Log Tongs

[Ed Thayer]

I apologize in advance if this has been hashed out allready.

What are the benifits of tongs as apposed to skid chains?

Preference or are they used in different situations?

[Tim Harrigan]

I like tongs because they provide a little more lift by pulling more from the center point of the log than with a chain that tends to let the log rotate so the pulling point is higher. And I do not have to fuss around to fish the chain under the log to hitch it.

[Ed Thayer]

Tim,

I was thinking the same thing. We were pulling wood that had been down since fall and the logs were tight to the ground.
the tongs would have worked great in that situation.

I never thought about the point of lift being different.

Ed

[Traveling Woodsman]

I totally agree with Tim, tongs are great ’cause you don’t have to dig around under the log, I use them regularly. I have never found that hundred dollar bill under a log! But they don’t have as much lift when used with an arch because you can’t hook as close to the log. And that’s just on a conventional top hitch, not even considering the extra lift you can get from a cradle hitch. So I have taken to using a combination system, if the chain doesn’t go under the log right away I slap the tongs on it and pull it out to a place where I can easily put a chain underneath. Then I put a chain with a full choker hook on it. This saves me the time and frustration of digging, but gives me maximum lift on most of the skid. I am a logger, not an excavator! But Tim is right that when ground skidding, tongs will give you a little bit of advantage. And tongs are also the fastest method for hooking and unhooking logs. I do like to use tongs in some situations when ground skidding.

Another tool for hooking to logs is the grab, also called a dog. The advantages this offers is that it will never come unhooked if there is ever slack in a chain, and is great for making a log train. More of a specialized tool, but when you need them they are really nice. So I actually keep tongs, chains, and grabs on my arch when I’m skidding. It’s not a matter of which method is the best, but of having an understanding of all the different methods and knowing when and how to apply them to maximum efficiency. And too, when ground skidding you may not find it worth it to drag around several chains, a set of grabs and tongs to every single log that you skid. Just another of the many advantages to using an arch. Of course this is more of a concern to professionals, part-time practitioners may not find it advantageous to keep lots of gear like this around.

And then there is the cable choker, which I have never seen an advantage to using in a horse operation. I have one that I have used once or twice, just concluded that they were intended for a choker setup on a skidder.

Looks like I broadened the discussion…..

[Gabe Ayers]

Skidding tongs have a swivel on the hook and will let a log roll around on whatever face it wants. They do come loose and they are a subtle thing to hook. But dealing with logs flat on the ground they save allot of time. When the logs are laying on rock there is no excavating. A combination of all the tools is great. Attention to the details of felling and putting a helper or small piece of round wood under the log when possible makes excavation easier or not required.

Good Discussion.
~

[Carl Russell]

I have taken to only using tongs on the landing, or short hauling to a skid trail. This because I have found that they are not as honest as a good choker chain.

In other words, as easy as they are to hook, I cannot excuse the errant let-go. I have a choker puller that I keep on my cart, or hooked in the ring on the hames when ground skidding, for pulling chain through under the tight ones.

I also have found that I cannot hook as close to the evener with tongs as I can with choker and bitch link, but it really comes down to the security of the chain for me.

Carl

[mitchmaine]

anyone ever use tongs to deck logs on the landing? can be tricky. you have to make sure the log is set in the pile before you let it loose. we’d choose a good tree and set blocks ten feet from the ground and deck with the team. you can make a pretty neat pile without too much work. but it is also very dangerous. if a log gets going from the top of the pile, it don’t stop till it hits something. use a long rope and don’t go more than three high, should be ok.

[Ed Thayer]

I read the term cradle hitch, What exactly is that? For arches only?

I have been using chokers only, but was frustrated with the ground logs and trying to get the choker under as explained earlier. Another benifit to the chain is I can hook a log farther away that may be difficult for the horse to back up to. When pulled to the skid trail, reset and off I go.

I think a set of tongs are in my near future. I do really like the security of the choker especially when pulling two poles together, helps keep the logs from rolling around.

[Gabe Ayers]

The cradle hitch is for an arch only, as far as I know. I think it was developed to provide lift on a log that may be taller than the slot bar on the arch and in some cases wider than the wheel base/track. I learned it from an old Yankee logger.

It is a matter of putting two chokers around the log with the chokers at the bottom or as we describe it, when looking at the end of the log you are hooking to as a clock – that’s a real clock with hands and numbers, not a digital clock… put one choker at 5:00 and the other at 7:00 and then put your chains in the outside or widest slots in the slot bar and when the team moves forward the log gets good front end suspension, doesn’t dig in, doesn’t pull as hard, disturb the ground as much and allows your animals to apply there power to move the wood with less effort.

This of course requires getting the choker chains under the log which may mean moving it a bit to get some clearance under the log. Another point is the orientation of the choker to the chain. You have to have the chain running through the choker such that it will choke and not slip or slide around the log but actually choke and tighten so as to stay in place and lift. This may not be a good description, I’m not sure how to say it better.
Put the choker pointing up and the chain around the log and through and then up to the slot so it chokes and tightens when the team moves forward. The choker hook goes under the log first and the chain goes over and around the log through the choker and back up to the slot. Sometimes we use a choker on one side and a slot hook on the other, but that is not as stable, but will provide the same lift if it stays in place when tightened up. Hope this makes some sense.

This forms a cradle which lifts the end of the log when hooking from either end. It helps deal with the flare on the butt cuts. It gives the option of providing front end suspension from the little or big end.

I guess we should post some photos of this arrangement, which fortunately we use often when we are working in good sized timber.

Let us know if this makes any sense, it is a useful way of attaching big logs to the arch and getting good suspension. Ben Traveling Woodsman may add to this description in his own words.

~

[grey]

What’s the difference, Joel? Are they different designs or different gauge or both or what?

[dominiquer60]

Jason,
I think that I was paying attention that day in the woods, is this the cradle hitch that you are talking about?

Erika

[grey]

The points on my tongs face each other, so I guess they are skid tongs. What do load tongs look like? Do they point inward/backward toward the ring?

[Gabe Ayers]

Skidding tongs have a swivel on the hook, lifting/loading tongs don’t

Erika, that is a cradle hitch, good eye and photo – thanks

~

[Author]

Posts