would like to veer from the traditional construction in two ways: (1) I want to make it smaller and thus lighter and more maneuverable. From what I gather, they were usually 4-6 ‘ runners with a 4’ bunk. I am planning on a 3 foot runner. That is 3’ of flat runner on the ground not including the sweep in front and the upward tapered tail in back. I am also planning on a 3’ bunk. (2) Instead of pinning the bunk through the runner with a single bolt I am planning on using a scoot-iron set-up. This is a piece of angle-iron affixed to the side of the runner with a pin protruding through it to which the bunk is affixed. Even though this will be more labor and marginally heavier, I like this set-up more for its strength and ease of disassembly for storage and transport.

Any input/ideas/suggested changes is welcome. Here are some specific questions:
I want to install 1/8” x 2” steel shoes. Instead of carriage bolts (I’m not sure they make them that long), I am thinking of 5/16” treaded rod – drilling through the steel runner and shoe and welding the rod flush to the shoe. Thoughts?
I would also like steel stakes, one of which would serve as a skid to deck logs. Tristan’s go-devil (see you tube video) seems to have dogs to keep the log from slipping back. Any ideas on how to lock that stake/skid into the sled when using it as a skid? Ideally it would be flush to the bunk (or slightly higher).
How about securing the load? Most go-devils seem to utilize a ring attached to the center of the bunk and use it to secure the load without a binder. I am not clear how that is done.

I look forward to hearing your input.

George

[Ron]

hi George
We used a go devil quite a bit in the bush. I usually used a go devil about the same dimensions that you are planning. In this country that was the norm. We usually
separate the runners with a roller and a ring in the center. the nice part of the metal
ones that Tristan and other are using on you tube is the runners are bent in at the front to form the ring. This has two advantages in the bush one it does not catch runners on trees and it can be steered with a single chain. The chain passes through the ring at the front and back under the bunk and around the load. this keeps the load on the go devil and keeps the pull low and draft where it needs to be. Pulling on the load with the chain through the ring also makes steering the go devil so much easier. Right angle turns, snaking in and out of tight spots is easier. I also like to have the back of the runners beveled or bent up so that I can draw the go devil backwards. I used to drive out of the bush forward and then pull backward into the bush, log or pile so that I can load quick and easy. Tristan’s horse is very comfortable with this unit and is calm and handling pretty good sized loads with ease. This tells me that the design he is using is likely a good one.
Carriage bolts should not be that hard to find and it is surprising how fast you will ware runners. Metal stakes are good but My gloves were usually wet working all day in snow and a metal stake would be apt to freeze to your gloves. Just a thought. I like hard wood.
ron

[Does’ Leap]

Hi Ron:

Thanks for the reply. Where are you located? Can you describe your roller set-up in a little more detail. I am planning on a 1/4″ chain with an 1 1/4″ pipe slid over it. It is hard to tell from the crude drawings in those logging documents, but it looks like the pipe (which is slid over the chain) is about 2″ from the inside edge of the runners. I suppose to give the runner plenty of play. I could weld a ring on that pipe, but I fear that if I used it to secure the load as you described it would collapse the runners inward.

At this point, I am planning on bolting a ring to the center of the bunk securing the load as pictured in these two diagrams: Securing a Load of Logs
If you have a better way, please let me know.

Regarding you other comments, I do have the runners beveled at the back end and I think I am going to go for hardwood stakes. I have had problems bending stake pockets and braking stakes on my bobseld and scoot as large logs occasionally slam against them (especially in snowy conditions). This is going to be a lighter duty rig so wood stakes should be fine.

If you have any pics of your go-devil and how you chain your load, I would like to see them.

George

[Ed Thayer]

George,

I have used this wooden go devil with great success. I used 2″ flat bar for the shoes for runners. I have 2 bunks on mine and a steel evener connected to the single tree. Also a couple 1″ square stakes that are set in pockets. This may be much smaller then what you are describing. There is a single ring attached to the center of the bunk as you described in your design.

Ed

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[Does’ Leap]

Here is a link to some pictures of the finished (mostly) Go-Devil: Go-Devil Pics

Runners are 3.5″ (at the fat mid-section) made of yellow birch. They are about 40″ on the flat not including the sweep at either end. Runners are “full moccasin” as most of the logging I do is on snow. I plan on installing either 1.5 or 2″ flat-bar shoes eventually, but I want to see how it runs for a while before installing the shoes. Bunk is 3″x5″ ash, 3 feet long with welded stake pockets. One stake/skid is built to lock into the stake pocket via a steel plate bolted to the stake and equipped with welded anti-slip steel for rolling up logs. Bunk is secured to runners with a “scoot irons” – angle iron with 3/4″ threaded rod drilled and welded to the iron and bolted to the runner. Bunk is counter-sunk to accept the 3/4 inch rod and nuts. Logs will be secured with a 16’x 1/4″ chain attached to a clevis in the middle of the bunk. For now, I plan on using a chain binder. The Go-Devil is also equipped with light bridal chains to keep it from running up on the horses. Sled and gear weigh about 80 lbs.

I plan on getting it out today for a test-drive.

Happy New Year to all.

