Harness Rivets?

[JaredWoodcock]

I am making some tugs and I dont like the rivets I got from the amish, They are brittle and tend to split. Is there any reason I shouldn’t use brass or copper rivets?

[Jay]

several of my older harness’ have copper rivits. I don’t know any reason not to use them. Jay

[Does’ Leap]

Where the front tug attaches to the steel D-ring clip, I use 20d nails. I punch through the tug, grind within a 1/4 inch of the steel plate, and peen them. Very rugged.

George

[Mark Cowdrey]

I use SS round head bolts, #8’s, I think.
Mark

[Ron]

I used copper rivets all the time to do harness repairs of all kinds until my box of rivets run dry. Now I can’t find them any where. I do agree with you the rivets that you can get now are frustratingly useless. My copper rivets held just fine did a good job for me.
If you got a source let me know please?
Cheers
Ron

[Rick Alger]

Like George, I’ve found shortened spikes work well. For copper rivets, I once got some from an ice hockey pro shop. They attach old-style boots to blades.

[JaredWoodcock]

Our Ace Hardware has some copper rivets but they are a little small for my needs, They had copper roofing nails which look like a good size for leather repair but still a little small for the metal brackets. I will probably use some nails for now and search for “nicer” rivets later.

George: What kind of bracket do you use to connect the tug to the d ring? I was planning on using the same kind that attach to the front hamebolt pivot.

[CanoeTomah]

MSC and Tandy leather both have a large supply of copper(other) rivets.
Tandy carries spots also

[Donn Hewes]

Jared, When you said the rivets where brittle and split I was wondering if they gave you hollow rivets or solid rivets. Lot’s of tack have hollow rivets in it, but this is NOT what you want for any important piece. The hollow rivet tool in the shop is very fast and is often used to hold something together until it is sewn.

The traditional solid copper rivet comes with a copper washer for general harness repair, and there is a special tool that drives the washer down over the rivet. For tug repair the harness shops also stock a slightly heavier (steel or copper) rivet that is built more like a nail. These work well with the metal strap as no washer is needed.

When I cut my tugs I was able to fit what had been the front end (no bracket, just sewn leather around a bolt) on to the D ring. the all-leather connection means it will conform to the ring’s curve a little. On the cut end I used a metal bracket or strap, that harness makers use and sell that had three holes in it for the solid rivets. This u shaped strap could easily be made at home, by bending 1/16? around a bolt. Then attach it to the end of the tug with enough room for the bolt sleeve. The bolt sleeve will now fit on the hames connection.

I believe Mid west leather also carries solid copper rivets. I have also used regular nails, but watch out for a weak nail head (also hardened nails) as the head may come off while peening. D

[JaredWoodcock]

The solid rivet I got from the amish were basically a small nail. They didnt crack horribly but they were brittle enough that 2 out of 3 would split a little. I ended up using some old nails that are made of nice maleable steel. I am building the tugs from scratch with some bio covered nylon that the amish sold me so I need to have a strap on both ends. I dont like the way that the 3 hole straps fit around the d ring and it seems like it may rub on the horse. This is a $20 experiment and eventually I would like to find someone who makes leather d ring tugs.

On a side note; It is funny how when I was welding my logging cart together I was concerned about strength and bracing, now I am putting the tugs together with 3 tiny rivets? I think my weak spots are in the harness.

[Will Stephens]

Midwest Leather (who advertises on this site) know the d-ring harness very well and would make just the leather tugs for you. I have had d-ring harness made to my numbers with help from them in Bio-thane and they are great,

[Jay]

I have made my own straps like Donn described out of a steel barrel end – just cut it into the shape I needed and drilled the holes. It bends easily enough yet seems pretty strong. I haven’t had any trouble with them being weak or even showing wear. I even made some with scalloped sides like the ones you can buy. Jay

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