George

[Ron]

hi George
The front roller on our system was simply a way to keep the runners apart. The ring was welded on and simply allowed the chain to pass through it and a choker went around the log load. the pull therefore was on the logs or load but not on the ring. the ring on the roller was just nice way to steer the front of the runners. The roller as you have mentioned also allowed the front of the runners movement so that one could rise and fall some what independent of the other roller. In the bush this gives much needed stability something I felt that logging arches usually lack. I am in my sixties now and arthritis has slowed me up. I am breaking a pair of colts right now and hope to do some small scale skidding when I get them going. I would like to see your finished product I tried to open your pics above but could not make it work but as I am very challenged with a computer that is not surprising. Happy New Year and good logging
ron

[Mike Rock]

George, Picasa says, “Sorry, that page was not found.”.

[Does’ Leap]

Sorry, I had the settings configured to “private” in Picasa. Hopefully this works: Go-Devil Pics

If not, I will try to attach the pictures later, although I have had mixed luck with this.

Ron, I am still not picturing completely the chaining mechanism. I get the chain passing through the welded ring and then around the load. How are you securing the load to the bunk? Does the choker wrap around the bunk as well as the load or is the load chained separately on the bunk? I guess I could picture the chain going through the front ring, going through the ring on the bunk and then around the load. If that’s the case does your load ever loosen with the stop and go of the horses?

George

[Mike Rock]

Worked just fine, thank you!

Happy New Year to all of you.

[JJK]

If it works half as good as it looks you’re golden. What is the purpose of the rabbets?
Happy New year
Josh

[Ron]

Hi George
Your pictures look really good and this should work excellent. I do not chain to the bunk I let the choker chain pass under the bunk and then around the logs squeezing the logs on to the bunk. I make sure the logs are well on the bunk a good two or three feet and then put the choker behind the bunk the pull of the horses pulls the logs forward on the bunk and not back wards and propels logs and the go devil forward with ease. This also allows the logs to pivot on turns making the go devil much easier to steer by the horse. I can’t think of a time when it came off as long as the horse is moving steady forward. The drag from the log trailing the ground acts as a brake so that the load never goes to fast down an incline. The choker chain passing through the ring on the roller keeping up the slack. As the horse turns it pulls against the side of the ring pointing the go devil left or right. I have made the rings out of just about anything even old horse shoes as long as it allows the choker chain to pass with out binding. If it binds it will certainly pull the go devil out from under your load.
It is simple and works for me maybe it would not work for others. The go devil makes logging so much easier on horse and man. I build building on the farm using ash and elm for the frame from our bush using only one horse. The logs would have been a team job but with the go devil and a logging arch for really big logs I could not get up unto the go devil the work was all accomplished with one good horse and without abusing him.
Hope that makes some sense to you.
Ron

[Mike Rock]

Ron, a few photos of your chaining would sure help clear my mind up.

Thanks.
Mike

[Does’ Leap]

Hi Ron:

I finally understand. Thanks for the description. It is certainly easy to weld on a ring and I will give your system a try. If you can post some pictures, I would like to see your sled.

Josh, I bought my bobsled (think go-devil on steroids – used generally with a team) from as master sled-maker named Duane Langmaid. He taught me to hog out as much material from the runner as possible without weakening it. I bet I shed 20 lbs of wood by doing this – nothing for the horses but makes a difference to me moving the sled around trying to get it in an ideal position for loading. I also like the way it looks.

I yarded a few loads on Thursday with the go-devil. So far, I like it a lot. I also log with a bobsled and scoot – both great tools in their own right. Compared to those sleds, the go devil is much easier to load and maneuver. It is small enough (80 lbs) that I can put it right where I want it without using a peavey to muscle it around. Also, the top of the bunk in only 9″ from the ground. This makes it much easier to load compared to the two-horse sleds. Since their is no pole, it is easy to have the horse load larger logs since he can swing tight in front of the sled. I give him a little extra slack and he rolls it right on. Unloading is also easier – pull a stake and swing the horse in the opposite direction and you’re unloaded. Maybe one of these days I will get my son to take some video footage.

George

[Does’ Leap]

Mike, I took a few shots of the chaining set-up Rod described. Doesn’t quite show what I’d hoped. Basically the chain is wrapped around the load and secured with a choker like you would a log. It then passes under the bunk and through the ring in front of the sled (pictured) and that is what you hook your horse(s) to. I have a clevis behind the bunk that keeps the chain centered in back of the bunk.

Ron, the system works great. Much better than binding the load to the bunk. It is easier to chain, more secure (no having to check the load and tighten the binder after starting), and more convenient not having to carry around the binder. The sled also moves easily under the load. I like it so much that I am going to reconfigure the way I chain my scoot maybe even my bobsled (Carl?).

Overall the go-devil is working great. I have a decent hill going from my woodlot up to the farm and I have been loading the sled with that in mind. I have been slowly increasing the size of the load trying to get a sense of what a single horse can pull up that hill and have been surprised by the results. The bay on the right in “Go Devil 3” pulled that load pretty handily before lunch today. It is very convenient to block the wood right off the sled as it is mostly off the ground.

Great tool. Highly recommended.

George

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[wild millers]

Very nice work George. Thanks for sharing the pictures and ideas.

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